Typical causes include a blown fuse, failed relay, worn motor, seized linkage, stripped arm splines, frozen blades, a bad switch, or damaged wiring.
Signs your wipers stopped working
Before touching anything, match the symptom to likely faults. Patterns matter and can shave hours off troubleshooting.
- No movement at all: Often a fuse, relay, switch, broken power feed, or a failed motor.
- Move one sweep then quit: Motor thermal protection tripping, jammed linkage, or ice binding the blades.
- Slow or weak motion: Failing motor, low system voltage, stiff pivots, or heavy drag from worn blades and grime.
- Only one side moves: Stripped arm splines or a failed linkage joint on the idle side.
- Park in the wrong spot: Motor park switch fault, mis-indexed arm on the splines, or control module logic error.
- Chatter, streaks, missed arcs: Blade wear, dirty glass, wrong blade size, or weak arm spring tension.
- Washer sprays but wipers don’t: Switch logic fault, motor circuit issue, or a relay that isn’t energizing.
Why windshield wipers stop working: core causes
Wipers are a simple system on paper: a switch commands a relay, the relay powers a motor, the motor drives a linkage, and arms sweep blades across the glass. In practice, water, dirt, ice, and time work against every joint, bearing, and contact in that path. Here’s what fails most.
Blown fuse or faulty relay
Overcurrent from a jammed mechanism or a short can pop a fuse. A weak relay can click yet pass no current. Fuses live in the cabin or engine bay fuse block; relays sit nearby. Many covers show a map, and a gentle touch with a fuse puller gets them out. If a replacement fuse pops again right away, stop and hunt the underlying jam or short, not just the symptom. The federal wiping standard requires minimum speed capability when the system is healthy, so a fuse that keeps blowing points to a deeper problem, not a design quirk (49 CFR 571.104).
Wiper motor failure
Motors wear brushes, develop dead spots, or lose torque as the gearset dries out. Common tells: silence on all speeds, or a motor that nudges once then stalls. With the arms lifted off the glass, power the switch and listen at the cowl for hums or clicks. Back-probing the connector for battery voltage during a command confirms power delivery; no power pushes you back to the relay or switch.
Linkage or transmission jam
The motor output drives a scissor-like linkage under the cowl. Road grit and old grease stiffen the pivots. Plastic bushings crack and pop off, leaving one arm idle. With the arms removed, try rotating each pivot by hand; any that feel gritty or stuck need service. If a bushing has jumped, the fix is a new bushing or a full linkage assembly, depending on design.
Stripped arm splines
Each wiper arm clamps to a splined pivot. If the nut loosens, the arm can slip under load. You’ll see the pivot move while the arm stays put, or the arm will reset to a new park position after a heavy sweep. Pull the cap, torque the nut, and reset the arm to the park mark. If the arm bore is chewed up, replace the arm.
Seized pivots and worn bearings
Salt and fine dust sneak under the cowl and into pivot sleeves. A pivot that won’t spin freely drags the whole system down, blows fuses, and can cook a motor. Penetrant frees light corrosion, but long-term success comes from cleaning, re-greasing, or replacing the pivot assembly.
Frozen blades or heavy ice
Running the wipers on an icy sheet locks the blades to the glass and can snap a link or blow a fuse. Free the blades before any test. In winter regions, booted winter blades and low-temperature washer fluid prevent repeat seizures (AAA winter checklist).
Faulty switch or control logic
Steering-column stalks carry multiple contacts for speeds, intermittent intervals, and wash commands. Spilled coffee, age, or wear can drop one mode while others still work. Some cars route logic through a body control module; a scan tool can read switch state to confirm the path.
Bad ground or broken wiring
Ground straps near the cowl can corrode. Harnesses flex near hinges and can break one conductor at a time. Tug test the harness while commanding the wipers; intermittent action during movement screams broken strands inside the jacket.
Park switch or sensor faults
The motor has a park circuit that keeps the arms moving to the rest position when you switch off. If that contact fails, the blades stop mid-glass or park too high. Motors with built-in park sensors usually require motor replacement to fix the issue.
Rain sensor quirks
Auto modes rely on an optical sensor at the top of the glass. A greasy haze, a cracked gel pad, or an aftermarket tint strip can confuse it. Clean the area and try manual speeds. If manual works fine, the sensor or its view is the issue.
Fast symptom-to-cause cheat sheet
Use this table as a quick map before you grab tools.
| Symptom | Likely causes | Quick checks |
|---|---|---|
| No movement on any speed | Fuse, relay, switch, motor, power or ground loss | Swap relay, test fuse, verify voltage at motor connector |
| One sweep then quits | Motor overheating, jammed linkage, ice binding | Lift blades, check for free pivots, feel motor temp |
| Slow or weak sweep | Failing motor, stiff pivots, low voltage | Measure battery voltage running, spin pivots by hand |
| Only one arm moves | Stripped splines, popped linkage bushing | Watch pivot while arm stalls, inspect under cowl |
| Parks high or mid-glass | Park switch fault, mis-indexed arm | Re-seat arm at park mark, test park function |
| Chatter and streaks | Worn blades, dirty glass, wrong size | Clean glass, measure blade length, replace inserts |
| Washer works, wipers don’t | Switch logic path, relay, motor circuit | Scan switch state, swap relay, power test at motor |
Safe first checks before any fix
Park on level ground, set the brake, and switch the ignition off before hands go near the cowl. If ice is present, warm the glass and free each blade by hand; never force a stuck blade. Lift each arm gently and feel for smooth spring tension. Look along the lower windshield edge for lost end caps or loose arm nuts. A quick clean with fresh washer fluid helps you see the real wipe pattern the moment the system comes back to life (AAA wet-weather tips).
Check the fuse and relay
Open the fuse box, match the diagram, and pull the wiper fuse. A blown element looks melted or split. Replace once with the exact rating. For the relay, swap with a sister relay that shares the same part number, like a horn relay. If the wipers wake up, buy a fresh relay.
Free the pivots and arms
With arms lifted, wiggle them side to side. Slop points to stripped splines. If they’re tight but feel notchy, the pivots need service. A small dose of penetrant at the pivot sleeve followed by movement often restores freedom long enough to test.
Power test the motor
Back-probe the motor connector with a multimeter. Command low and high speeds. Battery voltage present with no motion means the motor is done. No voltage means you’re upstream at the relay, switch, or a broken feed.
Fixing windshield wipers that stopped working safely
These fixes cover the common faults you can handle in a driveway with hand tools. If your car integrates the wiper system with advanced driver aids or the cowl is packed with fragile trim, a shop visit can save time and risk.
Replace a blown fuse or weak relay
Use the amperage value listed on the lid or in the manual. Seat the new fuse fully. For relays, push until you feel the legs bottom in the socket. If the new fuse pops again, stop and track the jam or short downstream.
Reset a slipped arm on the splines
Pop the cap, mark the park position on the glass with tape, loosen the nut, and pull the arm straight up to release the taper. Re-seat the arm at the tape mark and torque the nut snug. Test a full sweep and fine-tune the park if needed.
Reattach a popped linkage bushing
Remove the cowl cover, locate the disconnected joint, and snap in a replacement bushing kit if your model allows. If the ball stud or socket is ovalled, replace the linkage assembly as a unit for a lasting repair.
Swap a worn motor
Disconnect the battery. Unplug the motor, remove the mounting bolts, and lift the motor and bracket. Index the new motor to park using the service mark, then install. Refit the linkage, torque the fasteners, and test on low first.
Clean glass and fit fresh blades
Even perfect mechanics can’t wipe a grimy windshield. Clay the glass if it feels rough under a finger in a plastic bag, then clean with alcohol. Fit the correct size and style blades for your model. A trusted buying guide helps pick the right insert for your climate (Consumer Reports wiper guide).
Calm down an auto mode
Wipe the rain sensor area inside and out. If the gel pad looks cloudy, switch to manual speeds until you can replace the pad. Many models relearn intermittent timing after a battery pull; check your manual for a timed reset sequence.
What each repair usually takes
Ballpark parts prices and effort ratings vary by model, but this table sets expectations and helps you plan.
| Repair | Typical parts/cost | DIY difficulty (1–5) |
|---|---|---|
| Fuse replacement | Fuse, $2–$10 | 1 |
| Relay replacement | Relay, $10–$35 | 1 |
| Blade replacement | Pair of blades, $15–$40 | 1 |
| Arm re-index on splines | No parts or new arm, $20–$60 | 2 |
| Linkage bushing kit | Bushing kit, $8–$25 | 2 |
| Linkage assembly | Assembly, $60–$160 | 3 |
| Wiper motor | Motor, $80–$250 | 3 |
| Pivot service or replacement | Pivot kit, $40–$120 | 3 |
| Rain sensor gel pad | Pad, $10–$25 | 2 |
When a shop visit makes sense
Many late-model cars tie the wiper park position, washer logic, and auto mode into a central control module. If you’ve ruled out fuses, relays, arms, and linkages, or if the motor runs hot and noisy even with the arms removed, a professional test can save parts-swapping. Glass-mounted rain sensors and cameras for driver aids sit near the wiper sweep; anything bonded to the windshield may need calibration after repairs. The federal wiping standard also sets minimum speed and coverage targets that manufacturers meet from new, so a healthy system should always clear at least the specified area at set cycles per minute (FMVSS No. 104).
Prevent wipers from quitting again
A few habits keep the system smooth, quiet, and ready for any downpour.
Keep the glass clean
Road film builds up fast. A deep clean once a month with a dedicated glass polish removes the layer that chews blades and adds drag. Top off the washer reservoir with season-appropriate fluid and use it often to flush grit.
Replace blades on a schedule
Sun and ozone harden rubber even in dry weather. Many drivers swap blades every six to twelve months. If you live where summers bake or winters freeze, pick inserts made for your conditions, and don’t wait for streaks to start.
Free blades before using the switch
In snow or freezing rain, lift a corner of each blade and break the bond to the glass before switching on the wipers. If the arms try to move while the blade is stuck, the motor and linkage take the hit. Winter blades with a rubber boot can limit ice buildup along the frame and keep the sweep smooth in cold snaps (AAA winter checklist).
Listen for early warnings
Groans at the cowl, slow sweeps, or a park position that drifts higher after a storm all hint at drag, slip, or wear. Address them early and the motor lives longer.
Choose blades that match your windshield
Curved glass and tall arcs can beat up a flat-frame insert. Beam-style blades maintain even pressure across complex glass, while hybrid frames add a spoiler for stability at speed. A trusted guide helps you pick the right style and size for your model (Consumer Reports wiper guide).
A quick note on washer issues
Sometimes the wipers get blamed for a visibility problem that starts with the washer. If the pump buzzes but no fluid hits the glass, check for a split hose near the hood hinge or a clogged nozzle. If the pump is silent, the washer fuse or the pump itself may be at fault. Low fluid in cold weather can freeze in lines; a winter-rated mix prevents that and clears salt faster (AAA DIY car care).
Bottom line: fix the simple things first
Most dead wipers come back with basic steps: free the blades, check the fuse and relay, re-seat a slipped arm, or replace a tired motor. Work from the outside in, test after each move, and aim for a sweep that’s quiet, even, and strong across the glass. When that blade glides cleanly and parks right where it should, you’ll feel the difference the next time clouds open up.