To fix a window that won’t stay open, service or replace the balance or cord, clean tracks, and set tension with safe, simple steps.
A window that slides up and falls shut wastes time and frays nerves. The cure is methodical: identify the hardware that holds the sash, clean the tracks, set or replace worn parts, then test. Most fixes take basic hand tools and a steady plan.
This guide walks through clear steps for the common window types—double-hung, single-hung, casement, and older wood units with sash weights. You’ll learn to spot the right balance, reset a slipped shoe, swap parts, and dial in tension so the sash lifts smoothly and stays where you leave it.
Quick Diagnosis Table
Window Type | Likely Cause | Fast Check Or Fix |
---|---|---|
Double/Single-Hung With Spiral Balance | Low tension or broken tip | Wind spiral 2–4 turns with a tension tool; replace if bent or seized |
Hung With Block-And-Tackle | Frayed cord or weak spring | Swap both balances; match stamp number and channel length |
Hung With Coil (Constant Force) | Cracked leaf spring or broken tab | Replace coil pack and cover; set both shoes to equal height |
Older Wood With Sash Weights | Snapped sash cord | Open side pocket; thread new cord; tie to weight and sash |
Vinyl Tilt-In With Cam Shoe | Shoe slipped or cam rotated | Reset shoe with a flathead; re-engage pivot bar and test |
Casement Or Awning | Loose friction hinge or worn operator | Tighten hinge screw; replace hinge or operator if drift remains |
Quick Safety And Tools
Work on a stable surface and protect glass edges. If you use a ladder, set the right angle, plant the feet on firm ground, and keep three points of contact. A one-page refresher is here: OSHA portable ladder safety. Wear gloves and eye protection. Lay a drop cloth to catch screws and clips.
- Tape measure, Phillips and flathead drivers, putty knife
- Needle-nose pliers, locking pliers, utility knife
- Silicone-free dry lube or PTFE spray for tracks
- Spiral balance tension tool or small hex bit (as needed)
- Replacement balances, shoes, pivot bars, or sash cord
Fixing A Window That Won’t Stay Open: Step-By-Step
1) Confirm Sash Alignment And Stops
Look for a tilt latch stuck out, a stop out of place, or a top sash that slid down. Push both sashes fully up, seat the top sash, and square the meeting rail. A mis-seated top sash can make the lower sash drop.
2) Identify The Balance Type
Raise the lower sash a few inches. On tilt models, press both latches and tip the sash toward you. Shine a light into the side channels. A round steel rod with a loop points to a spiral balance. A plastic shoe with a metal cam and a thin spring pack points to a coil. A long metal channel stamped with a number points to block-and-tackle. Cotton rope behind a wood stop points to a weight system.
3) Clean Tracks And Lube
Vacuum grit from the tracks and jamb liners. Scrape paint ridges from stops and parting beads. Spray a light coat of dry lube on the side channels and pivot points. Avoid oil that collects dust. Reinstall the sash and see if the hold improves. If not, keep going.
4) Reset A Slipped Tilt Shoe
With the sash removed, find the shoe near the lower third of the jamb. Insert a flathead into the cam slot, turn it to the open position, and slide the shoe up to mid-height. Turn the cam back to lock. Reinstall the sash. Engage the pivot bars into the shoes, tilt up, and snap the latches shut. The sash should now hold at mid-stroke.
5) Adjust Or Replace A Spiral Balance
Hook the tension tool into the spiral tip. Pull down slightly, turn clockwise to add turns, then set the tip on the shoe peg. Start with two turns per side for a light sash; add one turn at a time until the sash holds. If the rod spins freely or the tip is broken, replace the pair. Measure tube length and tip style so the new parts match.
6) Replace Block-And-Tackle Or Coil Packs
Remove the interior stop on one side. Unscrew the balance near the head, then unclip it from the shoe. Match the stamp number and the channel length. Swap both sides so lift stays even. For coil packs, release the shoe, remove the cover, and stack new leaves that match the rating. Refit the cover, lock the cam, and test travel.
7) Repair A Sash Cord And Weight
Pry off the small wood pocket cover near the sill. Lift out the old cord. Fish new sash cord over the pulley. Tie to the weight with a figure-eight or bowline. Pull slack, then tie to the sash through the side knot hole. Leave a touch of slack for seasonal swell. Replace the pocket cover and check the hold at several heights.
Casement And Awning Windows That Drop
Casement and awning units use friction hinges and a crank operator to hold the panel. If the panel drifts shut, turn the hinge adjuster screw a quarter turn, test, then match the top and bottom. If play remains, check the stay arm shoe and the operator gear. Many makers post short guides for their series. One example is the Andersen help center for specific models: balancer replacement steps.
Pro Tips For Smooth Removal And Reinstall
Protect The Jamb Liner
Some vinyl liners crack if pried. Work a putty knife under the stop first, then a thin bar. Take small bites along the length so nails release without tearing the liner.
Keep Pairs In Sync
Replace balances in pairs and set both shoes at the same height. Uneven lift makes a sash rack and stick.
Mind Spring Tension
Pre-tension only as much as the sash weight needs. Too much pull makes the sash rise on its own. Too little and it will sag. Aim for a sash that pauses at one-third, two-thirds, and near the top.
Part Sourcing, Time, And Fit
Most parts ship by model number or by measurement. Bring the old balance to a counter, or send clear photos to a parts house. Note stamp numbers, tube length, tip style, shoe color, and clip positions. Many brands print model stickers under the sash or behind a stop.
Part Or Task | Where To Find | DIY Time |
---|---|---|
Spiral Balance Pair | Manufacturer or parts outlet | 30–60 minutes |
Block-And-Tackle Pair | Manufacturer or parts outlet | 45–90 minutes |
Coil Pack And Shoe | Manufacturer or parts outlet | 30–60 minutes |
Sash Cord And Weight | Hardware store or millwork shop | 60–120 minutes |
Tilt Shoe Reset | N/A (existing parts) | 10–20 minutes |
Casement Hinge Adjust | N/A (existing parts) | 10–15 minutes |
Casement Operator Swap | Manufacturer or parts outlet | 30–60 minutes |
Common Mistakes That Make Windows Drop
Skipping A Pair Replacement
Mixing an old balance with a new one skews lift. The sash may hold at one height and drift at another. Swap both to keep spring rates even.
Mis-Seating The Pivot Bar
If the pivot bar tip sits only halfway in the shoe, the cam can slip under load. Confirm the tip is fully seated and the cam is locked before you lift.
Over-Lubing The Tracks
Thick oil collects grit and slows travel. A light dry lube keeps dust at bay. Wipe any overspray from glass and vinyl.
Missing A Hidden Stop
Many units hide a small screw or clip at the head. If the sash refuses to clear the frame, hunt for that fastener and remove it before you pry.
Prevention And Care
Once your window holds its place, spend a few minutes on upkeep. Brush dirt from tracks each season. Rinse weep holes. Spray dry lube on side channels and hinges. Touch up paint on wood stops so the sash glides without snagging. Check screws on tilt latches, pivot bars, and casement stays. A light tune once or twice a year keeps parts from wearing out.
Final Checks And Test
Run this short test:
- Lift the sash to one-third, then two-thirds. It should pause without drift.
- Open fully and close gently. The meeting rail should align cleanly.
- Tilt in and lock both latches. The sash should square up without rattle.
- If drift remains, add one turn to each spiral or move to the next balance rating.
You now have a clear plan for any window that will not stay open. Identify the hardware, reset or swap the part, and test at each height. With safe setup and the right parts, this turns into a tidy weekend win.