Start with moisture control, night traps, and tight seals; add diatomaceous earth or bait for heavy hotspots; reserve sprays for last resort.
Best way to get rid of earwigs at home
You want results fast. Indoors, the winning mix is dry air, zero entry gaps, and simple traps you check each morning. Earwigs wander in at night from damp beds and clutter against the foundation. Stop the inflow, make the space less welcoming, and clear the few that slip through.
Core moves for inside spaces
- Vacuum strays and dump the canister outdoors.
- Seal gaps at door sweeps, utility lines, and baseboards with silicone or foam.
- Run a dehumidifier in basements, bathrooms, or laundry rooms.
- Swap bright white bulbs at exterior doors for warm yellow bulbs that draw fewer insects.
- Set two trap types near entry points overnight: a rolled, slightly damp newspaper and a shallow dish with equal parts soy sauce and cooking oil.
These steps line up with UC IPM earwig guidance and University of Minnesota Extension, which both stress dryness, exclusion, and trapping over indoor sprays.
Quick signs and first actions
| What you see | Likely cause | Action now |
|---|---|---|
| Earwigs near doors at night | Moist beds against siding | Pull mulch back 12–18 in., fix leaks, add a gravel strip |
| Chewed seedlings | Night feeding under shelter | Use collars, set oil traps at dusk, clear boards and weeds |
| Dozens under pots | Cool, shaded shelters | Lift pots on feet, let sun and airflow dry the area |
| Inside the tub or sink | Water draw and light | Dry drains at night, seal gaps, run a dehumidifier |
What earwigs are and why they spread
Most yard invaders are European earwigs, night feeders that hide under mulch, boards, or pots by day. They chew soft growth and fallen leaves, yet they also eat aphids and other small pests. That mixed diet explains why gardens can host many without clear damage until seedlings or soft fruit are on the menu.
How to read their habits
They ride in on nursery pots, firewood, and cardboard. They thrive where soil stays damp and where groundcovers meet siding. They crawl through hairline cracks and under door sweeps. Shine a flashlight at night and you’ll spot them along edges and under clutter within a few steps of shelter.
Signs that point to earwigs
Look for ragged holes in leaves, clipping on seedling stems, and little black pellets on hiding spots. In the morning, unroll a damp paper trap and you may find a cluster inside.
Indoor fixes that work fast
Dry it out and block the path
Run fans after showers, fix drips, and vent dryers outside. Caulk baseboards in older baths and kitchens. Add a door sweep where light shows under a door. Where pipes pass through walls, foam the ring around the line.
Trap while you sleep
Drop a roll of slightly damp newsprint behind the toilet, under the sink, or near the water heater before bed. Place shallow dishes with a soy sauce and oil mix near thresholds. In the morning, bag the paper and pour traps into soapy water.
Sprays inside rooms don’t stop new arrivals, and both UC IPM earwig guidance and University of Minnesota Extension advise skipping them indoors.
Getting rid of earwigs in the garden
Thin mulch and move water away
Keep drip lines tight, fix weepers, and water early so surfaces dry by dusk. Pull bark or straw back from stems. Along the foundation, replace dense mulch with a narrow gravel band that dries fast.
Lift shelters and tidy edges
Stack firewood off the ground. Raise pots on feet. Store cardboard and tarps on shelves. Trim groundcovers back from siding and fence lines. Keep a clean gap between beds and the house.
Protect tender plants
Use plant collars on seedlings. Wrap stem bases of dahlias or basil with a short band of petroleum jelly to slow climbing. Pick ripe fruit at dusk so it doesn’t sit through peak feeding time.
Smart trapping methods
Oil traps that lure at night
Mix equal parts soy sauce and vegetable oil in tuna cans or jar lids. Set flush with the soil near shady edges at dusk. The scent draws earwigs; the oil holds them. Check and refresh each morning.
Paper, cardboard, and tubing
Roll damp newspaper, slip short pieces of hose over stakes, or fold a corrugated cardboard strip and lay it in beds. In the morning, dunk the bundle in a bucket of soapy water.
Where to place traps
Work in grids along fences, under low shrubs, and beside compost bins. Keep traps out of reach of pets and kids, or tuck them into vented nursery pots turned upside down.
Barriers and baits, used right
Dry barriers
Dust a light band of diatomaceous earth where hardscape meets beds and along sills. Reapply after rain. Wear a mask while placing dust so you don’t inhale fine particles.
Bait for hotspots
In stubborn pockets, a ready-to-use bait labeled for earwigs can take pressure down. Scatter lightly at dusk near fences, woodpiles, or foundation beds, never on edible leaves. Read and follow EPA label directions for any product you pick.
Keep non-targets safe
Place bait where pets and kids can’t reach it. Sweep granules off paths. Store the box high and sealed.
Pick the right control for the job
| Method | Use when | Best spots |
|---|---|---|
| Dehumidifier & caulk | Earwigs show up in baths or basements | Under sinks, around pipe runs, baseboards |
| Oil or paper traps | Night activity near beds or doors | Along edges, under shrubs, beside thresholds |
| Diatomaceous earth | Dry weather and steady traffic zones | Along slabs, door sills, wall bases |
| Labeled bait | Large numbers in one area outdoors | Fences, woodpiles, thick groundcover edges |
When spraying makes sense
Spot sprays have a place only when traps, barriers, and cleanup aren’t cutting it and you’ve pinned the activity to a tight zone outdoors. Pick a product with earwigs on the label, treat a narrow band at dusk, and avoid blooms. Indoors, sprays don’t keep them from entering, and UC IPM earwig guidance notes that indoor applications aren’t helpful for this pest. Always follow label text to the letter.
Pet smart, kid smart
Store baits and dusts high and closed. Place traps where paws can’t reach them. Rinse tools and cans into a bucket, then pour the rinse onto gravel or soil away from drains if the label allows that use. If you switch products, read the label each time. The EPA label directions explain why: the label lists legal sites, target pests, and safe rates.
Seasonal plan that actually works
Late winter to early spring
- Thin groundcovers and clear last year’s debris.
- Refresh door sweeps and seal hairline cracks.
- Set a few paper traps to gauge activity as nights warm.
Late spring to summer
- Water early, not at dusk. Keep mulch off stems.
- Run oil traps nightly for two weeks where you see feeding.
- Dust a dry band along slabs before a warm spell.
Late summer to fall
- Harvest fruit and veggies on time.
- Raise stored wood and gear off the ground.
- Roll a final set of paper traps to catch stragglers.
Troubleshooting stubborn hotspots
Damp crawlspace
Vent well, add a vapor barrier, and route downspouts away from footings. Pull soil back from siding so it doesn’t touch wood.
Foundation beds that swarm at night
Replace thick bark right against the house with a narrow gravel band. Move irrigation heads so they don’t wet the wall. Keep shrubs lifted for airflow under the canopy.
Compost and woodpiles
Keep bins on a pad with airflow underneath. Stack wood on racks, not soil. Place a ring of traps at dusk for a week to drop numbers.
Myths and fast facts
- They don’t crawl into ears. The name comes from old folklore.
- They pinch when handled, but the nip doesn’t carry venom.
- They help by eating aphids, so a few in beds isn’t a crisis.
- Big jumps in numbers often track with extra mulch and heavy watering.
The mix of dry air, tight gaps, wise trapping, and careful use of labeled products lines up with UC IPM earwig guidance and University of Minnesota Extension. Stick with this plan for two weeks and you’ll see the drop.
Garden crops and ornament care
Seedlings and soft greens
Collars cut from drink cups or milk jugs stop bites on lettuce, basil, zinnias, and small brassicas. Press each collar an inch into the soil so gaps don’t form. Water inside the ring so the surrounding soil dries quicker at dusk.
Strawberries and soft fruit
Pick ripe berries at sundown and lift fruit off soil with clean straw or mesh. For young stone fruit, prune low whips that touch the ground. Some growers use sticky bands on smooth trunks to slow climbing. Test on a small patch of bark first, place bands high enough to block pets, and remove residue at the end of the season.
Container gardens
Use feet under planters so bases dry. Set one oil trap per cluster at dusk. If you water daily, add coarse sand on the surface to drain fast, then water in the morning so the top layer dries by nightfall.
Night checks that save time
Set a timer for a ten-minute walk with a flashlight after dark. Scan doorways, low fence lines, and the outer ring of beds. Note where you see the most movement and place traps there the next night. Two or three short checks beat one giant sweep because you build a clear map of travel routes.
If you garden with kids, give them a headlamp and a small jar for soapy water. It turns patrol into a quick game and teaches them why water and clutter draw pests. Keep hands clear of pincers and tip cups into a bucket after the walk.
If numbers jump back
Recheck water and shade
Look for a new leak, a shifted drip line, or a sprinkler that now hits siding. Thick ivy or low juniper can hide a surge. Trim a small window in the densest spots to let air in, then trap along that opening for a week.
Reset edges
Where soil meets slabs, sweep grit out of the seam and reapply a thin band of diatomaceous earth. Pull mulch back from stems and reset plant collars that have lifted. Rotate trap spots so you don’t feed survivors a pattern.
Team up across fences
Talk with a neighbor who waters in the evening or keeps stacked boards along a shared fence. A quick tweak on both sides cuts the nightly inflow to each yard.
Simple budget plan
You don’t need pricey gear. A dehumidifier for one damp room, two packs of door sweeps, a tube of caulk, a small bag of diatomaceous earth, and a handful of tuna cans will carry most homes through peak season. Save a few clean jars for traps. Keep a notepad with dates and trap counts so you can spot wins and slipups fast.
Spend first on dryness and sealing, then on trapping supplies. If you still see clusters after two weeks of steady work, add one small box of bait labeled for earwigs and place it only where you recorded the worst counts.
Quick checklist for two strong weeks
- Day 1: Pull mulch back from stems and walls.
- Day 1: Seal gaps at doors and pipe runs.
- Night 1: Set oil traps and one paper roll per room.
- Morning 2: Clear traps, log counts, and refresh baited dishes.
- Days 2–4: Run dehumidifiers and fans to dry damp rooms.
- Nights 2–7: Move traps toward the highest counts you logged.
- Day 5: Dust a slim, dry band along slabs and sills.
- Day 6: Lift pots on feet and stack wood on racks.
- Night 8: Repeat the flashlight walk and reset trap grids.
- Day 10: If pockets persist outside, place labeled bait at dusk.
- Day 12: Recheck irrigation timing and repair any weepers.
- Day 14: Review notes.