Most doors that won’t close need hinge tightening, a longer top-hinge screw, or a small strike-plate shift—fix the door fast with simple tools.
If a door stops just short of the latch, springs back open, or drags along the jamb, the fix
is usually small and mechanical. You don’t need a new slab or a full frame rebuild. A few
smart checks will tell you where the bind starts, then a tiny adjustment brings the door back
to a smooth close.
Most closure problems trace to small things: loose hinge screws, a house that settled,
seasonal swelling, paint ridges, or a strike plate that sits a hair off center.
You don’t need force or a slam. Work methodically: diagnose, make one change, test,
then move to the next adjustment until the latch clicks cleanly.
Quick Diagnosis: Symptom, Cause, Fast Check
Use this table to match what you see to the fastest test. Start at the top row that fits your case.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Fast Check |
|---|---|---|
| Latch hits high on strike | Sag at top hinge or loose screws | Lift door by knob; watch hinge leafs for movement |
| Latch hits low on strike | Bottom hinge pulled out or jamb dropped | Press up under door edge; if it latches, hinge is the culprit |
| Door rubs latch side near top | Top hinge screws short; jamb pulled away | Back out a screw; if it’s 1″ or less, plan a longer screw |
| Door rubs latch side near bottom | Bottom hinge shifted | Shim behind bottom hinge or reset screws |
| Door sticks at head | Seasonal swelling or bowed frame | Close on a strip of paper; feel drag across the head |
| Door closes but latch won’t click | Strike plate misaligned | Color latch bolt with marker; close, then read the rub on the strike |
| Deadbolt won’t throw | Bore not centered or strike too tight | Try with door open; if it turns freely, alignment is off |
| Door seals bounce it open | Overthick weatherstrip | Close on a paper strip; hard pull means compression is too high |
| Latch doesn’t pop out | Dry latch or sticky faceplate | Work the knob and watch the latch; add dry lube if sluggish |
| Paint ridge stops closure | Paint buildup at stop or edge | Run a fingernail along the stop; feel for a ridge |
Tools And Materials
Gather a #2 Phillips, a flat screwdriver, a square, a pencil, a utility knife, a sharp chisel,
a hand plane or block plane, 3″ wood screws, wood filler, a drill/driver, a bit set, a countersink,
painter’s tape, and graphite or PTFE dry lube. Keep safety glasses on and clamp the door when planing.
How To Fix A Door That Doesn’t Latch: Step-By-Step
1) Check Alignment And Gaps
Stand on the hinge side and scan the reveal around the slab carefully. A consistent gap about the
thickness of two credit cards around the top and latch side is a healthy target. If the gap
tightens near the top latch corner, the door likely dropped. If it tightens near the bottom,
the bottom hinge needs help.
2) Tighten Hinges The Right Way
Open the door and run a screwdriver across every hinge screw in the jamb and the slab. If any
spin, remove them and add a dab of wood glue and a few toothpicks or a fluted dowel, then reinstall.
Short hinge screws can’t bite into solid framing, which lets the door sag over time. Swap the screw
closest to the doorstop on the top hinge with a 3″ wood screw driven into the stud; that tiny pull often
raises the latch perfectly.
3) Nudge The Strike Plate
If the latch hits high or low but the gaps look fine, move the strike plate by a hair. Color the latch
bolt with a marker, close the door, then check the strike for witness marks. Loosen the two screws and
shift the plate toward the mark. If the slot won’t allow enough travel, remove the plate and file the
opening slightly, or chisel a neat recess to reset the plate a little higher or lower. For latch fit and
alignment tips straight from a lock maker, see Schlage’s door latch guide.
4) Fix A Sticking Edge
When paint or swollen wood rubs the jamb, mark the tight area with a pencil, tape the face to protect
the finish, then pull the slab and shave the edge with a sharp plane. Take fine passes from both ends toward
the middle to prevent tear-out. Seal the fresh edge with finish to slow moisture uptake. A clear walk-through
of planing technique is in the This Old House guide.
5) Reset Or Shim A Hinge
If the top reveal is tight near the latch side, pull the top hinge toward the stud with that longer screw.
If the head gap is tight from hinge to latch, slip a paper or plastic shim behind the top hinge leaf on
the jamb to tip the door down. If the bottom gap is tight, shim the bottom hinge instead. Purpose-made hinge
shims keep the leaf flat and avoid twist.
6) Tune The Latch And Deadbolt
With the door open, turn the knob and watch the latch move in and out. If it sticks, shoot a tiny puff of
graphite into the bolt and work it a dozen times. Confirm the latch bevel faces the strike. If the deadbolt
binds only when the door is shut, widen the strike pocket slightly and square the edges with a sharp chisel.
7) Deal With Seasonal Swell
Wood moves across the grain as humidity swings. In damp months, the stile on the latch side can grow enough
to rub the stop. Before shaving, try a dehumidifier and better air flow for a few days. If the door only drags
during humid spells, keep planing light and reseal the edge so moisture swings don’t cause a repeat.
8) Clean Up Paint Ridges
Thick paint lines at the stop or on the edge can act like a speed bump. Score the line with a utility knife,
scrape back to a clean profile, sand smooth, and touch up. Avoid globbing paint into the strike pocket; a packed
box stops the latch from seating.
When The Door Still Won’t Close
If the door binds in more than one spot, or the jamb is out of square, stack the fixes: tighten screws, add the
long top screw, shim a hinge, then move the strike. If the slab is bowed or the frame is racked, the lasting answer
may be a new slab, fresh hinges, or a jamb reset.
Shim The Jamb Smartly
Where the reveal changes along the latch side, pop the casing, then add tapered shims behind the latch jamb and
pin them with finish nails. Check the gap with your square as you go. Refasten the casing and paint.
Replace Tired Hardware
Worn hinge pins can squeak and drop the leaf. New hinges are cheap and save time chasing odd binds. Match corner
radius and leaf size, mark around each leaf, score the paint line, then swap one hinge at a time to hold alignment.
Cost, Time, And Difficulty At A Glance
Here’s a quick snapshot of what you’ll spend and how long common fixes take.
| Problem | Typical Fix | Time/Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Loose hinges | Tighten; add 3″ screw at top hinge | 10–15 min / under $2 |
| Latch misses strike | Shift/file strike plate | 15–30 min / $0–$5 |
| Sticking edge | Plane and reseal edge | 30–60 min / $0–$10 |
| Uneven reveal | Shim one hinge or jamb | 20–40 min / $0–$5 |
| Deadbolt binds | Enlarge strike pocket | 10–20 min / $0 |
| Paint ridge | Score, scrape, touch up | 15–30 min / $0 |
Safety And Finish Care
Old coatings may contain lead. If the house predates 1978, use a test swab and follow safe removal methods.
Wear eye protection when planing or chiseling, pull the slab from the hinges with a helper, and clamp the work
at a steady height. When you shave an edge, reseal with finish on the same day to hold a steady moisture content.
Small Tweaks That Help
- Set screw length by location: short screws into the slab edge; 3″ screws through the top jamb hinge into the stud.
- Use a pencil on the latch bolt as a witness mark; it shows where the strike needs relief.
- Add a thin cardboard shim under the strike as a test before you chisel a deeper mortise.
- Swap a chewed Phillips screw for a fresh one; a snug head prevents cam-out while you pull parts true.
- If weatherstrip shoves the door back, pick a thinner profile and seat it evenly along the stop.
Prevent The Next Jam
Once the door latches cleanly, take five minutes for upkeep. Snug hinge screws twice a year, wipe dust from the
strike, and keep the latch bolt clean with dry lube only. Run a fingertip around the reveal every few months; a
tight spot caught early is a ten-minute tune-up, not a weekend project.
Step-By-Step Recap
Fast Path To A Smooth Close
- Scan the gaps and find the tight corner.
- Snug every hinge screw.
- Install one 3″ screw through the top hinge into the stud.
- Nudge the strike plate toward the witness mark.
- Plane only where it rubs, then seal the edge.
- Add a shim behind the hinge or jamb if the reveal still wanders.
- Lube the latch and check deadbolt throw with the door open and closed.
With those steps, nearly every stubborn door can be brought back to a quiet, reliable close without special tools
or a carpentry overhaul.