If a golf cart won’t move, start with battery charge, tow/run position, key and direction selector, brake release, and loose or corroded cables.
Fast Checks When A Golf Cart Won’t Move
Start simple. Many no-go issues come from easy misses. Work through this list before grabbing tools.
- Seat in place, key on, and direction set to Forward or Reverse.
- Charger unplugged; some carts lock out motion while charging.
- Tow/Run or Maintenance switch set to RUN.
- Brake fully released; no pedal or park lock holding the wheels.
- Battery pack charged; cables tight and clean from pack to motor.
Common No-Go Causes And Fast Clues
Symptom | Likely Spot | What To Try |
---|---|---|
No lights, no click | Main fuse, pack, key circuit | Charge the pack, check fuse, test key feed |
Clicks, no move | Solenoid, controller, motor circuit | Listen at solenoid, inspect cables, test for output |
Moves only in one direction | F/R switch or contactor | Cycle selector, inspect wiring and microswitches |
Creeps, then dies | Low pack or bad connections | Measure voltage under load; clean and tighten lugs |
Won’t move while plugged in | Charger interlock | Unplug charger and stow the cord |
Towed, now dead | Tow/Run left in RUN | Set to TOW for service; reset, then back to RUN |
Safety First, Then Steps
Park on level ground. Chock a wheel. Set Tow/Run to TOW before any wiring work. Remove metal jewelry. Use eye protection. If the pack shows damage or smells odd, stop and call a pro.
Power Source: Battery Pack And Cables
The pack feeds every part of motion. If a golf cart won’t move, start here.
Charge And State Of Charge
Confirm the charger finished a cycle. If you use lead-acid batteries, compare open-circuit readings to a maker chart to judge state of charge. Trojan’s maintenance pages explain how to care for and test deep-cycle batteries; the chart on those pages helps set a baseline for healthy readings. Trojan Battery maintenance.
Clean, Tight, And Unbroken
Corrosion robs voltage under load. Remove each cable one at a time. Clean to bright metal. Reinstall to the maker’s torque. Replace any swollen, frayed, or heat-discolored lead.
Load Check
A pack can look fine at rest, then sag when you press the pedal. Clip a meter to the pack. Watch voltage while starting. A large drop points to a weak pack or a bad link between cells.
Golf Cart Won’t Move: Troubleshooting Steps That Work
Once power checks out, move down the drive line.
Key Switch, Direction Selector, And Microswitches
Turn the key on. Move the selector to Forward. Many carts use small switches to tell the controller which way to run. A failed switch leaves the cart idle. Wiggle the lever while pressing the pedal. If motion returns, the switch or its plug needs service. Inspect for broken tabs and loose spades. Replace worn parts; small parts here make big headaches.
Tow/Run Or Maintenance Switch Position
The service switch disables the controller for storage or repair. If it sits in TOW, the cart will not move. Flip to RUN for driving. During repair, move to TOW to protect the controller from spikes and to prevent roll-away.
Charger Interlock Stops Motion
Many models prevent travel while a charger is connected. This is a built-in safety. If the plug is still in the charge port, the controller stays disabled. Unplug the cord and stow it. E-Z-GO explains the interlock clearly in its owner guides. E-Z-GO owner manual.
Solenoid: The Click You Want To Hear
The solenoid links pack power to the controller and motor. Press the pedal while listening next to the solenoid can. A clean click shows the small control circuit can pull it in. No click points to the key feed, pedal switch, F/R input, or the solenoid coil itself. If it clicks but the cart stays still, the contacts may be burned, or the controller may not pass current. Check both big posts for pack voltage when the pedal is pressed. Take care; these parts carry current.
Controller Inputs And Throttle Sensor
The controller needs the right signals to move. That includes pack power, a wake line, a direction signal, and a throttle signal. Inspect the plugs. Seat each connector. Many throttle pedals use a hall sensor or a pot. If the sensor fails or the magnet falls off, the cart will sit silent. Some carts flash a code on a dash lamp. Note any pattern before disconnecting the pack.
Motor And Speed Sensor
Sepex motors include a small sensor on the tail. If it fails, some controllers drop into a limp map or hold zero. Check the sensor plug and the cable shield. On older series motors, brush wear or a stuck brush holder can stop motion. A motor that smells burnt or spins free by hand may need a rebuild.
Cables, Grounds, And Hidden Breaks
A broken cable strand inside the insulation can pass light load but fail under torque. Flex each lead while watching a meter. Look for chafing near the frame and under the battery tray. Replace any cable that runs hot during a short test.
Mechanical Locks That Hold You Back
Not every no-go is electrical. Stuck brakes or a seized bearing can pin the cart in place.
Parking Brake And Pedal Linkage
Release the park lock fully. Tap the pedal to clear a sticky pawl. Some carts use a pedal switch tied to the brake; if that switch fails, the controller may never wake. Inspect the pedal box for dirt and bent levers.
Drum Brakes And Cables
Rear drums can rust to the shoes. Try rolling the cart by hand with Tow/Run set to TOW and the key off. If it will not budge, lift the rear and spin each wheel. A tight side points to a stuck cable or shoe hardware that shifted.
Wheel Bearings And Gear Case
Spin the wheels off the ground. Gritty or tight rotation calls for bearing service. Check the transaxle oil level on models that use it. Whine under load with no motion can mean a stripped hub or axle.
When The Cart Moves But Crawls
If it moves yet feels weak, think limits.
- Low state of charge or one weak battery drags the pack under load.
- Loose lugs heat and drop voltage.
- Speed sensor faults can trigger a limp map.
- Some models have a speed limit key or mode; confirm the mode switch.
Gas Cart: Quick Pointers If The Engine Won’t Pull
Key on, selector set, and brake off. Then check these basics.
- Battery cranks the starter-generator and the belt turns.
- Fuel flows and the filter is full; petcock open where fitted.
- Air box sealed; no missing clips or torn hose.
- Seat switch or neutral lock not stopping spark.
If the starter spins and the belt moves yet the cart will not, inspect the primary clutch, drive belt, and transaxle input. A worn belt or a stuck clutch leaves you stranded.
Meter Tests You Can Run
You can learn a lot with steady meter work, no scan tool needed.
Pack Voltage At Rest And On Pedal
Record the pack at rest. Press the pedal and note the sag. A sharp drop flags a weak pack or bad series link. Log both numbers; they guide the next step.
Solenoid Control Voltage
Measure the small posts. One side should rise to the control voltage when you press the pedal. If it never rises, trace back through the pedal switch and key feed. If it rises yet the solenoid stays silent, the coil may be open.
Controller Output To Motor
With the rear wheels lifted and safe, probe the motor posts. A healthy controller will ramp voltage as the pedal goes down. Flat line output points to an input fault or a failed controller.
Second Table: Quick Targets To Keep Handy
Checkpoint | Healthy Target | Tip |
---|---|---|
Charger interlock | No motion with plug in | Unplug before testing or driving |
Tow/Run switch | RUN for driving | Use TOW during storage or service |
Pack voltage under load | Minimal sag from rest | Large drop hints at weak cells or bad links |
Lug condition | Clean, tight, cool | Heat or green crust means service |
Solenoid on pedal | Clear, repeatable click | No click points to control feed issues |
Motor spin on stands | Smooth ramp | Jerk or stall suggests sensor or cable faults |
Reset Steps After A Tow Or Battery Work
- Set Tow/Run to TOW.
- Disconnect the pack with the main fuse or cable.
- Wait a minute for caps to bleed down.
- Reconnect the pack cleanly.
- Flip to RUN and turn the key on.
- Select a direction and press the pedal with the rear lifted first.
Many makers call for this reset after storage, towing, or controller work. It prevents spikes and clears odd states.
When To Call A Pro
Stop and book service if you see melted lugs, a smoking cable, a hot battery case, or a repeat fuse blow. Use the owner guide for model-specific steps. Club Car and E-Z-GO publish free manuals with wiring views and safety notes. Keep those PDFs handy for your exact serial and options.
Keep It Moving: Simple Habits
Top off charge after use. Keep water at the plates on flooded batteries. Clean lugs every season. Inspect brake cables. Store with the service switch in TOW and the cart secured. Small habits prevent no-go mornings.