What Is A Push Stick? | Shop Safety Basics

Push stick basics

A push stick is a simple hand tool that lets you feed narrow stock without putting your fingers near a cutting edge. It usually has a long handle and a hooked or bird’s-mouth tip that grips the tail of the workpiece. On table saws, jointers, routers, and band saws, that little hook gives you controlled forward pressure while your hands ride well away from the danger zone.

Regulators and safety bodies call out this aid by name. The U.S. standard for woodworking machines requires push sticks or push blocks to be on hand for jobs that need them (OSHA woodworking machinery requirements), and it defines a push stick in the code. Across the pond, HSE rip-saw guidance calls for sticks around 450 mm long and recommends using one during the last 300 mm of a cut.

Why do shops rely on them? Because blade contact hurts in an instant. Public data show tens of thousands of table-saw injuries in a single year, with fingers taking the brunt (CPSC table-saw injury figures). A habit of reaching for a stick during tight work keeps hands out of that risk window and helps you keep the cut on line.

Common push devices at a glance

Design	What it looks like	Where it shines
Classic push stick	Slim handle with a V- or bird’s-mouth toe that hooks the back corner of the board.	Best for narrow rip cuts at the saw fence; also handy on band saws for tight clearance.
Push block / push shoe	Wider body with a grippy base or heel; often used in pairs on jointers and router tables.	Gives downforce and forward drive on flat beds; keeps palms well above knives.
Offset handle stick	Handle set to one side of the body for better knuckle room next to a high fence.	Useful when the fence is tall or the guard is close; adds clearance for your hand.
Over-the-top guide	Tall “G” or bridge style that straddles the work and presses down as it pushes.	Helps tame thin rips; can span above the blade guard on some setups.

How a push stick works

The toe of the stick sits on the back edge of the board. As you push, the toe bears against that edge while your off hand steers at the fence or holds a second aid. Two actions matter most: forward drive to move the stock through the cut, and downforce to keep it flat so it rides the table and the fence.

Keep the stick low so the toe can’t slip up and over the board. If the cut pinches, pause and reset the setup, never by forcing the feed. A sharp blade, a splitter or riving knife, and a working guard all trim the odds of kickback, while a featherboard can add steady side pressure when the fence is set close.

Anatomy of a good push stick

Small details make a stick feel planted and predictable. Use these cues when you shape or shop for one:

• Handle: tall enough for a full grip, with a rounded edge that won’t rub your knuckles at the fence.
• Shank: slim toward the front so it clears the guard and keeps your hand high above the work.
• Toe: a clean bird’s-mouth notch that bites the back corner without bruising the wood.
• Sole: a slight bevel so the stick glides over small chips instead of catching.
• Heel pad: optional sandpaper or thin rubber to add bite on slick faces.
• Length: reach that lets you finish the cut without leaning over the blade.

Using a push stick on table saws

Rip work is where the tool earns its keep. Any time the fence is close to the blade, reach for a stick. The stick takes over as your trailing hand once the board moves past the front teeth.

Here’s a clean routine that keeps the cut under control:

1. Set the fence and confirm the guard, splitter, or riving knife sits in line with the blade.
2. Stand slightly left of the blade path so you’re not in line with any kickback.
3. Start the cut with your lead hand guiding at the fence; keep the board tight to the table.
4. Place the toe of the stick on the back corner as the trailing end nears the blade.
5. Push through with steady pressure; keep the stick low and your wrist relaxed.
6. Finish the last 300 mm or so with the stick only; never reach over or behind the blade to grab offcuts.

Mistakes to avoid

• Letting the toe ride high so it slips off the board. Keep it low and hooked.
• Grabbing offcuts near the blade. Let the waste fall free or push it clear once the blade stops.
• Crowding the blade path with your body. Stand to the side of the cut.
• Using a damaged stick. Replace any tool with a split handle or a chewed toe.
• Feeding a jointer with a thin stick. Use two blocks so your palms stay well above the knives.

Push stick vs push block: pick the right aid

Both tools shield your hands, but they shine in different spots. A stick hooks the tail of a narrow rip where space is tight near the fence. A block spreads load over a larger patch and gives more downforce on flat beds.

On a jointer, two rubber-soled blocks let you press down and forward across the knives while the guard swings shut over the rest of the cutterhead. On router tables, blocks or a bridge-style guide help pin the work to the top as you move past the bit. At a band saw, a slim stick steers curves and keeps fingertips clear of the teeth.

You can mix and match. For an extra-thin rip, pair a fence-side featherboard with an over-the-top guide so the work stays flat and tight to the fence, then finish the pass with a second stick if needed.

When a different aid makes more sense

A stick shines for narrow rips. For crosscuts, a sled or miter gauge gives a square guide path, and a hold-down keeps hands clear. For full sheets or long boards, use an outfeed stand and a helper to manage weight so the board doesn’t pivot or bind.

Non-through cuts and dadoes demand full blade guarding and firm workholding. Use a sled, a stop, and clamps where they apply, then bring in a stick only for the final push past the teeth.

Make or buy a push stick

You can cut one from scrap in minutes, or pick up a commercial set. A home-made version gives you the shape you like and a no-worry tool you can trim or replace without a second thought.

Size and shape: a length around 450 mm gives reach and control, with a handle that fits your palm. The toe needs a crisp notch that will hook the back corner; many woodworkers use a shallow angle so the toe bites without digging in. Thickness near the handle can be about 12–19 mm, tapering toward the toe so it slides beside the fence.

Material: plywood or hardwood offcuts work well. Avoid knots and wild grain near the toe. If you add a sandpaper pad or thin rubber at the sole of a block-style aid, it will grab the stock with lighter hand force.

Finish and color: break sharp edges so the stick won’t catch on the fence. A bright paint or tape wrap makes it easy to spot. Store a few by each machine so you never reach for the work with bare hands out of habit.

Quick build plan

1. Trace a profile with a long handle, a wide heel for your palm, and a pointed toe with a shallow bird’s-mouth notch.
2. Cut the outline on a band saw or jigsaw, then smooth the edges with a file and sandpaper.
3. Bevel the sole lightly so it glides over the table and past the fence without rubbing.
4. Add a small heel or adhesive grip near the toe if you want extra bite on slick stock.
5. Label it for the machine you use most and hang it within reach of the start switch.

Sizing tips and dimensions

Stick size is flexible, but small patterns tend to leave hands too close, and giant ones feel clumsy. Aim for a simple range that feels natural across machines:

• Length: about forearm length so you can finish a pass without leaning.
• Handle height: high enough for a full fist, with a flat at the top for control.
• Toe: thin at the tip so it slides under guards, with a notch deep enough to hook a corner cleanly.
• Body width: slim near the fence side, wider at the handle so it won’t twist in your grip.

Cut choices and the right aid

Match the device to the cut so you get drive, downforce, and clearance in the right mix.

Cut type	Recommended device	Setup tips
Narrow rip at the fence	Classic stick or offset-handle stick	Use a featherboard at the fence line; finish the pass with the stick only.
Extra-thin strip	Over-the-top guide plus second stick	Span above the guard if clear; use two aids to keep hands away from the blade path.
Jointer face or edge pass	Two push blocks	Rubber soles give grip and downforce across the knives; keep palms above the cutterhead.
Router table profiling	Block or bridge-style guide	Hold the work flat to the top and press toward the fence; feed against the bit rotation.
Band saw curve work	Slim stick	Steer with the stick while the off hand guides the outside edge; never crowd the teeth.

Smart shop setup

Keep sticks where you reach for them without thinking. A magnetic strip or a small wall rack by the switch works well. Label each tool for the machine and keep backups ready.

Add bright tape marks at the table to remind you where the blade path runs under the guard. That simple cue keeps both hands to the safe side while the stick does the close work.

Care, setup, and habit

A push aid is a wear part. If the toe gets chewed up, file it back to a clean notch or make a new one. Keep a few shapes on a hook near each machine so you never hunt for one mid-cut.

Before each job, check that the blade is sharp, the fence locks square, and the guard and splitter or riving knife are in place. The stick is not a fix for a poor setup. Good alignment makes the feed light and smooth, and that light feel is the cue you want.

Practice on scrap. Run a series of short rips, swapping between a classic stick and a block. You’ll feel how the toe, the handle height, and the sole angle change the way the board tracks. Pick a profile you like and make two more so a spare is always ready.

Training new users

Show the stick on day one and model the posture. Stand to the side, eyes on the fence line, hands apart, and the stick low. Run a few rips on scrap. Keep a “last 300 mm with a stick” rule posted at the saw. Clear language and repetition beat long manuals.

Next steps for safer cuts

Keep the guards working, fit a splitter or riving knife when the cut allows, and use fences, miter gauges, and sleds that track true. Add featherboards where they help, and keep your stance out of the line of fire. With that rhythm set, a push stick becomes second nature, and every narrow cut stays calm and controlled.