A tripped breaker, no line power, a downstream fault, or a failed device are the most common reasons a GFCI receptacle won’t reset.
Pressed RESET and nothing happens? Or the button pops back out? A ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) cuts power the instant it sees leakage to ground. That fast trip can save a life. When a GFCI won’t reset, either the device sees a fault, it has no power, or the unit is broken.
Quick Safety Checks Before You Touch Anything
- Dry hands. Stand on a dry floor. Don’t work in standing water.
- Switch off the circuit breaker before pulling a device from the box.
- Use a plug-in lamp or a non-contact tester to verify power status.
- If you smell burning or see scorched plastic, stop and replace the device.
Common Reasons A GFCI Won’t Reset
Most no-reset cases fall into a short list. Match your symptom to the likely cause and a quick action.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | What To Try |
|---|---|---|
| RESET won’t click in | No line power or open neutral | Check breaker; test for 120 V on LINE hot and neutral |
| RESET clicks, then pops | Ground fault on LOAD side | Disconnect LOAD; test again; inspect downstream outlets |
| No indicator light | No power or failed device | Verify power at LINE; replace if powered but dark |
| TEST button does nothing | Miswire or defective unit | Confirm LINE vs LOAD; replace if correctly wired |
| Breaker trips when resetting | Short, shared neutral issue, or overload | Isolate loads; check for shared neutrals; inspect cords |
| Works until appliance is plugged | Appliance leakage or water intrusion | Dry boxes; test appliance on non-GFCI; repair or replace |
GFCI Outlet Won’t Reset: Step-By-Step Fixes
Move in order. Each step rules out a common cause. You’ll either restore service or learn what needs replacement.
Step 1: Confirm Power At The Circuit
Open the panel and look for a tripped breaker. Some breakers sit between positions. Flip it fully OFF, then back ON. At the receptacle, test the LINE terminals. You should read about 120 volts hot-to-neutral and hot-to-ground. Zero volts means the GFCI cannot reset because it lacks supply.
Step 2: Check For An Upstream GFCI
Kitchens, bathrooms, garages, exteriors, and basements are often chained. An upstream GFCI or a GFCI breaker may be tripped. Press TEST, then RESET on any GFCI on the same branch. If upstream protection is tripped, the downstream device will appear dead until the feed returns. The basics are outlined by the Electrical Safety Foundation International.
Step 3: Reset The Right Way
With power present, press the TEST button. The reset button should pop. Now press RESET firmly until it clicks and stays in. Some need more force. If the button will not latch even with no load plugged in, continue below.
Step 4: Verify LINE And LOAD
Pull the receptacle with the breaker OFF. Two labeled pairs sit on the back: LINE (incoming feed) and LOAD (outgoing protected feed). If the incoming hot and neutral land on LOAD, the device stays locked out. Move the feed to LINE. Cap off LOAD for now. Restore power and try RESET again.
Step 5: Isolate The Downstream Run
With LOAD capped, the device only feeds itself. If it now resets, the fault lives downstream. Inspect each outlet on that run. Look for damp boxes, nicked cords, and exterior covers left open. A wet outdoor box can trip the source GFCI even after it dries. The CPSC GFCI brief offers placement and safety pointers.
Step 6: Check Neutrals And Shared Circuits
A GFCI compares current on hot and neutral. If a downstream neutral ties into another circuit, the device sees imbalance and trips or refuses to reset. Open each box in the chain with power off. Keep neutrals from other circuits out of the protected neutral bundle. Use pigtails so each device sees a single neutral path.
Step 7: Look For Appliance Leakage
Plug a lamp into the GFCI. If the GFCI resets and the lamp stays lit, try each appliance one at a time. Heaters, fridges, and outdoor tools often have small leakage. That is enough to trip protection. Service or replace the leaky item. Avoid cheater plugs or defeating the device.
Step 8: Replace A Failed GFCI
Devices age. Surges and repeated trips wear contacts and sensors. If you have line power, correct wiring, and no load, yet the unit won’t reset, replace it. Choose a UL-listed model sized for the box. Tighten terminals to spec and fold conductors neatly so the device seats without strain.
Tell-Tale Button Behaviors And Meanings
The RESET and TEST buttons tell a story. Use the table to read that story and pick the next move.
| Button State | Meaning | Next Step |
|---|---|---|
| RESET won’t latch | No line power, miswire, or internal failure | Verify 120 V on LINE; move feed to LINE; replace if needed |
| TEST does nothing | Wrong wiring or failed unit | Confirm hot/neutral on LINE; swap device |
| RESET holds, trips with load | Downstream fault or leaky appliance | Disconnect LOAD; test items one by one |
| Indicator red or blinking | End-of-life or trip memory | Check brand manual; replace if end-of-life |
| Breaker trips on reset | Short or shared neutral | Inspect wiring; separate neutrals; repair short |
Wiring Tips That Prevent Repeat Trips
Keep Line And Load Straight
Mark the feed cable before you remove any screws. Tape the sheath or tag the pair. Land the feed on LINE every time. Use LOAD only when you must protect downstream outlets.
Bonding And Grounding
Install a grounding pigtail to the metal box if required. Tighten the green screw on the device. A solid equipment ground gives reliable test results and better safety.
Neat Boxes, Solid Splices
Use wirenuts sized for the bundle. Tug each splice. Fold the conductors along the sides of the box, not crushed behind the device. A cramped box can pinch insulation and create faults that show up as random trips.
Right Device, Right Location
Use WR-rated (weather-resistant) GFCIs outdoors. Use TR (tamper-resistant) where kids are present. Damp or wet sites need an in-use weather hood and a gasket. Kitchens and baths need protection within typical counter and sink zones.
Tools And Simple Tests
- Plug-in outlet tester: quick polarity and GFCI trip test.
- Non-contact voltage tester: fast live check.
- Digital multimeter: verify 120 V; check continuity with power off.
- Flashlight, screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, wire strippers, wirenuts, tape.
Code And Location Rules In Brief
GFCI protection is required in many spots: bathrooms, kitchens, laundry areas, garages, unfinished basements, outdoors, and near sinks. Many homes also use GFCI breakers for entire branches. Local code sets the list and distances. When you replace a standard receptacle in any of these locations, upgrading to a GFCI or protecting that spot from a GFCI upstream adds safety. Check local amendments before work begins. Permits vary.
When To Stop And Hire A Pro
Bring in a licensed electrician if any of these pop up: repeated trips with no load, evidence of moisture inside the box, aluminum branch wiring, shared neutrals you can’t sort out, a breaker that trips the moment you touch RESET, or burned insulation. A trained eye can test insulation resistance, find hidden splices, and correct service issues beyond the receptacle.
Checklist You Can Save
- Reset the breaker; confirm line power at the GFCI.
- Find and reset any upstream GFCI or GFCI breaker.
- Press TEST, then press RESET until it clicks.
- Open the box; move the feed to LINE; cap LOAD.
- If it now resets, track the downstream fault before reconnecting LOAD.
- Separate neutrals from other circuits; add pigtails where needed.
- Test each appliance for leakage; repair or replace leaky items.
- Replace the GFCI if powered, wired right, unloaded, and still no reset.
- Use WR/TR devices and proper weather hoods for the location.
- Call a licensed electrician for persistent trips, damage, or unclear wiring.