Drilling into concrete requires a hammer drill, a carbide masonry bit, and steady pressure, starting slowly to seat the bit before speeding up.
Standard drill bits spin uselessly against it, and the temptation to lean harder just rounds off the tip. The fix for drilling into concrete is a matter of three things: the right tool, the right bit, and the right technique.
What You Need Before You Start
You can’t shortcut this step. The tools do the work, and the wrong one will have you at the store before the anchor is in.
- A hammer drill or rotary hammer — the hammering action pounds the bit forward while it spins.
- A carbide masonry bit sized to match the anchor or screw you’re installing, per Home Depot’s and Lowe’s guidance.
- Safety goggles and a dust mask — concrete dust is fine, silica-heavy, and brutal on lungs.
- A tape measure and marker for the hole location, plus a depth stop or masking tape for marking the bit.
For a solid hammer drill recommendation ranked by hands-on testing, check our roundup of the best concrete drills.
How to Drill Into Concrete: Step by Step
The technique below follows the standard workflow confirmed by Lowe’s and Home Depot’s how-to guides. It works on walls, floors, and ceilings.
- Mark the spot.
- Check for utilities. Scan for wires, pipes, and rebar before you commit.
- Set the depth. Adjust the depth stop so the hole runs about 1/4 inch deeper than the fastener. No depth stop? Wrap a strip of masking tape around the bit at the right length as a visual cue.
- Install the carbide masonry bit. Seat it fully in the chuck.
- Start at low speed. Position the drill perpendicular to the surface. Let the bit establish a small guide hole before you add power.
- Increase speed and apply steady pressure. Let the hammer action cut.
- Clear the dust. Pull the bit out periodically to let debris fall away from the cutting edge.
- Finish with cleanup. Vacuum or blow out the hole completely before installing the anchor, so it seats fully.
The Common Mistakes That Ruin The Hole
Most failed holes trace back to one of these five errors, each easy to fix once you know what to look for.
| Mistake | What Goes Wrong |
|---|---|
| Standard drill, no hammer mode | Bit skates and burns; hole never forms. |
| Wrong bit type | Twist bits dull instantly against aggregate. |
| Starting at high speed | Bit wanders across smooth concrete and makes an oval hole. |
| Pushing too hard | Overheats the tip and shortens bit life. |
| Skipping dust removal | Anchor can’t seat; hole clogs and the bit binds. |
If the bit drifts on a smooth surface, use a center punch or nail to make a small indent first — it gives the tip a seat and keeps the hole exactly where you marked it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a regular drill instead of a hammer drill?
The hammering action is what breaks up the aggregate; borrow or buy a hammer drill for anything thicker than a few millimeters.
What happens if I drill into rebar?
You’ll feel the bit suddenly stop cutting and hear a metallic screech. Back out, and move the hole at least an inch away. A rebar locator before drilling prevents the problem entirely.
How deep should my hole be for a concrete anchor?
References & Sources
- Home Depot. “How to Drill Into Concrete.” Covers tool selection, depth-setting, and step-by-step drilling technique.