For sanding drywall, use 120–150-grit paper on a hand or pole sander, drywall sanding sponges for corners, and vacuum or wet sanding to keep dust down.
Drywall looks flat only when the light skims across it and nothing catches the eye. The right sanding setup makes that happen. You need the proper abrasives, a tool that fits the task, and a plan for dust control. This guide shows what to use, where each tool shines, and how to get a paint-ready surface without carving up the paper face.
Best Tools To Sand Drywall: Real-World Picks
Here’s a quick view of the common options and when to reach for each one.
| Tool | Best For | Pros & Watch-Outs |
|---|---|---|
| Hand sanding block | Small patches, tight spots, blending | Great control; won’t run away on you. Keep strokes light to avoid cutting through the paper face. |
| Pole sander (manual) | Ceilings, long seams, tall walls | Reaches high with even pressure. Easy to tip a corner; keep the head flat and move with the seam. |
| Vacuum-assisted pole sander | Same jobs with less mess | Catches dust at the head; lighter cleanup. Needs a good hose and filter; don’t set suction so high that it sticks. |
| Drywall sanding sponge | Inside corners, touch-ups | Conforms to angles; easy to feather. Rinse often when wet sanding to keep grit from loading. |
| Corner sanding sponge (beveled) | Sharp inside corners | Two angled faces speed work. Go gentle near tape to avoid fraying an edge. |
| Random orbit drywall sander with vacuum | Large rooms, new board with many joints | Fast and consistent with dust pickup. Stay on low speed and keep it moving to avoid waves. |
| Wet sponge (no grit) | Dust-sensitive spaces and small blends | Almost no airborne dust. Slower; can leave slight texture that needs a light dry pass after it firms up. |
Build A Simple Drywall Sanding Kit
You don’t need a shop full of gear. A small kit covers nearly every room:
- Hand block with 120 and 150 grit sheets
- Pole sander head with pole, plus 120/150 grit paper or screen
- Two sanding sponges: one flat, one corner-beveled
- Vacuum with fine dust filter or a dust-extract sander
- N95 or better respirator, safety glasses, and a cap
- Bright raking light or headlamp for checks
- Microfiber cloth and a damp sponge for wipe-downs
Hand And Pole Sanding Basics
Hand Block For Small Patches
Load a 120 grit sheet for the first pass on a patch. Use short strokes and feather a wide halo around the repair. Once ridges fade, switch to 150 grit and widen the halo again. If you see the paper face darken, you’re close to cutting through; stop and skim a thin coat instead of grinding more.
Pole Sander For Seams And Ceilings
Fit the head with 120 grit and stand so you can move along the seam in long, smooth passes. Keep the pad flat and let the pole float. Flip to 150 grit to finish. A pole head can catch an edge fast, so lead with the short side and avoid lifting mid-stroke.
Movement, Pressure, And Feathering
Work with light pressure. The abrasive should do the work, not your arms. Blend the joint out at least 8–12 inches on each side of a seam and even wider on butt joints. Circles can leave swirls under paint; long inline strokes hide better.
Light Tricks That Expose Flaws
Hold a bright lamp close to the wall and guide the beam along the surface. Shadows reveal humps, pinholes, and scratch marks that a room light misses. Mark them with a pencil, sand or skim, and check again. This habit saves time later when primer exposes every miss.
Controlling Dust While You Sand
Drywall dust is ultra fine and floats everywhere. Capture it at the head when you can. NIOSH guidance shows that vacuum sanding systems can cut exposure by a large margin, which helps the room stay cleaner and helps you breathe easier.
Even with a vacuum, wear an N95 or P100, close doors, and cover returns. A box fan in a window with a filter taped to the intake can pull air out of the room. Skip sweeping at the end; use a vacuum with a fine filter and a damp wipe instead.
Working in a pre-1978 home? Lead paint is a risk during surface prep. Follow the EPA Lead-Safe RRP guidance for containment and cleanup, or hire a certified pro.
Wet Sanding With A Sponge
Wet sanding trades speed for cleaner air. Dampen a drywall sponge, wring it well, and polish the joint with the abrasive side. Rinse often so the face stays clean. Switch to the smooth side to blend. Let it dry, then haze-sand with 150 grit if needed. Wet work softens the outer skin of compound; give it time to firm up before you touch it with paper.
Corners, Fasteners, And Other Trouble Spots
Inside Corners
Use a beveled sponge or fold a 150 grit sheet so the grit faces out. Keep your strokes in the angle, not across it. If you nick the tape edge, stop and touch it with a thin swipe of mud rather than sanding deeper.
Screw Pops And Nail Lines
Knock down the crown over each fastener with 120 grit. If metal shows, stop and add a skim coat. For long lines of screws, set a straightedge light to the surface and sand only the highs. The goal is flat, not hollow.
Butt Joints
These joints sit proud of the board. Sand long and wide, then check with a long level as a gauge. If you can still see a bump across the light, widen the blend with another thin coat instead of digging a trench with the sander.
Smart Grit Choices For Drywall
Grit choices are simple for joint compound. Start with 120 for shaping and ridges, then finish with 150 to remove scratches. On a light skim, you can stay with 150 the whole way. Save 180–220 for a quick scuff of primer before paint, not for raw mud.
Grit Progression That Leaves A Paint-Ready Surface
| Stage | Grit | Where & Why |
|---|---|---|
| First pass on joints and patches | 120 | Knocks down ridges and lap lines without chewing too fast. Good feel on blocks and pole heads. |
| Final pass on joints | 150 | Smooths out 120 scratches and feathers the blend. Also right for light skims. |
| Scuff after primer | 180–220 | Removes raised nap and tiny nibs in the sealer coat so finish paint lays down clean. |
Mesh Screen Or Paper?
Both work. Paper cuts a bit cleaner on small spots and is less likely to leave cross-hatch marks. Screens run cooler on big areas and don’t clog as fast, especially with vacuum heads. If a screen prints, you’re pushing too hard or the head tipped; ease up and keep it flat.
Power Drywall Sanders: When They Help
A wall-and-ceiling sander with a vacuum hose shines on new builds, basements, and any job with many joints. Use 150 grit most of the time. Keep the pad moving and overlap your passes. Set the vacuum so the head glides rather than sticks to the surface. If you see swirl trails under a light, slow the speed and switch to a finer pad or finish by hand.
Prep The Room For Cleaner Work
- Move furniture out; cover what stays with plastic and tape the edges.
- Seal door gaps with painter’s tape and a flap of plastic.
- Cover returns and supply grilles, and shut off the air for the room.
- Lay a drop cloth you can fold, not drag.
- Stage your vacuum, extra sheets, and sponges so you aren’t walking dusty laps.
Best Tools To Use To Sand Drywall: A Quick Workflow
- Switch on a raking light and pencil-mark ridges, dips, and pinholes.
- Start with a hand block and 120 on patches. Use a pole head and 120 on seams and ceilings.
- Blend wide with light strokes. If you hit paper, stop and skim a thin coat.
- Flip to 150 and smooth out scratches. Feather farther than you think you need.
- Sponge corners and tight spots. Wet-sand if dust control matters most.
- Vacuum, wipe, and prime with PVA. Circle any misses, touch them, and kiss with 150 again.
When To Stop Sanding
- Feel: Your hand glides across the joint without a bump at the edges.
- See: The raking light shows no harsh shadow lines across seams or patches.
- Prime: After a PVA coat, only tiny specks remain, not long scratches or proud ridges.
If You Gouge The Paper
Don’t keep sanding. Seal the spot with primer or a stain-blocking sealer, let it dry, then skim with a thin coat of mud. Sand lightly after it sets. Raw paper fuzz soaks up paint and looks rough; sealing first keeps it smooth.
Little Tweaks That Pay Off
- Keep sheets fresh. A dull 120 acts like a clogged 220 and just polishes ridges.
- Use lightweight mud on the last coat. It sands easier and helps you stay in control.
- Work clean. Knock dust off the pole head and block between passes so grit doesn’t scratch tracks.
- Mind the edges. Lead with the short side of a pole head and never jab a corner into the wall.
Primer, Checks, And Quick Fixes
Prime drywall with a PVA sealer before paint. Primer locks down dust and reveals misses you couldn’t see on bare mud. Circle flaws with a pencil, skim tiny dips with lightweight compound, let them dry, and kiss them with 150 grit. Finish with a fast scuff of 180–220 after the primer touch-ups dry. Wipe the walls with a barely damp microfiber and you’re ready for color.
Common Mistakes To Avoid
- Pressing too hard and exposing paper
- Skipping straight from coarse to fine and leaving deep scratches
- Letting the pole head ride on a corner
- Sanding corners across the tape instead of along the angle
- Working without a mask or a vacuum and turning the room into a dust cloud
- Trying to sand a hump flat instead of widening the blend with a thin coat
Finish Strong: A Short Checklist
- Tools chosen for the area: block, pole head, or sponge
- 120 for shape, 150 to finish, 180–220 only after primer
- Vacuum at the head when you can; sponge wet where dust is a problem
- Raking light on every wall and ceiling before and after primer
- Mask on, eyes protected, room closed off and cleaned with a fine filter