This Anynet+ error means HDMI-CEC lost its link; reseat HDMI, power-cycle both devices, then run Device Search.
If your Samsung TV shows an Anynet+ connection warning, it’s telling you one thing. The TV can’t complete its HDMI-CEC handshake with the device it expects to control. It might be a soundbar, receiver, cable box, console, or streamer.
The good news is this error is often a wiring and power-state problem, not a dead device. When you see anynet+ device not connected, treat it like a link reset task, not a hardware verdict.
A clean reset of the HDMI chain plus a fresh device scan fixes a chunk of cases. When it doesn’t, the next wins usually come from the HDMI port choice, the cable path, or a device-side CEC toggle.
What This Anynet+ Connection Message Means
Anynet+ is Samsung’s name for HDMI-CEC, the control channel that lets devices send commands over the HDMI cable. It’s the feature behind “TV remote controls the soundbar,” “TV turns on the console,” and “soundbar volume changes with one remote.”
When the message appears, the TV either can’t see a CEC-capable device on that HDMI port, or it can see it but can’t finish the control link. Both paths point to the same root issue. The CEC line isn’t talking cleanly end to end.
Common Triggers
- Power-state mismatch — One device woke up, the other stayed half-asleep, so CEC commands go nowhere.
- Wrong port choice — The soundbar or receiver is plugged into a non-ARC/eARC port when audio return is needed.
- Cable or adapter trouble — A cable, coupler, wall plate, or HDMI switch blocks the CEC pin.
- CEC turned off — Anynet+ is off on the TV, or CEC is off on the external device.
- Device list confusion — The TV remembers an old device name and tries to control it after you changed gear.
Fix Anynet+ Device Not Connected Error On Samsung TV
Start with the steps that reset the HDMI handshake without changing a pile of settings. This order keeps the process tidy and saves time.
Ten-Minute Reset That Solves Most Cases
- Turn all gear off — Power down the TV and the connected device, then unplug both from the wall.
- Disconnect HDMI ends — Pull the HDMI cable from the TV and from the device so the connection fully breaks.
- Drain leftover power — Hold the TV power button on the remote for 10 seconds, then do the same on the device if it has a power button.
- Reconnect in a clean chain — Plug HDMI directly from TV to device, skipping switches, splitters, and adapters for this test.
- Power on the TV first — Let the TV reach the Home screen, then power on the device so it announces itself over CEC.
- Run Device Search — Open Settings, find Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC), and trigger a device scan so the TV rebuilds its list.
If you see the message after this reset, don’t jump to factory resets yet. Move to cable and port checks next, since CEC is picky about the physical path.
HDMI Cable And Port Checks That Matter
CEC uses a dedicated signal line inside the HDMI connection. Many cables pass video while the control line behaves badly. This is why the picture can look perfect while Anynet+ won’t link.
Pick The Right HDMI Port For Audio Gear
If you’re linking a soundbar or receiver, plug it into the TV’s port labeled ARC or eARC. If the bar is in a random HDMI port, you might get sound through the bar’s inputs, but TV apps may not send audio back through the same path.
- Use ARC/eARC on the TV — Connect the soundbar’s HDMI OUT (ARC/eARC) to the TV’s HDMI ARC/eARC port.
- Use HDMI IN on the bar for sources — If your bar has HDMI IN ports, plug your console or streamer into the bar, then let the bar pass video to the TV.
- Enable the audio return feature — Turn on ARC/eARC and the TV’s audio output setting that matches your bar or receiver.
Swap One Thing At A Time
- Try a different HDMI cable — Use a short, known-good cable for the test chain.
- Move to another HDMI port — Plug the device into a different port on the TV, then re-run Device Search.
- Remove pass-through gear — Take out wall plates, couplers, HDMI extenders, capture cards, and sound splitters.
If the issue only happens through a switch or AVR, that’s still useful. It tells you the TV and device can talk when the path is clean, so the middle box is the weak link.
Device Settings That Block CEC
CEC is a two-way feature. The TV can be set perfectly, yet the connected device can still ignore CEC if its own setting is off. Many devices hide the toggle in “System,” “Power,” or “HDMI” menus.
Soundbars And AV Receivers
- Turn on HDMI control — Look for a setting like HDMI Control, CEC, or TV Control on the bar or receiver.
- Turn on System Audio — Some receivers need a second toggle so the TV routes volume and mute correctly.
- Confirm the correct HDMI OUT — Use the port marked ARC/eARC on the bar or receiver, not a standard monitor output.
Game Consoles
Consoles often enable CEC features by default. That can help, or it can create weird power cycles that make the TV think a device vanished.
- Enable the HDMI device link — Check the console’s HDMI settings for a CEC toggle, then turn it on for testing.
- Disable one-touch power — If the console keeps waking the TV at the wrong time, turn off auto power features and keep basic control on.
- Fully shut down once — Do one full shutdown (not sleep) so the console restarts its HDMI handshake fresh.
Streaming Boxes And Sticks
- Turn on TV control — Look for HDMI-CEC, “Control TVs,” or “One-touch play” in the device settings.
- Re-run device setup — If the box has a remote setup wizard, repeat it so it learns the TV again.
- Update device software — Install the latest system update, since CEC bugs get patched over time.
After changing a device-side CEC setting, repeat the power-cycle and Device Search steps. CEC toggles often take effect only after a restart.
Deeper Resets When The Link Won’t Stay
If the message clears and then comes back days later, you’re dealing with a recurring handshake break. That usually means one device is changing state in a way the TV can’t follow, or two devices are fighting for control.
Clean Up The TV’s External Device List
- Remove old device entries — In the TV’s connected devices list, delete devices you no longer use.
- Turn Anynet+ off, then on — Toggle Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) off, wait 10 seconds, then turn it back on.
- Run Device Search again — Let the TV rebuild the list from scratch.
Stop CEC Conflicts In Multi-Device Setups
CEC works best when the TV talks to a small number of devices. When you chain a TV, AVR, console, and streamer, each one may try to claim “active source” control.
- Pick one main source path — Decide if sources plug into the TV or into the AVR, then stick to one layout.
- Disable CEC on one device — Turn off CEC on the device that causes trouble, then keep it on for the device you control most.
- Turn off auto input switching — Many devices have a feature that steals the TV input. Disable it if it causes random switches.
Update TV Software And Do A Soft Reset
Samsung models place the Anynet+ menu in different spots depending on the model year. On recent models it often lives under External Device Manager. If you can’t find it, check for a software update first, then search again in the settings tree.
- Install TV updates — Run the TV’s software update tool, then restart.
- Do a cold boot — With the TV on, hold the remote Power button until the TV turns off and back on.
- Re-check Anynet+ state — Confirm Anynet+ is on after the restart.
If none of these hold, a factory reset can help, but it’s a last resort since it wipes apps and settings. Try to isolate the problem first by testing the TV with one device and one cable.
Common Causes And Fixes At A Glance
This table gives you quick mapping from what you see to the first fix that tends to work. Start with the top row that matches your symptom, then work downward.
| What You Notice | Likely Cause | First Fix To Try |
|---|---|---|
| Message appears after a power outage | CEC handshake broke during reboot | Unplug TV and device for 60 seconds, then Device Search |
| TV remote won’t change soundbar volume | ARC/eARC path or HDMI control off | Use the TV’s ARC/eARC port, then enable HDMI control on the bar |
| Device shows in list, then disappears | HDMI cable or adapter blocks CEC line | Swap to a short HDMI cable, skip wall plates and switches |
| Console turns TV on, then error pops up | Auto power features fighting | Disable one-touch power on the console, keep basic CEC on |
| Works direct, fails through AVR | AVR CEC setting off or port mismatch | Enable HDMI control on the AVR and confirm ARC/eARC ports |
If you’re still stuck after the table fixes, do a controlled test. TV plus one HDMI cable plus one device. If that works, add devices back one at a time until the failure returns. That reveals the troublemaker fast.
Reference Pages To Verify Settings
Menu names vary by Samsung TV model year, and device makers rename CEC in their own way. If you want to double-check wording, search your exact TV model number plus “Anynet+” or “HDMI-CEC,” then match the menu path to your on-screen settings.
Find The Anynet+ Toggle On Different Samsung Menus
Samsung shifts the menu path across model years. If you can’t find Anynet+, search for an External Device Manager item, then look for an Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) toggle inside it.
- Check Connection menus — On many models, Anynet+ sits under Settings, then Connection, then External Device Manager.
- Check General menus — Some models place External Device Manager under General or General & Privacy.
CEC Names You’ll See On Other Devices
Device makers rename HDMI-CEC, so the right toggle may be hiding under a brand label. If you don’t see “CEC,” look for the names below in your device menus.
- Look for Anynet+ — Samsung TVs and some Samsung gear use Anynet+.
- Look for Bravia Sync — Many Sony TVs label CEC this way.
- Look for SIMPLINK — Many LG TVs use SIMPLINK for CEC.
Once the link is stable, leave it alone for a day or two. If the message “anynet+ device not connected” returns, the fix that sticks is usually the one that removes a flaky cable, a switch, or an over-eager auto power setting.
