Washer won’t drain? Unplug, clear the hose, clean the pump filter, check the lid/door switch, and replace the drain pump if needed.
Pool at the bottom of the tub? You’re dealing with a blocked path or a part that stopped doing its job. Start with simple checks you can do in minutes. If the water level drops as you work, you’re on the right track. Move from easy wins to deeper fixes and you’ll save time, mess, and cash.
Quick Diagnosis By Symptom
Match what you see and hear to pick a smart first move. This cheat sheet keeps you from swapping parts at random and points you to the next step fast.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | First Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Stops with water in tub | Kinked hose or clogged standpipe | Straighten hose; clear standpipe |
| Low hum, no water movement | Jammed or failed drain pump | Open filter; check impeller |
| Click, no spin or drain | Lid switch or door lock fault | Test switch; realign latch |
| Drains, then refills itself | Siphon from a low standpipe | Raise drain height; add air gap |
| Leak near front lower panel | Filter cap loose or boot torn | Reseat cap; replace boot |
| Burning smell on drain | Seized pump motor | Replace pump assembly |
| Odd slosh with empty tub | Balance ring water | Normal; continue checks |
Fix A Washer That Won’t Drain: Quick Checklist
Run these steps in order. Each one builds on the last so you don’t chase the wrong problem.
- Cut power at the plug. Close both water valves.
- Pull the washer forward. Straighten the drain hose.
- Detach the hose at the standpipe or sink and flush it.
- Open the pump filter or coin trap and clear debris.
- Run a Drain/Spin test and listen for flow or hums.
- Check lid switch or door lock for a clean click and secure wiring.
- Confirm standpipe height and a loose air gap at the hose end.
- Inspect the drain pump and impeller; replace if worn or seized.
- Check for codes and repeat a short cycle to verify the fix.
Safety And Prep
Unplug the washer before touching panels, wires, or water lines. Close both valves. If the tub is full, bail water into a bucket or connect a wet/dry vac at the hose end. Keep towels under the front edge. Slide the cabinet only as far as the hoses allow. Work with dry hands and shoes with grip.
Step 1: Clear The Drain Hose
Most no-drain calls trace back to this line. Kinks and lint clogs stop flow fast. Remove the clamp at the standpipe or sink. Aim the hose into a bucket and lower it; gravity will tell you a lot. If water gushes, the path to that point is open. Flush the hose with warm water and pick out coins, threads, and buttons. If the hose is crushed or split, install a new one and fit the U-shaped guide so the bend holds.
Step 2: Clean The Pump Filter Or Coin Trap
Front-load models usually hide the filter behind a small door at the lower front. Place a tray and towels. Pull the little drain tube cap to empty leftover water, then twist the filter counterclockwise. Remove lint and small items, rinse the screen, and check the cavity for debris. Spin the impeller gently with a finger. Reinstall the filter snugly and close the door. Many top-load units skip a user-serviceable filter, so the trap sits inside the pump housing.
Step 3: Run A Drain/Spin Test
Reconnect the hose and select Drain/Spin. Watch the hose end. A strong flow means the problem is solved. A low hum with still water points to a jammed impeller or a tired pump. A click with no spin often traces to the lid switch or door lock not closing.
Step 4: Check The Lid Switch Or Door Lock
Top-load machines rely on a lid switch to permit spin and drain. Close the lid and listen for a small click. With power off, inspect the actuator and the harness. Many switches mount with two screws and a clip. For front-loaders, the door should latch cleanly and the lock light should come on. Loose strikes and bent mounts are common and quick to set straight.
Step 5: Inspect The Drain Pump
The pump sits low near the front or back. Shine a light from the access point. Look for leaks, cracks, rust trails, or scorch marks. Spin the impeller; it should turn with light pressure and spring back a touch. A muted buzz that ends in a hot smell points to a seized motor. Replacement on many models is simple: remove the belt or hoses, swap the pump, and refit the clamps.
Step 6: Check The Standpipe Or Sink
A drain set too low can siphon water back into the tub. A drain set too high can overwork the pump. Many full-size machines call for the standpipe top near 39 inches from the floor and not higher than 96 inches from the washer base. Keep a loose air gap at the hose end so the system can breathe.
Step 7: Confirm Power, Balance, And Level
Plug a lamp into the same outlet to confirm power. Reset a tripped GFCI if needed. Make sure the cabinet sits level so sensors don’t misread vibration and stop the spin. Turn the feet until the unit stands firm and does not rock during a quick shake test.
Step 8: Decode Common Error Messages
OE, 5E, ND, F21, F9E1, and similar codes often point at slow drain. Clear standing water, open the filter, and retry a short cycle. If the code returns, move to pump testing and hose checks. Some models list the code map on the door frame; the full list sits in the brand guide.
When A Clog Hides Deeper
Lint and small items can lodge in the bellows between the tub and pump. Remove the lower front panel or tilt the unit back safely. Squeeze the rubber boot and feel for coins. Loosen clamps and inspect the route from tub to pump. Refit the boot with the clamp seated past the barbs. Replace any piece with holes or gummy buildup that won’t clean off.
Tools You’ll Want
Screwdrivers, nut drivers, long-nose pliers, clamp pliers, flashlight, small tray, microfiber towels, bucket, wet/dry vac, gloves, and a multimeter for switch checks. A phone camera helps you track wire locations before you pull parts.
How To Test A Lid Switch
Unplug the washer and access the switch from the top panel or under the rim. Note the harness position. Set the meter to continuity. With the lid pressed, you should hear a beep or see near-zero ohms. No change means the switch is open and needs a swap. Label wires before removal and mount the new part the same way.
How To Test A Drain Pump
Unplug the washer and remove the pump wires and hoses. Check for clogs first. Then test coil resistance across the motor pins; many small pumps read in the tens of ohms. A total open or a dead short is a fail. If the pump passes and still hums under load, replace it on symptoms. Skip any live-power test unless you are trained.
Standpipe Height And Siphon Notes
Brands publish a range for the drain. One common spec is a minimum near 39 inches and a max near 96 inches from the washer base. Too low invites siphon. Too high strains the pump. Keep only a short length of hose in the pipe and leave an air gap. For exact numbers, see the Whirlpool installation instruction, which mirrors many full-size layouts. The siphon warning appears in brand help pages too; Samsung notes that a hose set below about 39 inches can cause water to run back into the tub during cycles, which looks like a drain fault.
Front-Load Vs Top-Load Tips
Front-load owners should clean the pump filter every few months, more often with pets or heavy lint. Check the door boot for socks near the lower fold. Top-load owners should inspect the rim for strings that hang into the tub and snag the pump. Agitator models can trap a stray sock under the cap; remove the cap and pull the sleeve to clear it.
Error Clues From The Brands
Factory guides point to the same hotspots: hose kinks, clogs, switch faults, and pumps. If you want a second opinion while you work, scan a brand FAQ like GE’s “won’t drain” page. The steps align with the playbook here, so you can compare notes as you go.
Parts And Tools Cheat Sheet
| Part/Tool | What It Does | Quick Test |
|---|---|---|
| Drain hose | Carries water to standpipe or sink | Flush; check for kinks or splits |
| Pump filter | Catches lint and coins | Remove, rinse, inspect cavity |
| Drain pump | Moves water out of tub | Spin impeller; resistance in spec |
| Lid switch / door lock | Permits spin and drain | Listen for click; meter continuity |
| Standpipe | Receives discharge flow | Height in spec; air gap present |
| Multimeter | Checks switches and coils | Continuity or ohms readings |
| Wet/dry vac | Clears water for service | Siphon at hose end as needed |
When To Call A Pro
Stop and book service if water reached the control board, if the breaker trips, or if you smell burning insulation. Homes with overhead sewers or long vertical runs may need a small sump to lift discharge. A tech can add that and route the hose so the pump runs within spec.
Prevent The Next Clog
Shake pockets and zip covers before every load. Use mesh bags for baby socks and sports gear. Clean the pump filter on a schedule. Keep the standpipe height within spec and leave the hose with a gentle bend and a breathing gap. Run a monthly hot wash with no clothes to flush lint. A few habits keep the drain path clear and the tub empty when the cycle ends.