A stuck Reverse indicator with no crank often points to a start-in-gear safety fault or a shifter cable issue; try Neutral, then check the brake switch.
If the selector shows Reverse and the engine won’t crank, the car’s safety interlocks are likely blocking the starter. Modern vehicles only allow cranking in Park or Neutral. When the system “thinks” the gearbox isn’t in a safe position—or the shifter linkage isn’t where the lever says—the starter relay never gets the green light. Below you’ll find quick checks you can do at the curb, the parts that commonly fail, and clear steps to get moving without damaging the drivetrain.
Why A Vehicle Shows Reverse And Refuses To Crank
Several parts can cause a no-start while the indicator sits on R. The most common are the transmission range/neutral switch, the shifter cable or bushing, the brake-pedal switch, and a weak battery that drops voltage under load. Less common are a failed starter relay, a blown fuse, or a jammed linkage at the transmission.
Fast Checks You Can Do In Minutes
- Move the lever to Neutral and try starting. Hold the brake, then press the start button or turn the key while gently nudging the lever.
- Press the brake firmly. If the brake lights don’t turn on, suspect the brake-pedal switch.
- Cycle the key or start button to OFF, then ON. Listen for a click at the relay when you attempt to start.
- If equipped, use the shift-lock override slot near the shifter to release it and re-select Neutral or Park.
- Check battery terminals for looseness or corrosion. A poor connection can mimic other faults.
Early Diagnostic Map
The table below compresses symptoms, likely causes, and the fastest first move.
| Symptom You See | Likely Cause | Quick Next Step |
|---|---|---|
| Indicator on R, no crank; starts in N | Neutral/Range switch misread | Start in Neutral; schedule switch check |
| Indicator on R, lever feels loose | Shifter cable bushing popped off | Inspect cable end at transmission; reseat/replace bushing |
| Brake pedal pressed, shifter won’t move | Brake-pedal switch fault | Confirm brake lights; replace switch if lights stay off |
| All lights work; rapid click on crank | Weak battery or bad connection | Clean/tighten terminals; jump-start and retest |
| No sound at all on crank | Starter relay/fuse or security inhibit | Check fuses/relay; try second key fob |
| Selector stuck near R; won’t move | Mechanical linkage bind | Use shift-lock override; tow for inspection |
What The Start-In-Gear Safety Circuit Does
Every automatic has a safety circuit that allows cranking only in Park or Neutral. The transmission range sensor (often called the neutral safety switch) tells the control module where the lever truly sits. If the sensor reports Reverse, the control module keeps the starter relay open and you get silence. Many service guides reference this as a “starter inhibit” condition. Training material for technicians describes testing the sensor with a multimeter and verifying the Park/Neutral positions at the connector.
Shifter Cable And Bushing Problems
When the lever position and the transmission position don’t match, the dashboard might still show R while the gearbox is stuck between gates. A worn or detached bushing at the transmission end of the shift cable is common. Some models have recalls and service campaigns for deteriorating cable bushings that let the cable slip off the transmission stud. If the cable end is off, the lever can move but the transmission stays put, and the starter stays blocked.
Brake-Pedal Switch And Shift-Lock
Most automatics use a brake-to-shift interlock. Pressing the brake signals the interlock to release the shifter from Park and also tells the control module that the pedal is depressed. If that switch fails, the shifter may not move as designed, and the system may not allow a start request. A quick tell is dead brake lamps when you press the pedal.
Safe Roadside Action Plan
These steps help you move the car without causing damage. If any step feels unsafe, call roadside assistance or a mobile mechanic.
Step 1: Try A Neutral Start
Hold the brake. Move the lever to Neutral and attempt a start. While cranking, nudge the lever slightly forward and back within the Neutral gate. Many drivers find the engine will crank in Neutral even when Park fails, which points to a range-sensor alignment issue.
Step 2: Use The Shift-Lock Override
Most consoles have a covered slot marked “shift lock.” Pry the cover, insert a key or small screwdriver, press down, and move the lever to Neutral. Keep the brake pressed. This bypasses the normal interlock so you can position the lever safely for towing or a Neutral start.
Step 3: Check Brake Lights
Ask a helper to watch the rear lamps while you press the pedal. No lights points to a failed brake-pedal switch or a blown fuse. Replaceable switches sit above the pedal with a simple quarter-turn mount on many cars.
Step 4: Confirm Battery And Connections
Pop the hood and look at both battery terminals. Clean off white crust with a dedicated brush, tighten loose clamps, and try again. A weak battery can still power lights and screens yet drop under the heavy starter load. If available, attempt a jump-start and see if the starter engages once the voltage is steadier.
Step 5: Check Fuses And The Starter Relay
Locate the under-hood fuse box and the interior fuse panel. Look for the starter relay diagram inside the cover. Swap the relay with a similar one (like the horn) as a quick test and try to start again. Replace any blown fuses tied to the start/ignition and brake-lamp circuits.
Step 6: Inspect The Shifter Cable At The Transmission
With the engine off, set the parking brake and chock a wheel. From the top or underneath (only if safe), find the cable end where it snaps onto the transmission shift lever. If the bushing is missing, the cable can sit loose. A temporary roadside fix is limited, but reseating a slipped cable end may let you select Neutral for towing.
When To Call For Help
Stop and get professional help if the lever refuses to move, the cable end is off, or the dashboard shows R while the vehicle rolls freely. Towing in Neutral with the ignition in the correct position protects the transmission; a flatbed is best for many modern drivetrains. If the vehicle is nose-in on a slope, don’t fight the lever; the park pawl can jam under load. A tow operator can relieve the load safely.
Costs, Time, And What Usually Fails
Repair time varies by model. A brake-pedal switch is often a quick part. A transmission range sensor can take an hour or two. A cable bushing can be inexpensive but labor can rise if access is tight. Starters and batteries vary by engine size and parts brand.
| Likely Repair | DIY Or Shop | Typical Outcome |
|---|---|---|
| Brake-pedal switch replacement | DIY-friendly with basic tools | Shifter releases; start request recognized |
| Range/neutral switch replace or adjust | Shop recommended | Cranks in Park and Neutral as designed |
| Shift-cable bushing/end repair | Shop or roadside reseat | Lever matches actual gear; start allowed |
| Battery replacement and terminal service | DIY or shop | Stable voltage; starter engages normally |
| Starter relay/fuse replacement | DIY-friendly | Click/no-crank resolved if relay was the fault |
| Cable adjustment/linkage service | Shop recommended | Selector aligns with transmission detents |
How To Tell Which Path You’re On
If It Starts In Neutral
That’s a classic range-sensor alignment or wear clue. Keep driving only if the lever now selects all positions cleanly. Book a sensor test and adjustment soon; the sensor is part of the starter-inhibit circuit and the transmission control strategy.
If The Shifter Feels Mushy Or Free-Moving
Loose feel points straight at the cable and bushing. If the dashboard gear display doesn’t match the lever, or the car rolls when it should hold, stop. A detached cable can create a mismatch between the indicator and the actual gear.
If The Dash Stays Bright But The Starter Is Silent
Check the relay and the range circuit. A healthy battery can run lights and screens while a blocked start request keeps the relay open. Swapping a like-for-like relay is a fast proof test, and it takes seconds.
If You Hear Rapid Clicking
That’s often a low-voltage symptom. Clean the terminals and try a jump-start. If it cranks strongly with the jump pack, plan on a battery test and a check of the charging system soon.
Owner-Safe Tools To Keep In The Trunk
- 12-volt jump pack and a compact tire chock
- Mechanic’s gloves and a small flat screwdriver for the shift-lock slot
- Basic socket set and a flashlight
- OBD-II scanner to clear a temporary transmission range code after repair
When Recalls Or Service Campaigns Apply
Some vehicles have known shifter-cable bushing concerns. Owners can check open recalls by VIN through official tools. If a bushing detaches, the indicator may not reflect the actual gear, and starting can be blocked until the linkage is restored. If your model appears in an active recall or investigation, book the remedy with a dealer—repairs are often provided at no charge when covered.
Preventive Habits That Help
- Pause fully at a stop before selecting R or D to avoid cable shock loads.
- Keep battery terminals clean. Voltage sag confuses multiple modules at start.
- If the lever ever feels loose or notchy, schedule an adjustment before it strands you.
Simple Decision Tree You Can Follow
Start Now With These Yes/No Branches
- Will it crank in Neutral? Yes: plan a range-sensor check. No: go to 2.
- Do brake lights work? No: replace brake-pedal switch or its fuse. Yes: go to 3.
- Does the lever feel loose? Yes: inspect the cable end at the transmission. No: go to 4.
- Any click from the relay? No: check relay/fuse and security inhibit; try a second key. Yes with rapid clicks: service battery and connections.
Links To Official Guidance
Two helpful sources back up the checks above. A technician training page explains how the transmission range/neutral switch prevents starter operation outside Park or Neutral. A national motoring organization lists common no-start causes, including weak batteries and starter faults. For vehicles with shifter-cable bushing issues, safety regulators publish recall bulletins owners can search by VIN.
See a concise technician explainer on the transmission range/neutral switch, and a motoring group’s page on why cars don’t start. To check safety actions by VIN, use the U.S. regulator’s recall database or read active bulletins such as this shifter-cable bushing notice.
What To Tell A Mechanic
Give a tight summary: “Indicator shows R and there’s no crank. It didn’t start in Park. It did/didn’t start in Neutral. Brake lamps do/don’t work. Lever feels loose/normal.” Ask for a scan of transmission range data, a visual check of the cable and bushing, battery and charging tests, and a starter-relay test. This short brief saves time and points the diagnosis at the right circuit.
Key Takeaways You Can Act On
- If Neutral works, get the range/neutral switch checked soon.
- If the lever feels sloppy, expect a cable or bushing repair.
- If the dash stays bright but the starter is silent, test the relay and interlock signals.
- If you hear rapid clicks, service the battery and terminals first.