How to Remove Bicycle Pedals | The Correct Direction Every Time

That left-pedal direction surprises nearly everyone the first time they swap pedals. The trick is remembering the tool moves toward the back of the bike on both sides — when that clicks, the thread direction sorts itself out.

What You Need to Remove Pedals

A dedicated pedal wrench is the right tool for the job. Its long handle — roughly 12.6 inches (320 mm) — gives the leverage needed for pedals that are often overtightened, and its thin jaws fit the narrow flats between the pedal body and crank arm. Standard wrenches can slip or fail to grab the flats at all.

Many pedals also accept an 8mm hex (Allen) key in a socket on the spindle’s inner end. Condor Cycles notes that parallel-face spindles need the 15mm spanner, while hex-socket models require the 8mm key — check your pedal type before reaching for a tool.

If you’re shopping for new bicycle pedals, choose ones that match your riding style and have clear axle markings for wrench fit.

Step-by-Step Removal: Both Sides

• Safety first. Mount the bike in a stand and shift the chain onto the largest chainring. This keeps your hand away from the sharp teeth if the wrench slips.
• Right pedal (drive side). Rotate the crank arm to the 3 o’clock position (pointing forward). Place the 15mm wrench on the axle flats with the handle pointing toward the back of the bike. Push down — counter-clockwise as you face the crank — to loosen. Unscrew the rest by hand.
• Left pedal (non-drive side). Rotate the left crank arm to the 9 o’clock position (forward). Position the wrench the same way: handle pointing rearward. Turn clockwise to loosen. The reverse thread on the left pedal means your hand motion feels opposite, but the tool still moves toward the rear.
• Stuck pedal? Apply penetrating oil to the threads and let it sit for 10–15 minutes. A cheater bar (pipe slipped over the wrench handle) adds leverage without damaging the tool.

Once both pedals are off, you’ll see the threads clearly. the pedals spin free by hand and the crank arms are empty.

Common Mistakes That Strip Pedals

The most frequent error is treating the left pedal like a standard thread. Turning it counter-clockwise tightens it further, and forcing it can wreck the crank arm threads — a repair that often costs more than the pedals themselves.

Other pitfalls:

• Short wrench. A stubby spanner won’t break the initial bond. Use the long pedal wrench or add leverage.
• Wrong angle. Keep the wrench within 90 degrees of the crank arm. An extreme angle wastes force and slips.
• Skipping chain position. The large chainring guards your hands. Leave the chain on the small ring and a slip sends your knuckles into the teeth.

Reinstalling Pedals: Threads and Torque

Clean the threads with a rag to remove grit and old grease. Apply a thin layer of fresh grease — this prevents corrosion and makes future removal easier. Tighten firmly but don’t overdo it; overtightening is why pedals get stuck in the first place.

Work on a towel or old book beneath the pedal in case it drops. The floor is harder than your pedal body.