On a Dart with power but no crank, start with the battery, grounds, starter fuse/relay, brake or clutch switch, and shifter-cable recall.
If your dash lights up, the radio works, yet the engine stays silent, you’re chasing a classic no-crank condition. This guide gives clear causes, fast checks, and safe next steps tailored to the 2013–2016 Dodge Dart, with notes that also help other trims and engines. You’ll find a quick triage list, a deeper diagnostic flow, and two simple tables you can use in the driveway.
Dart Won’t Start With Power: Quick Symptom Map
Match what you hear and see with the likely path. Use this as your first fork in the road.
| What You Notice | Most Likely Areas | Next Action |
|---|---|---|
| Single click, no crank | Weak battery, corroded terminals, starter relay, starter solenoid | Voltage test, clean posts, swap relay, tap starter to confirm |
| Silence, dash lights OK | Brake/clutch switch, ignition/start button circuit, relay/fuse, range switch (auto) | Press pedal hard, try Neutral, check fuse/relay, read codes |
| Cranks strong, won’t fire | Fuel delivery, spark, immobilizer | Scan for codes, listen for pump prime, check for spark |
| Starts only in Neutral | Transmission range sensor/linkage alignment | Try Neutral consistently, inspect linkage, scan for range codes |
| Shifter feels off, gear shown doesn’t match lever | Shift-cable bushing/retention at transmission (auto) | Verify recall status; do not drive until fixed |
First Things First: Battery And Cables
Lights and infotainment draw a fraction of the current the starter needs. A battery can light the dash and still sag the moment you turn the key or push the button. Start here:
Fast Battery Check
- Measure across the posts with the engine off. A healthy charge reads near 12.6 V. Under load while cranking, anything dipping below ~9.6 V points to a weak unit.
- Clean the terminals. Bright metal on both posts and inside the clamps matters. Tighten until you cannot twist the clamp by hand.
- Inspect the ground strap from battery to body and the heavy cable to the starter. A loose or green crusted connection steals voltage.
If the voltage and cables check out yet you still get only a click, try a known-good jump pack. If it cranks with a jump, plan on a battery or charging-system test.
Starter Circuit: Fuse, Relay, And The Motor Itself
The Dart routes the start command through a fuse and a relay before the solenoid and starter motor. A single click with no spin often lands here.
Fuse And Relay Basics
- Locate the starter fuse and relay in the power distribution box. Pull and inspect the fuse; swap the relay with a matching one in the panel to test fast.
- Listen for a sharper click from the relay area when you turn the key. No click can mean a dead relay or no control signal.
- If the relay swaps good and power reaches the solenoid, the starter may be dragging or seized. A gentle tap on the starter body while a helper turns the key can wake a dead spot long enough to confirm the diagnosis.
Brake Or Clutch Switch: The Hidden Gatekeeper
Push-button and keyed Darts need a pedal signal to allow cranking. If the switch fails or the pedal isn’t registering a full press, you’ll get power with no starter action.
What To Try
- Press the brake firmly (auto) or fully depress the clutch (manual). Watch for brake lights. No lights suggests the switch or its circuit isn’t sending the “OK to start” signal.
- Try again while wiggling the pedal slightly. Intermittent switches often respond to a different pedal angle before failing for good.
- Scan for body or powertrain codes. Even budget Bluetooth scanners can show a pedal switch fault.
Shifter And Range Sensor Checks (Automatic)
Park/Neutral validation sits between the start request and the relay. If the car thinks it isn’t in Park or Neutral, it will refuse to crank.
Neutral Trick And Linkage Tell
- Hold the key in the start position while pulling the lever into Neutral. If it cranks only in Neutral, the range sensor or linkage alignment needs attention.
- If the lever position doesn’t match the cluster, or the lever feels loose, inspect the shift-cable end at the transmission.
- Owners of 2013–2016 autos should check recall coverage for the shift-cable bushing. Use the official Mopar recall lookup with your VIN. If covered, the fix is free at a dealer.
Immobilizer, Fob, And Push-Button Start Tips
With a proximity key, a weak fob battery or poor detection can block the start request even when the dash wakes up.
- Hold the fob against the start button and press. Many systems read the fob passively at contact.
- Try your spare fob. If it cranks with the spare, swap the coin cell in the original.
- Watch for security light behavior on the cluster. A flashing key icon hints at a communication or key authorization fault.
Deeper Dive: Step-By-Step Diagnostic Flow
Work through this sequence to isolate the fault without random parts swapping.
1) Verify Battery Health Under Load
Measure static voltage, then watch the meter while a helper turns the key. A drop under ~9.6 V confirms the battery can’t supply starter current. Replace or charge and retest. If the voltage holds yet there’s still no crank, move on.
2) Confirm Clean, Tight Grounds And High-Current Paths
Check the negative post to body ground and engine ground. Add a temporary jumper lead from battery negative to a bare engine point as a test. If it suddenly cranks, repair the ground path.
3) Check Starter Fuse And Swap The Relay
Pull the starter fuse for inspection. Swap the starter relay with a same-part-number neighbor. If the car cranks, replace the relay. If not, continue.
4) Bypass Test At The Starter (Only If Safe)
With the car in Park or Neutral and the parking brake set, briefly feed 12 V to the solenoid control lug. If the motor spins the engine, the starter is healthy and the issue sits upstream. If it only clicks or stays dead, the starter or solenoid has failed.
5) Validate Brake/Clutch Switch Input
Confirm brake lights work (auto) or monitor a scan tool live-data line for clutch switch state (manual). No change in state while you press the pedal points to a switch or wiring fault.
6) Prove Park/Neutral Input
Try starting in Neutral. If Neutral works but Park doesn’t, the range sensor or cable alignment is off. If neither works and the shift feel is sloppy or the gear shown doesn’t match, inspect the cable end and bushing at the transmission.
Recall Watch: Shift-Cable Bushing On 6-Speed Automatics
Many autos from this run had a recall for a shift-cable bushing that can degrade, detach, and leave the transmission in a gear that doesn’t match the lever. That can block a start request or allow rollaway if the parking pawl isn’t engaged. The official campaign covers 2013–2016 cars with the 6-speed automatic and is identified as V34 (NHTSA 19V-293). You can read the recall bulletin and then check your VIN:
- Recall bulletin: Transmission Shift Cable Bushing (V34 / 19V-293)
- VIN lookup: Mopar recall search
If coverage applies or a prior fix didn’t hold, schedule a dealer appointment. Do not rely on Park until the cable and bushing are verified.
When The Engine Cranks But Won’t Fire
Plenty of owners see strong cranking with no start. That’s a separate branch:
- Listen for the fuel pump prime at key-on. No hum points to a pump circuit issue.
- Scan for codes. A stored P03xx misfire, cam/crank sensor code, or security fault directs the next step.
- Try a brief throttle hold at ~25% while cranking to clear a mild flood.
Common Faults By Symptom
Use this second table deeper into your checks to match outcomes with likely repairs.
| Confirmed Symptom/Test Result | What Usually Fixes It | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Voltage dips under 9.6 V while cranking | Battery replacement or charge system repair | Test alternator output after the new battery goes in |
| Starter spins with direct 12 V; won’t on the key | Relay, fuse, pedal switch, range input repair | Trace control signal from relay back to inputs |
| No brake lights; no crank | Brake switch or wiring repair | Switch failure blocks the start request |
| Starts only in Neutral | Range sensor or linkage adjustment | Check for water or corrosion at the connector |
| Shifter position doesn’t match cluster | Shift-cable bushing/cable repair | Verify V34 recall status by VIN |
| Strong lights, single click, starter dead on bench | Starter/solenoid replacement | Heat-soak failures can be intermittent |
Tools That Make Diagnosis Easier
- 12 V jump pack: Confirms a supply issue in seconds.
- Digital multimeter: Reads battery state and checks for control voltage at the relay and solenoid.
- OBD-II scanner: Shows pedal switch state, range input, and immobilizer flags.
- Dielectric grease and a small wire brush: Keeps fresh connections from corroding.
Safety Notes You Shouldn’t Skip
- Set the parking brake and keep the car in Park or Neutral before any electrical jump or starter test.
- Keep hands, hair, and clothing clear of belts and fans while cranking.
- If the shifter linkage is suspect, chock the wheels. Don’t trust Park until a tech inspects the cable end.
When To Call A Pro
Once you’ve verified battery, cables, fuses, relays, and basic inputs, you’re into signal tracing and control-module logic. At that point, a shop with a wiring diagram and a bidirectional scan tool can pinpoint the break faster than parts swapping can. That’s especially true if the start request never reaches the relay, or if the car shows intermittent security or range faults.
Printable Checklist
Do These In Order
- Measure battery at rest and while cranking; clean and tighten both battery cables.
- Inspect and re-seat the starter fuse; swap the starter relay with a matching one.
- Press brake or clutch firmly; verify brake lights; try starting in Neutral.
- Check recall status for the shift-cable bushing with your VIN; schedule repair if open.
- Bypass-test the starter solenoid briefly to separate motor vs. control-side faults.
- Scan for codes and view pedal and range inputs in live data.
What This Guide Used For Accuracy
Starting logic on this platform runs through pedal inputs, range validation, and a relay before reaching the solenoid. The recall linked above explains the cable issue that can keep the car from recognizing Park, which blocks the start request. The VIN lookup lets you confirm whether a dealer fix applies at no charge.
Bottom Line Fix Path
Most owners solve a no-crank with a clean, tight battery path or a fresh relay. If those pass, pedal switches and the range input are next in line. For autos from the affected years, the shift-cable bushing is the wildcard—verify it with the official recall tools before replacing anything else. With a simple meter and this flow, you can pinpoint the fault fast and avoid guesswork.