TV volume trouble usually comes from mute, CEC/ARC conflicts, wrong audio output, or a bad connection—work through the checks below in order.
Nothing kills movie night faster than a silent screen. The good news: most sound problems trace back to a handful of settings or cables. This guide walks you through fast checks first, then deeper fixes for soundbars, game consoles, streaming sticks, and set-top boxes. Follow the steps in order; you’ll narrow the cause in minutes.
TV Volume Not Working — Common Causes And Quick Checks
Start with the basics. Mute toggles, volume limits, and the wrong speaker output can mask a simple fix as a bigger fault. Run this triage before changing advanced settings or resetting gear.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Quick Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Volume bar moves but no sound | Audio output set to soundbar/receiver that’s off | Select TV Speakers; then test external output again |
| No sound from streaming apps | ARC/eARC handshake stuck; CEC glitch | Power-cycle TV and soundbar; reseat ARC/eARC HDMI |
| Sound on one source only | Wrong audio format on that device | Switch device to PCM/Stereo and test |
| Remote changes volume but level never rises | Night mode/volume limit or fixed audio output | Turn off night/leveling; set output to Variable |
| Soundbar loud, TV apps silent | App using bitstream the bar can’t decode | Set TV Digital Output to PCM or compatible format |
| Bluetooth headphones connected | TV routing audio to paired device | Disconnect Bluetooth; pick TV Speakers |
| Set-top box works, console silent | CEC input switching or device audio mismatch | Disable CEC on that device or align formats |
| Intermittent sound drops | Weak HDMI cable; ARC/eARC bandwidth issue | Use certified High Speed/Ultra High Speed HDMI |
| No audio after update | Settings reset; ARC disabled | Re-enable ARC/eARC and CEC; reselect speakers |
Rule Out The Easy Stuff First
Confirm The Output You’re Using
Open your TV’s sound settings and check the active output. Pick TV Speakers and test. If you hear audio now, the external path (soundbar or receiver) needs attention. Switch back to Receiver/Soundbar (ARC/eARC) only after you’ve confirmed those devices are on and the ARC/eARC HDMI port is used.
Power-Cycle To Clear A Handshake Lock
Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) and ARC/eARC rely on device handshakes over HDMI. When these hang, volume and audio can fail. Turn off the TV and every HDMI device. Unplug power for 60 seconds. Plug in the TV first, then the soundbar/receiver, then other sources. This restart sequence often restores control and audio (Sony documents similar steps for clearing a CEC lockup). Sony CEC reset steps.
Try A Different Audio Format
If you’re using built-in TV speakers, set Digital Output to PCM. PCM is uncompressed and widely compatible. With soundbars or AVRs, bitstream formats can work, but mismatches mute audio. If sound returns on PCM, your bar or receiver isn’t decoding that app’s bitstream track. For reference on ARC/eARC audio paths and format handling, see the official HDMI eARC overview and Dolby’s explainer on ARC and eARC.
Fixes For Popular Setups
TV Only (No Soundbar Or Receiver)
- Pick TV Speakers and raise volume above 20.
- Turn off mute, night mode, and any volume limit.
- Set Digital Output to PCM; turn off surround virtualization.
- Remove Bluetooth headphones; disconnect any paired earbuds.
- Reboot the TV and install the latest firmware.
Major brands publish identical steps: check output selection, reboot, update, then reset if needed. See Samsung’s guide to no-sound checks and resets for a model-agnostic flow: Samsung sound troubleshooting. LG’s help library also points to speaker selection, volume, and reset steps: LG no audio guide.
TV With Soundbar Or AVR Over ARC/eARC
This link is powerful because it carries audio back from TV apps to your speaker system. It also ties volume control to CEC. If either side misreads the connection, you get silence.
- Move the HDMI cable to the TV port labeled ARC or eARC.
- Use a certified High Speed (for ARC) or Ultra High Speed (for eARC) HDMI cable.
- Enable ARC/eARC and the brand’s CEC name (Anynet+, Bravia Sync, Simplink, etc.).
- In TV audio settings, set output to Receiver/Soundbar.
- On the bar/AVR, choose the TV/ARC input; disable TV speakers.
- If apps are silent but HDMI devices play fine, set TV Digital Output to PCM and test.
If the bar or receiver still won’t play TV-app audio, toggle eARC to ARC temporarily; some bars accept ARC only. Then test a known-good app. If it works on ARC but not on eARC, the issue is bandwidth or format support; stick to ARC or update firmware on both ends.
Streaming Sticks And Consoles
Remotes that change volume through the TV sometimes rely on CEC, sometimes on infrared (IR). If volume keys do nothing, the stick may be using the wrong control method, or the TV isn’t passing CEC volume to the bar/receiver. Re-run the stick’s remote setup, pick your TV or audio brand, and test IR control from one meter away with line of sight.
- On a streaming box, set Audio to PCM/Stereo to test; multi-channel bitstreams can mute on older bars.
- Disable secondary audio descriptions and dialog enhancement if the mix sounds uneven.
- If CEC causes odd input switching or broken volume, turn off the device’s CEC features and rely on the TV remote.
Pinpoint The Fault With Simple Tests
Test Each Link In The Chain
Play a sample video on the TV’s built-in app, then the same clip through a connected device. If the TV app is silent but the device works through ARC, the TV’s app/format path is the issue. If both are silent with the bar on, the ARC link or bar is the suspect. Swap in a short certified HDMI cable and test again.
Force A Clean Handshake
Unplug all HDMI devices. Boot the TV alone. Turn on the soundbar/receiver next and wait for the ARC/eARC indicator. Then connect one source at a time. This staged power-up clears many CEC lockups, a remedy mirrored in vendor support articles for HDMI control resets.
Try Format And Mode Tweaks
- PCM vs Bitstream: PCM is the safest choice for TVs and older bars. If PCM restores audio, leave it there or pick a supported bitstream only when needed.
- Variable vs Fixed: If audio goes to a receiver via analog or optical, set the TV or source to Variable so the remote affects volume. Fixed ignores the volume keys.
- ARC vs eARC: eARC handles high-bandwidth formats, but both must support it. If eARC is flaky, use ARC until a firmware update arrives.
For a clear, vendor-neutral primer on the return-audio link, review the official standards overview: HDMI eARC. Dolby’s page also outlines what ARC/eARC can carry and when a higher-bandwidth path helps: ARC vs eARC explained.
Brand Terms And Where To Find The Right Settings
Menu names vary, but the same ideas repeat: output selection, digital format, and CEC/ARC toggles. Use this cheat sheet to translate the labels you see on screen.
| Brand | Menu Terms You’ll See | Where To Change Output |
|---|---|---|
| Samsung | Anynet+ (CEC), HDMI ARC/eARC, TV Speaker, Receiver | Settings → Sound → Sound Output; Settings → Connection → External Device Manager |
| Sony | Bravia Sync (CEC), eARC Mode, Digital Audio Out, Pass Through | Settings → Channels & Inputs/Watching TV → External Inputs → Bravia Sync; Settings → Sound |
| LG | Simplink (CEC), eARC, Digital Sound Out, Sound Out | Settings → Sound → Sound Out; Settings → Connection → Device Connection Settings |
| TCL/Hisense (Google/Fire/Roku) | CEC, ARC/eARC, Auto, PCM/Stereo | Settings → Audio → Speakers/Sound Output; Settings → System → CEC |
| Soundbars/AVRs | TV ARC/eARC Input, CEC Control, Audio Format | Input labeled TV/ARC; enable CEC; match TV digital output |
Remote Volume Still Does Nothing?
If the TV plays audio through its own speakers, but the remote won’t change volume on your bar or receiver, the control path is the issue, not the audio path. Two options exist: CEC-based volume or IR volume codes.
- CEC Volume: Works through the HDMI cable. If it’s unreliable, disable CEC on the source device and let the TV remote control volume instead.
- IR Volume: Many streaming boxes can learn IR codes for your TV or bar. Re-run the device’s “control your TV” setup and pick the correct brand.
Some streamers and set-top boxes send IR for volume by design when talking to a TV; they don’t always pass CEC volume through to the panel. If volume keys work only at certain angles, it’s IR and needs line of sight.
When TV Apps Are Silent But HDMI Devices Are Fine
This usually means the TV’s app is outputting a format your bar or receiver won’t decode, or the return-audio link is down. Flip the TV’s digital output to PCM and test a built-in app. If that fixes it, leave PCM set or choose a supported bitstream on the bar. If not, re-enable ARC/eARC, reseat the HDMI cable in the ARC/eARC port, and power-cycle both units.
Fix Sound Drops And Volume Swings
Audio that fades or cuts out points to bandwidth or processing. Swap in a short certified HDMI cable. Turn off sound effects like virtual surround and auto leveling while testing. On streaming boxes, disable “Dolby Digital Plus” if your bar is older; PCM will be steadier. Once audio is stable, re-enable enhancements one by one.
When To Reset, Update, Or Call Service
Software Reset And Updates
If you’ve restored sound to TV speakers but not to ARC/eARC, update firmware on the TV and bar/receiver. Vendors regularly post fixes for ARC timing and CEC control. After updates, repeat the handshake reset routine and retest each source.
Factory Reset As A Last Resort
If menus or apps crash and audio settings won’t stick, a factory reset can clear corrupted data. Back up app logins first. After reset, test audio before installing extras. If sound returns only until devices are reconnected, a specific HDMI device is causing the conflict; connect it last and check its audio format and CEC settings.
Suspect Hardware Faults
- No sound from TV speakers even on a factory reset with no devices attached points to an internal amplifier or mainboard issue.
- ARC/eARC works only when cables are held still suggests a worn HDMI jack; inspect for a loose port.
- Buzzing or one-channel output on every source can indicate a speaker failure on the panel.
A Clean, Repeatable Troubleshooting Flow
- Local Test: Select TV Speakers. Play a built-in app. If silent, set Digital Output to PCM and raise volume.
- Handshake Reset: Power-cycle TV → soundbar/receiver → sources, in that order. Use the ARC/eARC port with a certified cable.
- Format Proof: Try PCM on TV and on each source. If audio returns, the previous format wasn’t supported.
- Control Path: If audio plays but volume keys fail, choose IR control on the streamer or use the TV remote to drive the bar via CEC.
- Isolation: Add devices one by one. The moment sound fails, adjust that device’s CEC and audio settings.
- Update/Reset: Install firmware updates. If issues persist, factory reset the TV and test again before restoring apps.
Final Checks Before You Call For Repair
Run the TV’s sound self-test if available. Try an analog headphones jack if your model has one; hearing audio there confirms the source app works and narrows the fault to the main speakers or amplifier. If TV speakers pass but ARC is dead across every app and device with multiple cables tested, the ARC transceiver may be failing. In that case, use optical as an interim path or connect sources directly to the receiver and pass video to the TV while you schedule service.
Quick Takeaways You Can Save
- Pick the right output first; test with TV Speakers, then move to ARC/eARC.
- Clear HDMI control glitches with a staged power-cycle.
- Use PCM to prove the path; switch to bitstream only when the gear supports it.
- Keep one small, certified HDMI cable handy for diagnostics.
- Update firmware on both TV and sound system before a factory reset.