A door that won’t stay open is fixed by correcting hinge alignment, adding friction, or easing closer tension so gravity stops pulling it shut.
Here’s a clear, no-nonsense guide on how to fix a door that won’t stay open. You’ll start with quick tests, then move through proven repairs from fastest to deeper tweaks. Every step builds on the last, so you can stop the drift and keep the door parked where you want it.
Fixing A Door That Won’t Stay Open: fast checks
Start with the basics. Loose screws, a door frame that’s slightly out of plumb, or a spring hinge set to close are the usual reasons a door drifts. Run the checks below to pinpoint the cause before you pick a fix.
Quick diagnostic table
| Symptom | Most likely cause | Fast check |
|---|---|---|
| Door slowly swings shut | Jamb out of plumb; hinge reveal uneven | Close the door to a 2” gap and watch the gap at the top and latch side |
| Door snaps shut from half-open | Self-closing spring hinge tight | Look for a hex socket and locking pin at the hinge barrel |
| Door won’t hold any position | Hinge screws loose or stripped | Grab the handle and lift; watch hinge leaves for movement |
| Only stays open past 90° | Hinge pin too slick; low friction | Remove a pin and feel for oil or wear grooves |
| Stays open but won’t latch later | Strike off center after adjustment | Mark the latch line with lipstick or pencil and close once |
Tools and materials
You don’t need much. Grab a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a drill/driver, a small level, a nail set, a hammer, a handful of 3” wood screws, thin shims or card stock, a hex key set for spring hinges, and a utility knife. A magnetic door stop is handy for tricky cases.
Why doors drift shut
Two forces are at play. Gravity pulls on a door that’s even a hair off plumb, and spring hardware can add closing force. Fix either and the door will park open. The next sections show the most reliable ways to do that without tearing out trim.
Tighten the easy stuff first
Retighten every hinge screw
Open the door and back out one screw at a time, then drive it snug. If a screw spins, switch to a longer screw that bites fresh wood in the framing. This alone can pull the door back into line and stop the swing.
Swap one screw for a 3” anchor
On the top hinge, replace the center screw on the jamb side with a 3” wood screw. It grabs the stud and pulls the top hinge tight to the framing, which lifts the latch side and can tame a slow drift.
Shim the right hinge to square the reveal
Shimming moves the door in tiny, controlled steps. If the gap is tight at the top latch side and wide at the bottom latch side, slip a thin shim behind the top hinge on the jamb. Reverse the locations if the pattern is flipped. Small shims make a big change, so test after each layer.
For a clean job, trace the hinge leaf onto card stock, cut a neat shim, and set it behind the leaf. This gives full support and keeps screws from twisting the hinge.
Need a visual? See hinge shims in action in This Old House’s skewed door guide, which shows the exact cut-and-place method and where to add material for a plumb, even reveal.
Add friction with a subtle hinge-pin tweak
If the frame is close to plumb but the door still slips shut, add a touch of friction at the hinge. Pull one hinge pin with a nail set, set it on a hard surface, and tap the midpoint for a slight bend. Re-insert the pin and test. Repeat on a second pin if needed; stop once the door holds its spot.
This shop trick is simple, quick, and reversible. Today’s Homeowner shows the bend-the-pin method step by step; you can see it in their short guide here: bend the hinge pin.
Back off self-closing hardware
Garage and entry doors often use spring hinges by code, which add closing force. If your door has a tension slot and a locking pin, you can release a click or two of tension with a hex key and pliers. Ease the spring until the door stays open yet still latches when you want it shut.
How to adjust a spring hinge
Insert the hex key into the top socket, rotate to relieve load, pull the locking pin, then return the socket a notch at a time to set new tension. Test after each change. Keep fingers clear of the barrel.
Re-check latching after adjustments
Any change to hinges can shift the latch line. Coat the latch with pencil graphite and close once to mark the strike. If the mark hits high or low, shim the correct hinge or adjust the strike. File the strike opening a hair only when alignment is nearly perfect and just needs clearance.
When you want a positive hold-open
Some spaces need the door pinned back every time. Add a magnetic catch near the baseboard or use a hinge-pin door stop that locks the leaf against the stop. These add an intentional “park” without fighting the swing each time.
Safety and prep notes
Support the door with a wedge while you work. Keep the hinge leaves flush and fully seated before you drive screws. Wear eye protection when tapping pins or drilling. If you remove a door, get a helper; doors are awkward to balance solo.
Fix picker table
| Situation | Best fix | Typical time |
|---|---|---|
| Slow drift from half-open | 3” screw at top hinge; minor shim on top hinge | 10–20 minutes |
| Snaps shut from any angle | Release spring hinge tension one or two notches | 10 minutes |
| Still slips after shimming | Slightly bend one hinge pin for added friction | 5 minutes |
| Needs parked open daily | Install a magnetic stop or a hinge-pin stop | 15–30 minutes |
| Latch now misses the strike | Micro-shim or file strike slot a touch | 10 minutes |
Step-by-step: shim like a pro
1) Map the reveal
Close the door until it almost touches the stop. Sight the gap at the top and along the latch side. Mark tight zones with painter’s tape. That picture tells you which hinge to move.
2) Pick the hinge
Tight at the top latch side means the top hinge moves out a hair. Tight at the bottom latch side means the bottom hinge moves out. If the center is the pinch point, share a thin shim between top and bottom.
3) Make a full-leaf shim
Trace the leaf onto card stock, cut the outline, and poke screw holes with the tip of a screw. Full-leaf support prevents twist and keeps the leaf flush under load.
4) Loosen, set, and test
Loosen the hinge screws just enough to slip in the shim. Re-tighten, swing the door, and stop at 45°, 60°, and 90°. If it still drifts, add a second thin layer. Stop when the door holds each test angle.
5) Lock it in
Drive one 3” screw through the hinge into framing to keep the fix stable over time. Cut any shim edges flush with a knife.
Step-by-step: bend a hinge pin safely
1) Pull one pin
Use a nail set to push the pin up. Keep the door closed so the leaves stay aligned.
2) Tap a gentle crease
Lay the pin on concrete or steel. Tap the center with a hammer to form a slight arc. You want a bend you can barely see.
3) Re-seat and test
Slide the pin back in. Swing the door to 45° and let go. If it holds, you’re done. If not, repeat with the next hinge or add a whisper more bend.
Step-by-step: adjust a spring hinge
1) Find the socket and pin
Look at the barrel for a hex socket and a tiny retaining pin. That pair controls tension.
2) Release one notch
Turn the socket with the hex key to take load off the pin. Pull the pin. Turn the socket back slowly to drop one notch, then re-insert the pin. Test the swing.
3) Dial it in
Repeat until the door stays open yet latches cleanly when you close it with a natural push.
Small details that matter
Keep hinge knuckles in line. Don’t mix screw head styles on one leaf. Lubricate pins after you finish adjustments to prevent squeaks. Label saved shims and slip them behind the casing for next time.
When a deeper issue needs attention
If the wall is out of plumb by a wide margin, tiny shims may not bridge the gap. You may need to re-set the jamb with tapered shims behind the casing. If the slab is warped, a replacement may be the cleanest path. For heavy exterior doors, spring closers and hold-opens set by a pro can add both control and safety.
Typical causes and fixes, at a glance
Most doors that won’t stay open respond to one of three moves: snug the screws, shim the right hinge, or add pin friction. Spring hardware sits in its own bucket: ease it until the door holds but still latches. With those covered, a door that used to drift now stops where you set it.