What Are The 14 Trees That Don’t Lose Their Leaves? | Year-Round Green

If you’re new to the term “evergreen,” see a neutral definition at a trusted reference on botany. Cold tolerance varies by species and by location, so check the official USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map before you buy. And if you notice older needles yellowing inside the canopy, that’s normal seasonal needle drop on many conifers.

Evergreen trees hold foliage through all seasons. Unlike deciduous trees that drop everything at once, these species refresh older leaves or needles in cycles, so the canopy never goes bare. That rhythm is why a yard can look alive even in deep winter. It also means a layer of shed needles or leathery leaves under an evergreen is normal, not a problem.

Below is a clear, grower-friendly guide to fourteen reliable choices. You’ll see a mix of broadleaf evergreens and conifers, with notes on looks, size, and site needs. Where a species can misbehave or struggle, you’ll see a quick heads-up so you can plant with confidence.

Trees That Don’t Lose Their Leaves: The Core Fourteen

Tree	Type	Leaf Or Needle Notes
Southern Magnolia	Broadleaf	Glossy, large leaves; creamy summer blooms
American Holly	Broadleaf	Spiny leaves; red berries on female trees
Live Oak	Broadleaf	Tough, evergreen oak; massive limbs in warm zones
Olive	Broadleaf	Silver-green leaves; rugged bark; warm, dry sites
Bay Laurel	Broadleaf	Aromatic leaves; clips well for neat shapes
Camphor Tree	Broadleaf	Shiny leaves with camphor scent; warm climates
Eucalyptus (Blue Gum)	Broadleaf	Blue-green leaves; fast growth where hardy
Deodar Cedar	Conifer	Soft, sweeping needles; graceful habit
Norway Spruce	Conifer	Dark needles; long hanging cones
Eastern Redcedar	Conifer	Fragrant, scale leaves; rugged native
Leyland Cypress	Conifer	Dense screens; rapid growth
Douglas-fir	Conifer	Soft, flat needles; classic conifer look
Holm Oak	Broadleaf	Mediterranean evergreen oak; resilient
Loblolly Pine	Conifer	Long needles; tall, straight trunk

Southern Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)

Thick, shiny leaves stay on the tree year after year, forming a deep green backdrop for huge cream flowers. The canopy casts cool shade and the trunk ages with presence. Space is the only real ask; it grows wide and tall in warm regions and holds its foliage through cold snaps better than many broadleaf evergreens.

Give it sun and room for roots. Young trees benefit from regular water while they settle in; older trees get by on far less. Shelter from harsh, drying wind helps the leaves keep their gloss.

American Holly (Ilex opaca)

A pyramidal outline, tough evergreen leaves, and bright red fruit give this native star winter charm. The foliage is dense enough for screening and nesting birds. Fruit forms on female trees, so pair with a nearby male for best berry show.

Pick a site with sun to part shade and acidic soil. Steady moisture leads to better growth, but drainage matters. Prune after fruiting to shape, avoiding heavy cuts into old wood.

Live Oak (Quercus virginiana)

Iconic limbs stretch wide, and the canopy stays leafy across the calendar in warm zones. New leaves roll in as older ones shed, so the tree never looks bare. Bark turns dark and furrowed with age, adding drama along a drive or lawn edge.

Plant where roots can spread and soil drains well. Salt tolerance is helpful near coasts. A young tree may need staking in open sites; once settled, it anchors a large garden for generations.

Olive (Olea europaea)

Narrow, silvery leaves shimmer in sun and stay on year-round. A mature olive brings textured bark and a sculptural frame that suits dry, bright gardens and patios. In cooler regions, keep it in a container and wheel it to shelter during hard freezes.

Choose the sunniest spot you have and keep the soil freely draining. Deep but infrequent water suits olives once established. Clip lightly for form; heavy pruning is best just after peak cold passes.

Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis)

Glossy, aromatic foliage makes this kitchen staple a landscape workhorse. It stays green in winter, responds well to clipping, and can pass as a small tree or a tidy standard by the front door. Leaves scent stews and sauces fresh or dried.

Grow in a container or the ground with sun and drainage. Trim little and often to keep a shape you like. In cold snaps below its comfort zone, wrap or move pots to a bright, frost-free space.

Camphor Tree (Cinnamomum camphora)

Evergreen leaves release a camphor scent when crushed, and the crown casts dense shade. It suits large, warm gardens and city streets where its broad canopy can spread. In parts of the Southeast it seeds around, so check local guidance before planting.

Full sun, space, and moderate water set it up well. Skip planting near tiny courtyards or narrow drives; the frame wants width. Prune young for strong structure and leave mature limbs with careful, light cuts.

Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus and kin)

Blue gum and other hardy selections hold leaves all year in mild zones. Growth is vigorous, bark peels in ribbons, and the scent reads clean and fresh. In cooler regions, compact types grow well in large containers that can be sited out of the wind.

Sun, drainage, and wind protection matter most. Stake early, water well the first summers, and allow a single leader for a strong main trunk. Avoid planting near small wooden sheds due to leaf litter and height.

Deodar Cedar (Cedrus deodara)

Soft needles drape from sweeping branches, giving this cedar a graceful, relaxed look even at large size. Color runs from green to bluish, and cones perch upright on older wood. It stays green through snow and looks stately beside lawns and drives.

Pick a sunny spot with room to reach its natural spread. Keep the root zone mulched but not piled against the trunk. Water during prolonged droughts in the first few years, then let deep roots do the work.

Norway Spruce (Picea abies)

Dark green needles and long, dangling cones define this classic spruce. The tree holds foliage year-round and works well as a windbreak or tall screen on larger lots. Many compact forms exist for tighter sites, but the species itself grows big.

Give full sun, good drainage, and space from buildings. Water in dry spells during the first few seasons. Skip hard shearing; light, selective cuts keep a natural outline and better health.

Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana)

Fragrant, scale-like foliage ranges from rich green to glaucous blue. Birds flock to the berry-like cones and the tree shrugs off heat, wind, and thin soils. It holds its color through winter and stands tall where other evergreens sulk.

Plant in full sun and lean soil; this native thrives where care is minimal. Keep it back from fruit orchards to limit cedar-apple rust issues. Avoid overwatering, as wet feet dull its vigor.

Leyland Cypress (× Cuprocyparis leylandii)

Few trees build a tall screen as quickly. The plume-like sprays stay green in winter and fill gaps fast along roads and lot lines. With that speed comes upkeep; set plants with room and plan for periodic thinning cuts to keep air moving.

Choose well-drained soil and bright light. Water during dry spells in the first two years, then reduce. If disease pressure is high in your area, space plants wider or mix with other evergreens.

Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)

Soft, flat needles release a pleasant scent when rubbed, and the trademark cones carry tiny trident-like bracts. The tree carries its green through winter and brings a classic conifer shape to large sites and rural edges.

Plant in sun with deep, well-drained soil. Young trees like steady moisture as they establish; older specimens handle brief drought. Keep turf away from the trunk to avoid mower nicks and root stress.

Holm Oak (Quercus ilex)

An evergreen oak from the Mediterranean, with leathery leaves that look a bit like holly when young. The canopy stays dense year-round, making a steady windbreak or a bold shade tree for coastal gardens where salt spray rules out many trees.

Set it in sun and let it dig deep. It puts up with heat and dry spells once roots run wide. Form a clear trunk early if you want summer shade over a seating area or drive.

Loblolly Pine (Pinus taeda)

Long needles shimmer in the breeze and the trunk rises straight with plates of bark in warm browns. The crown keeps its needles for several years at a time, so it reads green each month. Growth is brisk in the Southeast on sites with decent drainage.

Plant in sun, give first-year water, and keep mulch over the root zone. This pine dislikes compacted soil. Keep it set back from structures so roots and branches have safe clearance at maturity.

What Trees Don’t Lose Their Leaves In Winter? A Regional View

Cold, snowy zones often rely on conifers. Norway spruce, Douglas-fir, and hardy cedars hold color when nights drop well below zero. In these areas, pick sites with sun, windbreaks from buildings or hedges, and well-drained soil to avoid winter root issues.

Milder regions can add broadleaf evergreens. Southern magnolia, live oak, holm oak, bay laurel, olive, and camphor leaf out across the year. In coastal belts, salt tolerance points you toward live oak, eastern redcedar, and holm oak. In dry summer climates, olive and bay laurel shine where water is tight.

Where winter chill arrives in brief waves, many gardeners blend groups. A backbone of pines, spruces, and cedars stays green through cold snaps, while magnolia and holm oak keep the scene leafy once warmth returns. That mix gives privacy, shade, and winter structure without bare gaps.

How Evergreen Leaf Retention Works

Do evergreen trees shed leaves? They do, just not all at once. Needles and leaves age, yellow, and fall after a few years, while new growth is already in place. That steady turnover keeps branches clothed across the calendar. If you see an inner ring of older needles browning in fall on pines or spruces, that’s the normal cycle, not a crisis.

Planting And Care Basics That Keep Leaves On

Planting well makes the difference between a sulking tree and a steady evergreen. Start with a hole as deep as the root ball and two to three times as wide. Set the root flare level with the soil. Backfill with the soil you dug out, water to settle, and mulch in a wide, flat ring kept a hand’s width off the trunk. Skip fertilizer at planting.

Goal	Good Matches
Fast Privacy	Leyland cypress; eastern redcedar; Norway spruce
Wind Shelter	Norway spruce; deodar cedar; loblolly pine
Small-Space Pots	Bay laurel; olive; compact eucalyptus
Coastal Sites	Live oak; eastern redcedar; holm oak
Drought-Lean	Olive; bay laurel; deodar cedar

Watering: Deep, infrequent sessions help roots dive. In the first two growing seasons, soak the root zone once or twice a week during dry weather. Then reduce to occasional deep water in long dry spells, based on soil and climate.

Pruning: Use light, well-timed cuts. Shape hollies after berries, thin Leyland cypress to improve airflow, and remove deadwood from conifers in late winter. Leave the branch collar intact and avoid flush cuts. Less is more with evergreens.

Soil and mulch: Drainage beats rich soil for most evergreens. A two- to three-inch blanket of arborist chips or shredded bark keeps roots cool and moist. Keep mulch off trunks and away from siding to prevent rot.

Right tree, right place: Match mature size to the site. Give big trees clear space from wires, roofs, and property lines. If you need a narrow screen along a drive, pick conical forms or smaller selections instead of forcing a giant into a tight strip.

Pick what fits your space, plant well, and enjoy green shade, privacy, and structure across every single month. Start today.