If a refrigerator stops working, secure food, check power and settings, clean coils, test outlets, and call service if it still won’t cool.
Refrigerator Stopped Working: What To Do Right Now
Stay calm and act in a set order. Start with food safety, then basic power checks, then airflow and temperature. That order protects your family and your groceries while you figure out the cause.
Protect Food First
Keep doors closed. Cold air stays in, and the clock starts: a closed refrigerator keeps food safe for about four hours without power. Move milk, meat, fish, eggs, and leftovers to a cooler with ice if the outage may run longer. A full freezer holds safe temperatures up to 48 hours; half-full, about 24. See the federal guidance on food safety during a power outage for details.
Quick Power Checks
Verify the plug is seated and the outlet works. Test the outlet with a lamp or phone charger. Reset any tripped breakers. If the fridge is on a GFCI, press reset. Avoid extension cords; they drop voltage and can overheat. If the outlet is dead, call an electrician before you do anything else.
Control Panel And Settings
Confirm the unit is switched on and not in demo, vacation, or sabbath modes. Set targets to about 37–40°F (3–4°C) in the fresh food section and 0°F (−18°C) in the freezer. If your model shows actual temperatures, watch for change over 30–60 minutes after doors stay closed.
Coils, Vents And Doors
Dusty condenser coils make compressors run hot and weak. Pull the unit forward, unplug it, and clean the coils with a coil brush and vacuum. Many models place coils underneath; a narrow wand helps. See Energy Saver’s guide to cleaning the condenser coils. Inside, clear air vents and avoid packing food tight against the back wall. Check door gaskets for gaps and crumbs, then close a strip of paper in the door; light resistance signals a good seal.
Rapid Triage Table: Symptom, Checks, Meaning
| Symptom | What To Check | What It Likely Means |
|---|---|---|
| No lights, no sound | Outlet with lamp; breaker; GFCI; power cord | Power loss or bad cord; call a pro if outlet tests good |
| Lights on, no humming | Control panel on; temperatures set; door switch | Settings or door switch issue; if still silent, control fault |
| Clicks every few minutes | Condenser coils dirty; condenser fan spinning; room temp | Overheating compressor or start device fault |
| Runs nonstop, still warm | Coils caked; vents blocked; door not sealing; frost build-up | Airflow or sealed-system trouble; service likely |
| Freezer cold, fridge warm | Evaporator fan; damper door; iced-over vent | Fan failure or airflow blockage |
| Water under crisper | Defrost drain clogged; level of the cabinet | Drain cleaning needed; re-level front legs |
| Hot sides or door edge | Condenser fan; clearance from walls | Normal warmth if mild; too hot points to airflow issues |
When The Refrigerator Has Power But Won’t Cool
If lights work and the control shows set temperatures, the next step is airflow and heat removal. Compressors move heat to the coils; fans move air across those coils and through the freezer and fresh food compartments.
Listen, Feel, And Look
Stand beside the unit. Do you hear the condenser fan at the back and the evaporator fan inside the freezer? Feel gentle airflow from freezer vents. Peek behind the lower rear panel; a quiet fan with a hot compressor needs fast attention. No fan, no cooling. A loud buzz followed by a click points to a start relay or a struggling compressor.
Check For Ice Build-Up
Thick frost on the freezer back panel signals a defrost system problem. That ice blocks airflow to the fridge section. Power the unit off, prop the door open, and let the frost melt. Do not chip ice with tools; you can puncture lines. Once thawed, restart and plan a service visit to replace the failed part that manages defrost.
Clear The Vents And Balance The Load
Leave space around vents inside the freezer and fridge. A packed fridge traps warm pockets; a moderately filled freezer holds cold better than an empty one. Use bins to keep gaps between items so air can circulate.
Door Seals And Leveling
Worn gaskets leak cold air. Clean them with warm soapy water and inspect for tears. If the door swings open or won’t close on its own, adjust the front legs so the case leans back a touch. That helps the seal pull tight.
Signs Of A Bad Outlet Or Cord
Test on a different kitchen circuit with a short, appliance-rated extension only for diagnosis, then return to the wall outlet. If it starts there, the original outlet or breaker needs repair. Do not leave an extension in place.
Reset That Actually Helps
Unplug for five minutes, plug back in, and listen for fans and a smooth start. One reset is enough.
DIY Fixes You Can Safely Try
Clean The Defrost Drain
Water under the crisper or ice sheets in the freezer often trace back to a clogged drain. With power off, clear slush in the drain trough and flush with warm water until it flows into the pan below.
Replace A Clogged Filter
A spent water filter can slow the ice maker and freeze the fill tube. Swap the filter and seat it firmly.
Give The Compressor A Fair Shot
Leave an inch on the sides and a few inches above unless your manual says otherwise. Reinstall the rear panel after cleaning; it channels air across the coils.
Common Sounds And What They Mean
Soft hum: normal compressor. Whoosh: fan airflow. Single click: start relay. Rapid clicking: start device or a compressor that cannot start. Gurgles after a cycle: refrigerant movement. Grinding or a chirp: a dry fan motor.
Power Outage Steps For Safe Food
Track time. If power is out up to four hours and doors stay closed, food in the fridge section is generally safe. Past that mark, move perishables into a cooler packed with ice. A full freezer can hold safe temperatures up to 48 hours; a half-full freezer, about 24. The public guidance linked above lists safe time limits and what to toss.
Use Thermometers
Place an appliance thermometer in both sections. At restoration, check numbers: 40°F (4°C) or below in the fridge and 0°F (−18°C) or below in the freezer. If any perishable food was above 40°F for four hours or more, it belongs in the trash.
Smart Moves During An Outage
Group items, keep doors closed, and avoid opening for checks. If you expect a long outage, transfer a few top-priority items to a well-insulated cooler with plenty of ice or gel packs. Keep raw meat sealed and placed low to avoid drips onto ready-to-eat food.
Food Decisions After An Outage
| Item Or Condition | Keep Or Discard | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Milk, soft cheese, yogurt | Discard if above 40°F for 4+ hours | Smell test cannot guarantee safety |
| Cooked leftovers | Discard if above 40°F for 4+ hours | Includes soups, casseroles, rice |
| Raw meat, poultry, seafood | Discard if above 40°F for 4+ hours | Watch for partial thaw; ice crystals mean refreezing is okay |
| Hard cheese, butter | Usually keep if still looks and smells normal | Keep cold on ice until power returns |
| Condiments (ketchup, mustard, pickles) | Usually keep | High acid and salt slow bacterial growth |
| Fruits and vegetables (whole) | Usually keep | Cut or peeled items follow the 4-hour rule |
When To Call For Service
Call a qualified technician when you see repeated clicking with no cooling, a silent compressor that stays hot, fans that never spin, or brown, burnt odors. Water on the floor after a thaw can just be a clogged drain, but recurring puddles point to a blocked drain line or a cracked pan. If the unit trips the breaker twice, stop and seek electrical service.
Maintenance That Extends Refrigerator Life
Keep Coils Clean
Plan a coil cleaning every six months, more often if you have pets. Clean the condenser fan and the floor dust bunnies while you are back there. Good airflow keeps compressor temperatures within range.
Set Practical Temperatures
Target 37–40°F for the fridge and 0°F for the freezer. Use appliance thermometers, since control panels can read a few degrees off. Colder is not always better; it forces longer run times without solving airflow issues.
Mind Clearance And Level
Leave space at the back and above the cabinet per your manual. Tight spaces trap heat. Level the case so doors seal and drawers slide without binding.
Gaskets, Shelves, And Vents
Replace torn gaskets. Wipe spills so sugary residue does not glue the seal to the frame. Keep the return vents visible and free.
Ice Maker Checks
When the freezer is cold but cubes stop dropping, lift and lower the shut-off arm to reset, then wait a cycle. Inspect the fill tube for ice from a slow trickle; a thaw with warm water clears it. Replace the filter if water flow is weak. If the tray never fills even with good flow, the inlet valve or the ice maker head may need service.
Quick Reference Checklist
- Secure food first; keep doors shut and track time.
- Test the outlet; reset breakers and any GFCI.
- Confirm settings and that the unit is actually on.
- Clean condenser coils; verify both fans run.
- Clear vents; check gaskets; level the cabinet.
- Use thermometers to make safe keep-or-toss calls.
- Call service if clicking, no fans, or overheating persists now.