A barebones keyboard is a kit with the case, PCB, and plate already built, sold without switches or keycaps, so you finish it yourself.
A barebones keyboard arrives as a partial mechanical keyboard: you get the frame, circuit board, mounting plate, and usually the stabilizers, but nothing that actually types. Buyers supply their own switches and keycaps. The appeal is choosing the exact feel, sound, and look you want instead of accepting whatever a finished board ships with.
The catch is that the box won’t work until you buy the two missing pieces, and if you pick the wrong ones, they won’t fit.
What Actually Comes In The Box?
A barebones kit typically ships with the case or frame, PCB, plate, and stabilizers; some models add foam or a cable. It does not include switches and keycaps, almost without exception.
That split is the point of the category: the kit maker handles the parts that are hard to manufacture and install, leaving the two components most personal to the buyer up to you. Because included extras vary by model, the product page or manual is the only reliable source for your specific box.
Two examples show how differently kits can be dressed:
- Corsair’s MAKR 75, which Corsair calls a barebones DIY keyboard kit, brings a full aluminum frame, gasket mounting, and 8000Hz polling.
- Kinesis TKO Barebones ships as a 60% kit with a standard layout, aluminum plate, dual-zone RGB, an optional triple spacebar, and four-way tenting and tilting.
Neither includes switches or keycaps. Kits also differ in configuration: some rely on a vendor app or web-based configurator, others lean toward QMK/VIA-style customization, and which applies to your board must be verified on its product page or manual before you buy.
Which Parts Do You Still Need To Buy?
You need switches and keycaps, and on a wireless-capable kit you may also need to think about how it pairs and charges. Both are separate purchases, and both must match the board.
Switches are the mechanical units under each key. On a hot-swap board, you align its pins with the PCB sockets and press down until it seats. Hot-swap assembly is common, meaning you can change switches later without soldering.
Keycaps are the plastic tops you touch. They come in different profiles and materials, and buying them is a taste decision more than a technical one, as long as they fit your kit’s layout.
Power is the other check. Some kits are wired only; others run wired plus 2.4GHz wireless and Bluetooth. Wired-only and wireless-capable kits have different power and pairing needs, so confirm your host device and OS support the mode you plan to use before ordering.
When comparing kits and switches, seeing real prices and layouts side by side makes the decision faster — our tested roundup of the best barebones keyboard kits lays out the options worth building.
TKO vs MAKR 75: Key Specs At A Glance
| Feature | Kinesis TKO Barebones | Corsair MAKR 75 |
|---|---|---|
| Layout | 60% | 75% |
| Frame And Plate | Aluminum plate | Full aluminum frame, gasket mount |
| Lighting | Dual-zone RGB | Not specified on kit page |
| Adjustability | Four-way tenting and tilting | Gasket-mounted feel |
| Notable Extra | Optional triple spacebar | 8000Hz polling |
| Switches Included | No | No |
| Keycaps Included | No | No |
What Trips Up First-Time Builders?
The most common mistake is buying switches that don’t match the PCB socket type or layout, leaving parts that won’t seat. The second is assuming the kit includes switches and keycaps, when it almost never does.
Layout size is the other thing beginners underestimate. Kinesis’ TKO is a 60% board, which drops the number pad and arrow cluster. Corsair’s MAKR 75 uses a 75% layout, smaller than full-size but tighter than 60%. Pick a size that matches how you actually type, not just how it looks in photos.
Razer’s first barebones kit drew praise from PC Gamer as a win for keyboard enthusiasts, and noted it costs less than Corsair’s. Razer isn’t the only budget-minded option, but the comparison is a useful reminder that kit prices vary widely for similar hardware.
Before you order, run through this list:
- Confirm the kit ships without switches and keycaps, not just marketed as “barebones.”
- Check the PCB socket type and match your switches to it.
- Match keycap profile and layout to your board size.
- Verify wired versus wireless support against your device and OS.
- Find out whether configuration uses a vendor app or QMK/VIA-style software.
Get those five right and the build is straightforward: seat the stabilizers if not pre-installed, press each switch into its socket, then push the keycaps on. The board works the moment the last keycap clicks down.
FAQs
Do I need soldering tools for a barebones kit?
Usually not. Most barebones kits use hot-swap sockets, so switches press into place by hand and can be swapped later without a soldering iron. A few kits still require soldering, so check the product page before buying if you want to avoid that step.
Can I use any switches in a barebones keyboard?
No. Switches must match the PCB socket type and the board’s layout. Buying mismatched switches is the most common beginner error, resulting in parts that won’t seat. Verify compatibility against the product page or manual before ordering.
Is a barebones keyboard cheaper than a finished one?
Not always. A barebones kit can cost less than a comparable prebuilt board, but once you add switches and keycaps the total often lands close to a finished keyboard. The savings show up when you already own spare parts or want a specific combination you can’t buy assembled.
References & Sources
- Corsair. “MAKR 75 DIY Barebones Keyboard Kit” Official product page listing the aluminum frame, gasket mounting, and 8000Hz polling.
- Kinesis. “TKO Barebones 60% Keyboard Kit” Official product page detailing the 60% layout, aluminum plate, RGB, and tenting options.
- PC Gamer. “Razer’s first barebones kit is a big win for keyboard nerds” Covers Razer’s first barebones kit and its price relative to Corsair’s.