A door that won’t latch usually needs hinge tightening, strike plate adjustment, or latch lubrication and alignment.
If a door refuses to stay closed, don’t force it. A few small checks will tell you whether the problem is sag on the hinge side, a strike plate that’s off by a hair, a sticky latch, or seasonal swelling. This guide gives you fast tests, clear fixes, and practical tips that work for interior and exterior doors.
Fast Diagnosis Before You Grab Tools
Run these quick checks in order. Most latch troubles reveal themselves in minutes.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Quick Check |
|---|---|---|
| Latch hits above/below hole | Door sag or frame shift | Watch latch height against strike while closing |
| Latch hits face of plate | Plate too far outward | Sticker test: add tape on latch, close, read the mark |
| Latch enters but pops out | Deadlatch misaligned | Deadlatch plunger should ride on plate face, not inside |
| Latch doesn’t spring | Gummed mechanism | Press latch bolt with a finger; feel for smooth spring return |
| Door rubs jamb | Warp or humidity swell | Shine a light along the reveal; look for tight spots |
Tighten And Set The Hinges First
Loose hinge screws drop the handle side, lifting the latch out of alignment. Start by driving all hinge screws snug. If a screw spins, back it out and replace with a longer one that bites the framing. Many pros use one 3-inch screw in the top hinge to pull the door toward the jamb and raise the latch height back into the strike.
Longer screws are a classic fix from carpentry veterans. Keep the leafs flush and the gaps even as you tighten so you don’t twist the slab. If holes are chewed up, pack them with wood fibers and glue, then re-drive. Drive by hand to feel when the threads bite firmly.
Confirm Latch Height And Move The Strike Smartly
Close the door slowly and watch where the latch contacts the strike. If it hits the top edge, the door sits low; if it hits low, the door sits high. After hinge correction, small errors can be solved at the plate. Loosen the screws and nudge the plate toward the latch, or slightly up or down. If the mortise won’t allow movement, file the inside edge of the opening to give the latch a clean path—filing the strike plate opening is a fast fix for tiny gaps. Light filing preserves the plate and avoids moving the mortise.
When relocating the plate, plug old screw holes with dowels or matchsticks and glue so new screws bite. Keep the lip of the plate flush with the jamb surface; a recessed plate forces the latch to scrape and bounce back.
Understand The Deadlatch Plunger
Modern locks have a small secondary plunger next to the latch bolt. That plunger should sit on the flat face of the strike plate when the door is shut. If it slips into the hole with the main bolt, the deadlatch won’t do its job and the door may seem closed yet open with a tug. Adjust the plate so the small plunger rides on the face, and the main bolt lands squarely in the hole.
If the small plunger binds, the handle can feel sticky or the latch won’t project fully. Realign the plate and verify the backset matches the bore so the latch retracts cleanly. For reference, lock makers explain how the deadlatch plunger should sit against the strike.
Lubricate The Latch The Right Way
Sticky movement often comes from dust and old oil. Spray a silicone or dry-film lubricant into the latch bolt and work the handle twenty times. Avoid petroleum grease in locksets; it attracts grit. After lubing, wipe the bolt and try again. If the latch still drags, remove it and clean the casing, then reinstall with the face flush to the edge of the door.
Account For Seasonal Wood Movement
Wood swells in humid months and shrinks in dry months. If the slab rubs the jamb near the latch, your fixes should reduce friction first: correct hinge sag, ease the strike, and only then consider trimming. If trimming is needed, mark where the rub occurs, remove the door, plane the tight area with a slight bevel, sand, seal the fresh edge, and rehang. Aim for an even 1/8-inch reveal around the slab.
Clear, Safe Step-By-Step Fix
Step 1: Map Contact Points
Stick a bit of painter’s tape on the latch face, close the door to transfer a witness mark, then read where it struck. This tells you whether to lift, lower, or move the plate in or out.
Step 2: Tighten And Correct Hinge Alignment
Snug all hinge screws. If the latch sits high or low by more than a sliver, set one long screw through the top hinge into the stud to pull the slab toward the hinge side. Recheck the reveal and the latch height against the strike.
Step 3: Adjust Or File The Strike
Loosen the screws and nudge the plate in the needed direction. If you only need a fraction, file the opening instead. Remove sharp burrs so the bolt doesn’t hang up. Keep edges smooth and the lip flush to the jamb.
Step 4: Set The Deadlatch Position
Close the door and confirm the small plunger rides on the plate face. If it dips into the cavity, shift the plate outward a touch or widen the opening only on the side that blocks the main bolt.
Step 5: Lube And Test
Use a dry-film or silicone spray at the latch. Cycle the handle. The bolt should project fully and spring back without delay. If the action still feels rough, remove the latch, clean lint and debris, and reinstall with the faceplate flush.
Step 6: Trim Wood Only As A Last Resort
If rub remains, mark the tight area, pull the pins, and take the slab to trestles. Plane lightly, keep a slight 2-degree bevel on the latch side, sand smooth, seal the raw edge, and rehang. Check the reveal again.
Common Scenarios And Proven Fixes
Handle Turns But Bolt Won’t Extend
The latch case may be misseated or the backset is set wrong for the bore. Pull the latch and verify the backset matches the distance from the door edge to the bore center. Reseat the latch so the faceplate sits flush and the bolt throws fully.
Lined Up Yesterday, Off Today
That points to a loose top hinge or movement in the framing. Drive a long screw through the top hinge into the stud to pull the door back into square. Recheck the strike engagement after the adjustment.
Clicks But Pops Open
That’s classic deadlatch misalignment. The small plunger is falling into the cavity. Shift the plate outward so the plunger rides the face, and verify the bolt lands deep enough to resist a pull.
Tools And Supplies You’ll Actually Use
- No. 2 screwdriver, drill/driver, and a long 3-inch screw
- Half-round file and small chisel
- Painter’s tape and pencil
- Dry-film or silicone spray lube
- Hand plane, sandpaper, and finish for edges
Fix Methods, When They Apply, And Time
| Fix | When To Use | Tools & Time |
|---|---|---|
| Tighten/replace hinge screws | Latch hits top or bottom of plate | Driver + long screw, 5–10 min |
| Nudge or file strike | Latch misses hole by a sliver | File + screwdriver, 5–15 min |
| Relocate strike plate | Latch misaligned by more than 1/8 in. | Chisel + drill, 20–30 min |
| Realign deadlatch | Door “catches” then opens | Screwdriver + test fits, 10 min |
| Clean and lube latch | Sticky or slow return | Spray lube, 5 min |
| Plane latch side | Persistent rub from swell/warp | Plane + sand + finish, 40–60 min |
When To Call A Pro
If the door frame is split, the slab is badly warped, or a multipoint lock is acting up, bring in a carpenter or locksmith. Those cases need new parts, specialized alignment, or both. For standard passage and entry sets, the steps above usually restore a crisp, reliable click in under an hour.