How to Hang Blackout Curtains? | Mount High and Wide

The goal when you hang blackout curtains isn’t just covering the glass — it’s sealing off the light that sneaks in around the edges. Mount the rod high and wide, use a level, and anchor the brackets into something solid. Do that, and your room gets genuinely dark instead of merely dim.

This guide walks through the exact steps: measuring, choosing a rod, drilling, and hanging the panels. You’ll also find the common mistakes that wreck light blocking and the no-drill options for rentals.

What’s the Best Height and Width?

Position the rod 4–6 inches above the window frame and let it extend 4–8 inches past each side. That keeps the fabric tight against the wall and closes the gaps where light pours in.

Some installers go higher — up to 6–8 inches above the frame, or even near the ceiling for a taller, more polished look. Homes & Gardens recommends at least two inches above the window and preferably closer to the ceiling. The trade-off is simple: the higher and wider you go, the better the block, but the longer your curtains need to be so they still reach the sill or floor.

• Height: 4–6 inches above the frame is the reliable standard.
• Width: 4–8 inches of rod past each side of the frame.
• For heavy leaks: push toward the top of those ranges, or aim for the ceiling.

How to Install Blackout Curtains

Work in this order: measure, mark, drill, mount, hang, and test. Skipping the level or the anchors is how crooked rods and sagging panels happen.

1. Measure the window. Note the width and height so you pick the right rod length and panel count.
2. Choose the rod. Pick one that extends 4–8 inches past the frame on each side, and make sure it holds the curtain weight. Blackout panels run heavier than sheers.
3. Mark the bracket spots. Hold the brackets at your chosen height, and mark the screw holes with a pencil. Use a level to keep both marks even — a crooked rod makes panels slide to one side.
4. Drill pilot holes. For drywall, drill pilot holes and insert wall anchors. If you hit a stud, drive the screws straight into the wood instead — no anchor needed.
5. Mount the brackets. Screw them in firmly, then give them a tug to confirm they’re solid before loading the rod.
6. Prep the panels. Remove packaging and wrinkles. Many guides recommend ironing or steaming on low heat before hanging so the fabric hangs flat.
7. Slide the panels on. Blackout curtains come with rod pockets, grommets, hooks, or rings. Slide the rod through the pocket or grommets, or clip the rings on, depending on the header style.
8. Mount the rod. Set it in the brackets, then test for light gaps at the top, sides, and bottom. Adjust the fabric so the outermost ring or clip sits just outside the bracket — this pulls the panel tight against the wall and kills side leaks.

If you’re ready to buy, our tested roundup of the best blackout curtains breaks down which panels block the most light for the price.

No-Drill Options for Renters

Suction cups, tension rods, and adhesive hooks all work in a pinch, but they trade reliability for convenience. They depend on a perfectly clean, dry surface and won’t hold heavy panels as securely as drilled hardware.

• Suction cups: Clean the window surface, attach one cup to each top corner, and press firmly. They can lose grip over time, especially with heavier fabric.
• Tension rods: Measure the frame width, slide the curtain onto the rod first, then extend it tightly inside the frame. The rod must fit snugly — if the frame is too wide, the whole setup slips.
• Adhesive hooks: Clean and dry the surface, press the hooks on, and wait at least an hour before hanging anything so the bond sets.

Common Mistakes That Ruin the Blackout

Most light leaks trace back to one of four errors. Avoid them and your install does its job.

• Mounting too close to the frame. This is the biggest one. Light spills over the top and around the sides no matter how good the fabric is.
• Skipping the level. Crooked brackets make panels hang uneven and gap at the bottom.
• No wall anchors in drywall. Screws pull straight out of drywall without an anchor. Match the hardware to the wall type every time.
• Under-buying width. One panel of standard width usually can’t cover a wide window. Buy enough total width to span the rod plus a little extra for gathering.

Hanging blackout curtains correctly comes down to three decisions: mount high, extend wide, and anchor into something solid. Get those right, and the room goes dark.