A gas oven that won’t light usually points to a weak igniter, blocked gas flow, or a control hiccup—start with safety and a simple power check.
Nothing stalls dinner like a silent, cold oven. The good news: most no-light cases trace to a handful of predictable culprits. With a calm approach and a few checks, you can separate quick fixes from jobs that need a technician. This guide keeps it clear, safe, and practical.
Gas Oven Not Lighting: Quick Checks
Run through these fast checks before grabbing tools. Many “won’t light” calls end right here.
- Sniff the room. Notice that sulfur “rotten-egg” odor? Back out, call for help, and skip troubleshooting.
- Confirm power. Display on? Interior light on? Tripped breaker or unplugged cord stops ignition logic.
- Set to Bake, not Delay. A timed start, child lock, or Sabbath mode can block a normal bake.
- Look through the window. Do you see a glowing bar or hear click-click sparks when Bake starts?
- Check cooktop burners. If they light, gas supply is present, so focus on the oven section.
Common Symptoms At A Glance
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Quick Check |
|---|---|---|
| No glow and no click | No power or control lock | Reset breaker, disable locks, verify outlet |
| Glow bar glows, no flame | Weak igniter or closed safety valve | Listen for gas whoosh; if none, suspect igniter |
| Rapid clicking, no flame | Spark igniter dirty or misaligned | Clean burner ports and igniter tip |
| Broiler lights, bake dead | Separate bake igniter failed | Test bake side only |
| Lights then goes out | Poor flame sense or airflow | Clear ports; confirm steady blue flame |
Safety First, Always
If you smell gas, step outside and call emergency services. Natural gas is odorized so the leak smell is obvious; leave doors open and skip switches. The PHMSA emergency steps spell out the do’s and don’ts in plain terms.
Gas ovens also produce carbon monoxide if they burn poorly. A working CO alarm is non-negotiable. The CDC overview on CO explains warning signs and prevention.
How The Ignition System Works
Modern ranges use either a hot-surface glow bar or a spark system. The glow bar draws current through the safety valve; when it reaches the right temperature, the valve opens and the burner lights. Spark systems click to ignite a small gas stream and verify flame. Both designs watch for flame quality and shut down if things look off.
Knowing which type you have guides the plan. If you see a ceramic bar glowing orange, that’s a glow-bar design. If you hear rhythmic clicking and see a small spark near the burner, that’s a spark system.
Step-By-Step: Track Down The No-Light
What You Need Nearby
Owner’s manual, flashlight, a small brush, a Phillips screwdriver, and heat-safe gloves. Keep your phone ready to record a short clip of the startup sequence; that clip helps a tech if you call later.
Step 1: Confirm Power And Clock
Ignition logic needs steady power. Make sure the plug is seated and the breaker is on. Set the clock. Some controls refuse to bake if time isn’t set.
Step 2: Verify Gas Supply And Valves
Check the manual shutoff valve behind the range. Handle parallel with the pipe means open. If the cooktop lights but the oven doesn’t, supply is present and the fault sits downstream.
Step 3: Watch And Listen At Start
Start Bake at a modest temperature. Through the window, look for a glow within 30–60 seconds on glow-bar models. On spark models, expect a quick burst of clicks. No activity points back to the control, wiring, fuse, or a door switch that thinks the door is open.
Step 4: Clean Burners, Ports, And Igniter
Food drips and cleaners can choke the burner rail and ports. Remove oven racks and the bottom panel to expose the burner. With the gas off, brush carbon from ports and the igniter tip. Avoid soaking a glow bar; it’s fragile. Refit parts, relight, and watch the flame shape. You want a steady, mostly blue flame with short, tight tips.
Step 5: Judge A Glow-Bar Igniter
A tired igniter can glow yet fail to draw enough current to open the valve. That’s the classic “glows but no flame” case. If the bar looks dull, takes a long time to light, or the flame never appears, the igniter is suspect. Replacement cures many ovens that stayed cold for weeks.
Step 6: Look At The Safety Valve And Regulator
The safety valve opens only when the igniter pulls the right load. If a new igniter still won’t bring a flame, wiring or the valve may be open. A regulator stuck in bypass can also starve the burner. These checks call for meters and leak testing, so many cooks choose a service visit here.
Step 7: Sensor Or Thermostat Clues
If you see brief flame that shuts off early, a sensor that reads wildly off might be cutting heat. A failed sensor tends to throw an error code, but not always. If preheat crawls and never holds temp, compare set temp to a standalone oven thermometer to confirm drift.
Step 8: Control Resets And Error Codes
Power cycle the range for one minute, then restore. Clear delayed start, Sabbath mode, or child locks. If the display shows a fault code, note it and look up the maker’s chart. Some codes flag a stuck relay, others point to a failed sensor or valve circuit.
Pilot Light Models Still Around?
Older ovens may use a standing pilot. If the pilot is out, follow the placard steps to relight, or call for service if the flame won’t stay. Drafts and clogged pilot orifices are common causes. A clean, stable pilot should touch the thermocouple tip; if not, the main burner may never light.
When The Broiler Works But Bake Won’t
Many ranges run separate bake and broil igniters. If broil roars to life yet bake stays silent, test the bake igniter and wiring. On some models, the control feeds broil during preheat, then hands off to bake. If preheat stalls at a low number and never climbs, the bake side isn’t joining the party.
Troubleshooting Tests Cheat Sheet
These quick reads help you decide the next move without deep dives.
| Test | What You See | What It Means |
|---|---|---|
| Start Bake, watch 60s | No glow, no click | Control, power, or door switch issue |
| Glow but no flame | Orange bar, no whoosh | Weak igniter, valve never opened |
| Clicking, no flame | Spark visible | Dirty ports or misaligned igniter |
| Flame then drop-out | Blue flame quits | Poor flame sense or airflow |
| Broil heats, bake cold | Top burner only | Bake igniter or wiring open |
Care Tips That Prevent No-Light Moments
Keep Ports And Rails Clear
Wipe spills soon after the oven cools. Once a month, lift the lower panel and brush crumbs from the burner rail. Clogged ports bend flames away from the sensor and cause shutoffs.
Protect The Igniter
Skip wet cleaners on the ceramic bar. A gentle dry brush works. Bumps crack the element; treat that part like glass.
Watch Your Pans
Oversized sheets can block airflow at the rear. Leave space around pans so the flame carries heat evenly across the cavity.
Check The Door Seal
A torn gasket leaks heat, drags out preheat, and can confuse controls. Replace a brittle seal before bake season.
Mind The Vent
Keep the range vent path open. Stack nothing on top that could block the exit. Good venting helps stable flame and happy sensors.
DIY Or Call A Technician?
Basic cleaning and control resets are fair game for many homes. Replacing a glow-bar igniter is also within reach for steady hands that follow the manual and kill power and gas first. Valve, regulator, and wiring faults are different: leaks and miswires carry risk, so a licensed tech earns the call.
What To Have Ready Before Service
Gather the model number from the frame behind the door, any fault codes, and a summary of what you see and hear at start. Note if cooktop burners work and whether broil heats. Clear space around the range so panels come off fast. These small steps save time and return you to cooking sooner.
Quick Recap You Can Trust
Most gas ovens that won’t light come down to an aging igniter, a blocked burner, or a control setting that paused bake. Start safe, confirm power and gas, clean the burner and igniter, and watch what happens during the first minute. If the bar glows without flame, replace it. If nothing happens at all, plan on control, switch, or wiring checks. When in doubt, pause and bring in a pro.