How to Cut Trees with a Chainsaw? | Safe Felling Steps

One wrong cut can send a tree where you don’t want it — or worse, bring it down on top of you. Learning how to cut trees with a chainsaw safely means reading the tree and the ground around it, making two precise cuts, and having a clear escape route before the saw touches wood. The same skills carry over once the tree is down: limbing and bucking follow their own safety rules that keep you in control.

Preparation and Safety Come First

Before you start the saw, inspect the tree and the area around it. Look for dead limbs overhead, the natural lean of the trunk, and any obstacles like buildings, fences, or power lines. If the tree is near a power line, confirm it is de-energized before cutting — or call a professional. Plan two escape paths at roughly 45 degrees away from the intended fall direction, and clear them of tripping hazards.

Full PPE is non-negotiable: a hard hat, eye and face protection, hearing protection, heavy work gloves, chainsaw chaps or cut-resistant legwear, and boots that cover the ankles. Check the saw itself — confirm chain tension, bar and oil levels, sharp teeth, and a functioning chain brake before every use. Start the saw on firm, clear ground with the chain brake engaged, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

For smaller trees in tight spaces, a compact saw makes the work easier — our roundup of the best chainsaws for small trees covers the top options for lighter-duty cutting. Even with the right saw, keep other people at least two tree lengths — 150 feet minimum — away during felling.

How to Make the Notch and Back Cut?

The felling cut has two parts: a directional notch on the side facing where you want the tree to fall, and a back cut on the opposite side that leaves a hinge of uncut wood. The Mississippi State Extension’s felling guide uses these exact proportions.

The notch. On the fall side, cut a wedge out of the trunk. The face cut should go about 25 percent of the way into the tree’s diameter — roughly one-quarter of the trunk depth. The wedge angle is typically 60 to 70 degrees with a flat bottom. This notch determines exactly where the tree will go.

The back cut. Move to the opposite side and cut parallel to the notch, staying about an inch higher than the notch’s bottom. Do not cut all the way through. This hinge guides the tree as it falls.

When the tree starts to go, shut off the saw, pull it free, and move along your escape path at a 45-degree angle away from the falling trunk. Never turn your back on the falling tree.

Limbing and Bucking a Fallen Tree

Once the tree is down, limbing and bucking have their own rules. Cut one branch at a time — never try to slice through several at once. Keep the saw close to your body for control and avoid letting the bar line up with your head or neck.

When cutting a log that could pinch the saw blade, use a two-step approach: cut upward from the bottom about one-third of the way through, then finish from the top. This prevents the kerf from closing on the bar. Use wedges to keep cuts open when needed.

Watch for rot, especially in the butt end of the log. Cut out rotten sections first. When measuring log lengths, add at least six inches of overrun to account for trimming and squaring later. Keep other people at least 30 feet away during limbing and bucking.

FAQs

How deep should the face cut be?

Cutting deeper than that weakens the hinge and reduces control over the fall direction. A shallower cut may not guide the tree effectively.

Can I fell a tree alone?

Yes, with proper planning and PPE. But if the tree is large, leaning awkwardly, damaged, or close to structures or power lines, a professional arborist is the safer choice. The minimum safe distance for bystanders is two tree lengths.

What causes a chainsaw to kick back?

Kickback happens when the tip of the guide bar contacts wood or another object. Always use both hands, cut at waist level or below, and avoid letting the nose of the bar touch anything. A functioning chain brake is the primary safeguard.