Faucet Won’t Stop Dripping | Stop It Fast

That steady drip does more than fray nerves. It wastes water, raises bills, and hints at a small part that’s past its prime. The good news: most leaks come from a handful of low-cost wear items, and a steady, step-by-step plan fixes them fast.

Before grabbing tools, look closely to confirm the leak source. Does water bead from the spout tip, creep around the base, or weep under the handle cap? Each clue maps to a likely culprit you can swap in minutes.

Dripping Faucet That Won’t Stop — Quick Checklist

• Turn off the sink’s supply valves under the cabinet; test that the drip stops.
• Plug the drain with a stopper or cloth so tiny screws don’t vanish.
• Snap a photo of the faucet before disassembly to match parts later.
• Lift the handle, remove the trim, then pull the cartridge or stem straight up.
• Inspect O-rings, washers, and seats; any nicks, flats, or cracks mean replacement.
• Lightly grease new rubber parts with plumber’s grease, not petroleum jelly.

Symptoms, Likely Causes, And First Fixes

Symptom	Likely Cause	What To Try
Drip from spout tip	Worn cartridge, seats, or washer	Replace cartridge or seats; flush valve body; clean aerator
Leak at handle base	Tired O-ring	Swap the O-ring; coat with plumber’s grease
Water around faucet base	Spout O-rings or loose mounting nuts	Replace O-rings; snug the mounting hardware
Spray is uneven	Clogged aerator	Soak aerator in vinegar; rinse and reinstall
Drip slows when handle centered	Cartridge not seated	Reinsert cartridge aligned to tabs; tighten retaining nut
Leak only on hot or cold	Side-specific seal	Replace that side’s seal set or stem

Small leaks add up. The EPA WaterSense program notes that common household leaks waste thousands of gallons each year, and many homes lose 90 or more gallons per day. Fixing a dripping faucet is a quick win for water savings.

Curious what your drip costs? Try the USGS drip calculator to turn drips-per-minute into gallons per day. Even a slow leak can tally surprising numbers over a month.

What Causes A Constant Drip

Cartridge Style (Most Single-Handle)

A plastic or brass cartridge blends hot and cold and seals the flow. Wear on internal seals or the valve seats lets water slip by, so the spout never fully closes. If the handle feels gritty or stiff, sediment may be grinding the seals.

Compression Style (Two Handles With Turn-Down Stems)

These use a rubber washer pressed against a metal seat. A hardened washer or nicked seat keeps water moving, so you get that constant tap-tap. Replacing the washer and, if needed, the seat usually cures it.

Ball And Ceramic Disk Styles

Ball faucets use small springs and rubber seats that flatten with age. Ceramic disk models rely on polished disks plus O-rings that can flatten or crack. Parts kits match brand and model, so carry the old parts to the store for an exact twin.

Fix It Now: Step-By-Step

1) Prep The Area

Clear the cabinet, place a towel to catch drips, and set a small tray for screws. Shut both supply valves, then open the faucet to release pressure.

2) Disassemble The Handle

Pry the index cap, loosen the set screw, and lift the handle. Remove any retaining clip or bonnet nut that holds the cartridge or stem. Note the orientation so reassembly is easy.

3) Pull The Cartridge Or Stem

Wiggle straight up to avoid cracking the body. If it sticks, a cartridge puller turns a tough job into a simple one. Once out, inspect the cartridge, O-rings, and any springs or seats.

4) Replace Wear Parts

Match brand and profile. Install new O-rings, seats, and springs, using a thin film of plumber’s grease. If the spout has base leaks, lift it and swap the two spout O-rings as well.

5) Flush And Reassemble

Briefly crack the supply valves with the cartridge out to flush grit, then close them. Reinsert the cartridge in the same orientation, secure the clip or nut, reinstall the handle, and tighten hardware evenly.

6) Test And Fine-Tune

Open the valves slowly. Run water warm and cold, then center the handle. Check the spout, handle base, and cabinet for any seep. If the spray is odd, clean the aerator.

Tricks That Solve Stubborn Drips

Seat Dressing

If a compression faucet still drips with a new washer, the brass seat may be pitted. A simple seat wrench lets you remove it for replacement. Some seats can be lightly dressed with a seat tool to smooth minor pits.

Hard Water Buildup

Scale can block parts from sealing. Soak the cartridge, seats, and aerator in white vinegar, then rinse well. Avoid harsh acids that chew rubber parts and finish.

Handle Play Or Wobble

Loose retaining nuts or set screws let water sneak past seals. Snug them evenly. If the handle still feels loose, look for a cracked adapter and replace it.

When The Drip Persists

High Supply Pressure

Extra pressure can force water past new seals. If other fixtures hammer or hiss, ask a licensed plumber to check static pressure and any pressure-reducing valve.

Worn Shutoff Valves

Angle stops under the sink can seep and mimic a faucet leak. Wipe them dry, then watch for new moisture while the faucet is on. If they weep, replace the valve or the packing.

Corroded Valve Seat Or Body

Deep corrosion inside the faucet can keep any new seal from working. At that point, a full faucet replacement makes more sense than chasing parts.

Costs, Time, And When To Call A Plumber

Fix	DIY Time	Typical Parts Cost
Cartridge swap	20–40 minutes	$15–$60
O-rings and seats	15–30 minutes	$5–$15
Compression washer + seat	25–45 minutes	$6–$20
New angle stop	30–60 minutes	$10–$25
Full faucet replacement	60–120 minutes	$60–$250+

Call a pro when the body is cracked, shutoffs won’t close, corrosion is heavy, or access is tight. If you live in a condo or a building with shared lines, check house rules before closing valves beyond your unit.

Parts And Tools You’ll Be Glad You Have

• Replacement cartridge or stem matched to brand and model
• Assorted O-rings, seats, springs, and compression washers
• Plumber’s grease and thread seal tape
• Hex key set, Phillips and flat screwdrivers
• Adjustable wrench, channel-lock pliers, and a small socket set
• Needle-nose pliers and a utility knife
• Cartridge puller and a seat wrench for stubborn parts

Prevention: Keep A New Faucet Dry

Use Gentle Handle Pressure

Slamming handles shortens the life of seals. Smooth, light motion is enough to close modern valves tight.

Clean The Aerator Twice A Year

Mineral grit collects at the tip. Unscrew the aerator, soak in vinegar, brush with a soft toothbrush, and reinstall.

Exercise The Shutoffs

Turn the angle stops under the sink closed and open a couple of times each season. This keeps packing fresh and makes future repairs painless.

Pick Quality Parts

When replacing a faucet, look for trusted brands and solid cartridges. If you want better water use, choose models with a labeled high-efficiency aerator.

Tap Still Dripping? A Simple Plan

1. Shut water, open the faucet, and confirm the drip stops.
2. Disassemble, replace the obvious wear parts, and reassemble.
3. If the leak remains, swap the full cartridge or stem.
4. Still leaking? Inspect seats and shutoffs, then consider a full replacement.

Your faucet keeps dripping because a seal or mating surface isn’t closing. With fresh parts, a little grease, and patient reassembly, that steady tap-tap turns silent again.