Nissan Murano Won’t Start Push Button | Fast Fix

Stab the brake, hit the switch, and nothing. Lights may wake up, fans may spin, yet the V6 stays silent. This guide shows simple checks, likely faults, and practical fixes for a Murano with a stubborn start button. No fluff, just steps that save time and tow fees.

Murano Push-Button Start Not Working — Quick Checks

Start with the basics. These checks take minutes and solve a large share of no-start complaints.

1. Press The Brake Firmly: Hold steady pressure; a light tap may not trigger the brake switch.
2. Watch The Brake Lamps: No brake lights often means the brake pedal switch isn’t sending the start signal.
3. Try The Backup Key Method: Touch the fob to the start switch and press; this bypasses a weak fob battery.
4. Test The 12-V Battery: A weak battery can power screens yet fail under starter load.
5. Listen For Relay Clicks: A click from the engine bay without crank points to starter, wiring, or the IPDM relay path.

Symptom-To-Cause-To-Fix Table

How The System Decides To Let The Engine Crank

The start sequence is gated by a few simple signals. The car looks for a nearby Intelligent Key, a pressed brake, and the shifter in Park. When all three line up, the module sends power to the starter relay and lets the engine crank.

If the fob battery is weak, the car may not see the key. If the brake switch doesn’t change state, the request stalls. If the 12-V battery sags, relays click but the starter never spins.

Step-By-Step Fixes That Work

1) Use The Built-In Backup For A Weak Fob

Hold the fob against the start switch, then press. Many trims read the transponder through the ring around the button. This bypasses a weak cell inside the fob. If the engine fires, replace the coin cell and keep a spare in the glove box.

On newer model years, Nissan’s quick guides describe this exact method. See the Murano quick reference guide for the “touch ignition switch with the Intelligent Key” step.

2) Confirm The Brake Switch Is Doing Its Job

Press the pedal and check the brake lamps. No light means the switch may be out of range or failed. The switch sits near the pedal arm; it threads in and sets with a small gap. If the lamps flicker, the switch may be loose. Set the gap, reseat the connector, or replace the part. It’s a simple job with basic tools.

3) Test The 12-V Battery Under Load

Open-circuit voltage can mislead. The real test is how the battery behaves while cranking. If the reading dips hard and accessories reset, charge the battery and try again. Corroded clamps can sap voltage too. Clean the posts until bright metal shows and tighten both clamps.

4) Check Fuses And The Starter Relay Path

Under-hood, the IPDM and fuse blocks feed the starter circuit and the control modules. Pull the starter relay, inspect for heat marks, and swap with a twin if the layout allows. If a swap brings life back, replace the bad relay and keep one in the trunk.

5) Scan For Codes Before Guessing Parts

A quick scan often flags a failed brake switch, a range sensor out of Park, or a key antenna fault. Many parts stores will scan at no charge. Note the codes, clear them, and test to see what returns.

Battery, Fob, Or Switch — How To Tell Which One

Patterns help. If interior lights are bright but you only get a single click, think starter or power feed. If displays flash and reset on each try, think weak battery or poor connection. If the dash says “No Key,” hold the fob to the button and try again. If waiting a minute helps, radio noise or a jammed module may be the culprit; cycle to ACC, then OFF, and retry.

Official Start Procedure And Backup Tricks

Every model year spells out the basic start steps: foot on brake, shifter in Park, press the switch. Nissan’s manuals also show the backup method for a weak fob and the ACC/ON positions when you press without the brake. You can grab the latest PDFs at owners manuals & guides.

DIY Tests Before You Call A Tow

Brake Lamp Test

Have a helper stand behind the car. Press the pedal. If the lights stay dark, the start request will stall. Replace the switch or fix the wiring.

Headlight Dim Test

Turn on the low beams and try to start. If the beams dip hard, the battery is weak or the clamps are dirty. Jump the car and retest. If it starts, load-test the battery and check the alternator later.

Shifter Wiggle

Move the lever from Park to Neutral, then back to Park. A worn range sensor can miss Park and block the start signal.

Starter Tap

With the car in Park and the brake set, have a helper press the button while you tap the starter housing with a short extension. If it springs to life, the solenoid is on its last legs.

Typical Costs And Time

When It Still Won’t Crank

Some faults need deeper diagnosis. A chafed harness can starve the starter of power. A failed key antenna can stop the car from seeing a valid key. A control unit in the IPDM can drop the relay signal. At that point, log the symptoms, grab codes, and book a shop that works with Nissan systems daily.

Prevent The Next No-Start

• Swap the fob cell each year; stash a spare coin cell in the glove box.
• Clean battery clamps at each oil change; coat with dielectric grease.
• Keep a memory saver and a compact jump pack in the trunk.
• If the switch feels spongy, check brake lamps and adjust the switch.
• Scan once per season; catch weak sensors before they strand you.

Stick to these habits and the start button stays boring, which is exactly what you want.

What Dash Messages Really Mean

“No Key Detected”

The car can’t confirm a valid Intelligent Key nearby. Hold the fob to the switch and try again. Swap the coin cell if that works. Keep metal objects and other fobs away from the center console to reduce interference.

“Push Brake And Start” Stays On

The brake input didn’t change state. Check for brake lights. If they stay dark, the pedal switch or its connector needs attention. If the lights work yet the message stays, scan for a switch circuit code.

Security Indicator Flashing Fast

The immobilizer has not seen a valid key signal. Try a second fob. Use the touch-to-start method. If both fail, the key antennas or the BCM may need testing.

Fuse And Relay Spots To Check

The starter circuit and key system draw power through under-hood and cabin blocks. The engine bay holds the IPDM and a main fuse block. The cabin block sits to the left side of the dash behind a cover. Use the lid diagrams to find the starter relay, the ignition fuses, and the brake light fuse. Pull one at a time and check for a blown link. Replace with the same rating only.

If the relay layout matches across slots, swap a known-good relay into the starter slot as a test. If the car wakes up, keep the spare in your glove box.

Model-Year Notes You Should Know

Earlier generations with a fob slot let you insert the fob and start even with a weak cell. Later generations dropped the slot, so the touch-to-start method becomes the go-to move. The manual for your specific year lists the exact steps and switch positions. Grab the PDF, save it to your phone, and keep it handy on trips.

A Clear Flow To Diagnose A No-Start

1. Read The Message: Note any alerts on the dash. Snap a photo so you don’t forget.
2. Key Check: Try the second fob. Then touch the fob to the button and press.
3. Brake Check: Press hard; watch for brake lamps. If dark, fix the switch first.
4. Battery Check: Measure voltage at rest. Charge and retest. Clean clamps.
5. Relay Check: Listen for a click. Swap the starter relay if the layout allows.
6. Crank Signal Check: Shift to Neutral and try again to bypass a finicky range sensor.
7. Scan For Codes: Record, clear, and retest. Return codes point the way.
8. Starter Check: If power reaches the solenoid yet no spin, the motor is due.

Move through this order and you avoid guesswork. Each step builds on the last and isolates the fault fast.

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