Yes—when a Maytag dryer won’t spin, start with power, door switch, belt, and motor before calling service.
If your Maytag dryer drum stays still while the timer runs or the motor hums, you can track the fault fast with a few safe checks. This guide shows what to test, where to look, and when to bring in a pro. You’ll also see quick fixes that restore drying without tearing the machine apart.
Maytag Dryer Not Spinning: Quick Checks
Start with the easy wins. Unplug the dryer for safety, then plug in firmly. Reset the breaker if it tripped. Open and close the door and listen for the latch click. Hold the Start button a few seconds on models that require a press and hold. If the panel shows a lock icon, turn off the control lock using your model’s steps.
If the motor runs but the drum stands still, the drive belt likely snapped. If nothing runs, look at power, the door switch, the thermal fuse, or the start switch. A loud hum that stops after a few seconds points to a jammed drum, seized rollers, or a failing motor.
Common Symptoms And Likely Causes
| Symptom | Likely Cause | DIY Or Pro |
|---|---|---|
| Motor runs, drum still | Broken belt or belt switch | DIY for belt; pro if switch |
| Press Start, nothing happens | No power, control lock, door switch, blown fuse | DIY checks first |
| Hums, then stops | Seized drum rollers, idler pulley, or motor | Pro recommended |
| Spins empty, stops with load | Worn belt, slipping idler, weak motor | Pro after belt check |
| Drum turns unevenly | Flat spots on rollers, worn glides | DIY with basic tools |
Tools And Safety Prep
Gather a nut driver set, Phillips driver, flat blade, needle-nose pliers, and a multimeter. Wear cut-resistant gloves. Unplug the dryer or switch off the breaker. Slide the unit away from the wall to access the rear and the vent. Vent cleaning improves drying and reduces heat stress on parts.
Step-By-Step Troubleshooting Path
1. Confirm Power And Controls
Check that the cord is seated and the correct four- or three-wire cord is used on electric models. Reset the double-pole breaker. On many Maytag panels you must press and hold the Start button for two to five seconds. If the display shows “Controls Locked,” use the unlock sequence in your manual.
2. Rule Out The Door Switch
The drum will not spin if the switch does not close. Open the door and press the switch plunger; the light should turn off. No change points to a faulty switch or a harness issue. Many switches read near zero ohms when pressed and open when released.
3. Listen For The Drive Belt
Start a timed cycle and listen. A running motor with no drum movement almost always means the belt broke. Access the belt from the front on most top-filter models. Loop the new belt around the drum, route around the idler, then the motor pulley. Spin the drum by hand to seat the belt.
4. Inspect Idler Pulley And Rollers
Remove the front panel. Check the idler pulley for smooth rotation. Any squeal, wobble, or binding means replacement. Spin each rear drum roller; they should turn freely with no flat spots. A stuck roller can stall the motor and stop the spin.
5. Test The Belt Switch Or Broken Belt Sensor
Many Maytag and Whirlpool designs include a belt switch held by the idler arm. When the belt breaks, the arm moves and opens the switch, so the motor will not run. With power off, remove one wire and measure continuity while moving the arm. The switch should click and change state.
6. Check The Thermal Fuse And Thermostats
If the dryer quit mid-cycle and never spun again, the thermal fuse may have opened due to blocked airflow. Pull the back panel, locate the small fuse on the exhaust duct, and test with a meter. Replace if open and clear the vent from dryer to roof or wall cap.
7. Evaluate The Drive Motor
A strong hum and hot smell suggest the motor cannot start under load. Clear any drum jams first. If the blower wheel is packed with lint or the shaft seized, the motor overheats and trips the protector. When free, and voltage is present at the motor, a no-start points to a failing motor.
8. Check The Drum Glides And Front Felt
Top-load style dryers use plastic glides or felt at the front bulkhead. Worn pads scrape, drag, and stall the drum. Replace as a set. Clean the groove and seat the felt evenly to prevent rub and heat build-up.
Close Variant: Maytag Dryer Won’t Spin — Causes, Fixes, And Costs
Across models, the core items repeat: belt, idler, rollers, door switch, thermal fuse, and motor. Parts are widely available and most fixes fall within a short afternoon if the cabinet layout is familiar. Professional service makes sense when noise, heat, and spin faults mix, since that often means multiple worn parts.
You can reference the official Maytag guide on dryer won’t spin steps and the product help page for not tumbling or spinning for model-specific control tips and safety notes.
What Each Sound Or Symptom Tells You
Silent panel. Likely no power, tripped breaker, or a loose cord. Once restored, if spin returns, you’re done.
Click, then nothing. The relay may close but the motor never gets moving. Look at the belt switch, thermal fuse, or a door switch that reads closed but drops out under vibration.
Continuous hum. The motor tries but cannot turn the drum. Remove the belt and see if the motor spins by itself. If the motor runs free, the jam sits in the drum path. If it still hums, the motor is nearing the end.
Rhythmic thump. Flat rollers or a split seam on the drum. The unit may spin, then stall as friction rises.
Burning smell. Belt slip on a stuck drum or a seizing idler. Stop and inspect before the motor overheats.
Parts You’ll Check And What They Do
Drive belt. Wraps the drum and transfers motor torque. Breaks with age or overload.
Idler pulley and spring. Keeps belt tension. A dry bearing squeals and drags.
Drum rollers and shafts. Support the drum at the rear. Wear creates drag and noise.
Door switch. Tells the control the door is closed. If stuck open, the drum never turns.
Thermal fuse. One-shot safety on the exhaust path. Opens on high heat from poor airflow.
High-limit thermostat. Cuts heat on runaway temperature and can fail rare, leaving heat erratic.
Start switch or relay. Sends power to the motor. Faults create a dead press.
Drive motor. Spins the drum and blower. Weak windings stall under load.
DIY Tests And Expected Results
| Part | Quick Test | Expected Result |
|---|---|---|
| Door switch | Press plunger; light off; meter continuity pressed | Closed when pressed |
| Thermal fuse | Remove one lead; meter continuity | Closed; open means replace |
| Belt | Spin drum by hand; feel tension; visual check | Tight and centered |
| Idler pulley | Spin by finger | Silent, smooth |
| Drum rollers | Spin roller | No flat spots |
| Motor | Belt off; run briefly | Starts clean, no hum |
Model Notes: Bravos, Centennial, Neptune, And More
Bravos and Centennial share the belt-idler-roller layout common to Whirlpool-made units. The belt switch sits on the idler arm on many versions. A broken belt opens that switch and the motor will not run. Neptune uses front glides that wear into grooves; when pads thin out, the drum drags and the drive stalls. Compact models place the thermal fuse near the heater box on the rear; open fuses block spin and heat together.
If your model ships with a “Press And Hold To Start” label on the console, give the button two to five seconds. Tapping once may not engage the drive. Control lock icons also stop any start press until cleared. Both items are standard across recent Maytag panels.
Gas Vs. Electric: What Changes When It Won’t Spin
Spin faults share the same path on gas and electric units. Power feed differs, though. Electric models need a 240-volt supply across the two hot legs. A half-tripped breaker leaves lights on but the drive dead. Gas models use 120 volts; a tripped single breaker leaves the panel dark. In both cases, a belt break still gives a running sound with no drum movement, and a seized roller still hums the motor.
Smart Ways To Confirm The Belt
Open the door and try to spin the drum by hand. No resistance often means the belt snapped. With the top raised, look for a slack loop at the motor pulley. Replace belts as a matched part for your model. When in place, the belt ribs face the drum. The smooth side rides the idler.
How To Reseat A Slipped Belt
Unplug the dryer. Remove the top and front as your model allows. Slide the drum forward a few inches. Loop the belt around the drum and align to the wear track. Route the belt under the idler pulley and over the motor pulley. Refit the front, spin the drum one full turn by hand, then test a short timed cycle.
When Noise Hides A Spin Problem
Grinding or screeching often starts weeks before a no-spin event. That sound comes from a dry idler bearing or flat rollers. Each pass heats the belt and raises drag until the motor can’t get past the start load. Replacing the idler and rollers as a set restores quiet and spin together.
Prevention So The Drum Keeps Turning
Clean the vent yearly. Keep runs short with smooth metal duct and gentle bends. Swap a frayed belt at the first squeak. Replace rollers and the idler together if wear shows. Load to the center of the drum and avoid heavy mixed loads. Lint traps need a wash with warm water when waxy film from dryer sheets builds up.
When To Call A Technician
Call for help if the breaker trips every start, if you smell hot windings, or if the motor locks after a few seconds. Cabinet live tests belong to trained hands. A pro will check line voltage, current draw, and run cap values where fitted. This keeps parts selection honest and avoids repeated teardowns.
Clear Answers To Common Scenarios
Dryer Starts, Then Stops After Ten Seconds
That pattern fits a seized roller or a belt switch that opens as the idler shifts. Inspect both.
Drum Turns By Hand But Not Under Load
The belt may glaze and slip. Replace belt and inspect the idler spring. If the motor shaft is loose, schedule service.
Panel Works, No Click At All
Look at the door switch and the thermal fuse first. Both can block the spin circuit. If both pass, the control may have a stuck relay.