Samsung Washer Won’t Balance | Stop The Shake

If your drum thumps, stalls, or throws a “U-type” code near the spin, you’re dealing with an unbalanced load or a cabinet that isn’t sitting flat. The good news: you can fix most cases at home with a few checks, a wrench, and better loading habits. This guide walks you through quick wins first, then deeper fixes when the wobble won’t quit.

Fast Checks Before You Grab Tools

Start with the simple stuff. Pull a few heavy items, rearrange the rest, and try a spin-only cycle. Many machines settle down once the weight is spread around the drum. If the drum still pounds the sides or the cabinet walks across the floor, move to the steps below.

Early Fixes That Solve Most Cases

• Even out the load: mix towels with shirts; avoid single bulky items alone.
• Confirm the cabinet is level side-to-side and front-to-back.
• Run the machine’s calibration cycle when available.
• Check that all four feet are in firm contact with the floor and lock nuts are tight.

Common Causes At A Glance

Cause	Visible Sign	Quick Fix
Uneven Load	One heavy item pulls to one side; loud thumps on spin	Rearrange or split the load; add a few lighter items
Cabinet Not Level	Washer rocks by hand; feet don’t all touch the floor	Adjust feet until level; tighten lock nuts
Soft Or Sloped Floor	Machine “walks”; vibration worse at high RPM	Move to a stiffer spot; add a rubber pad or platform
Shipping Bolts Left In (new front load)	Severe shake from day one	Remove rear transit bolts; keep for future moves
Worn Suspension/Shocks	Drum bounces easily by hand; long settling time	Replace suspension rods (top load) or shocks (front load)
Loose Drum Pulley/Spider Damage	Metallic clunks; off-center spin	Inspect and tighten/replace parts as needed

Samsung documents “U-type” balance alerts (UE, Ub, U6, Ur) and recommends load redistribution and leveling as first steps. See the brand’s unbalanced load code guidance and its page on washing machine shaking for model-specific notes.

Samsung Washer Not Balancing — Quick Fix Steps

Work left to right. Test a spin-only cycle after each step so you know which action solved it.

Step 1: Redistribute The Load

Open the door or lid and shake out clumps. A single bath mat, a plush blanket, or three soaked jeans on one side can throw the drum off. Add two or three lighter items to even the mass, then run a spin-only cycle.

Step 2: Level The Cabinet

Place a small bubble level on the top panel—front-to-back and side-to-side. Loosen each lock nut, turn the feet until the bubble centers, then tighten the lock nuts snug. Many Samsung pages show the exact motion: clockwise or counterclockwise on the clamp nut to raise or lower. You can also follow this official walkthrough for leveling a washer.

Step 3: Run Calibration Mode (When Available)

Some models learn drum weight by spinning empty at low speed. After leveling, run the calibration routine listed for your control panel. A short cycle stores balance data and can reduce nuisance stops. If your display shows UE/Ub often, Samsung’s pages detail how the machine will try to correct by adding water or retrying spin.

Step 4: Confirm All Four Feet Are Anchored

Press down on each corner. If one foot lifts or the cabinet rocks, you’ll never get a smooth spin. Adjust that foot until the rock disappears. Tighten the lock nut. Recheck after a day; feet can settle into vinyl or wood slightly.

Step 5: Look For Flooring Issues

High-spin front loaders need a firm base. A thin basement subfloor, a bouncy span of joists, or a tile laid on soft underlayment can amplify vibration. A dense rubber mat or a stiff plywood platform secured to joists can help. Avoid pedestals on springy floors.

Step 6: Inspect Shipping Bolts On A New Front Loader

Transit bolts lock the drum for transport. If they’re still in place, the machine can’t cushion the spin and will shake hard. Look behind the washer for four bolts with bright spacers; remove them and insert the plastic hole covers included with the unit.

Step 7: Check Suspension Or Shocks

With the washer empty and off, press the drum down by hand and release. A healthy tub should settle quickly. If it pogo-sticks or clunks, the stabilizers are tired. Top loaders use suspension rods; front loaders use shock absorbers. Parts are model-specific, and they wear in sets. If one fails, replace the full set.

Step 8: Inspect The Pulley, Belt, And Drum Hub

Unplug the washer. On many front loaders, the rear panel exposes a large drum pulley and drive belt. A loose pulley bolt or worn belt can cause erratic spin. On older machines, a cracked spider hub (the cast arm behind the drum) can create persistent imbalance with scraping or grinding. These repairs take time and, in the case of a spider, can rival the cost of a used unit.

What Those U-Type Codes Mean

UE, Ub, U6, and Ur all point to load imbalance. In some cases, the washer adds water and tumbles to redistribute, then tries to spin again. If it still detects a large offset, it stops the spin to protect the bearings and cabinet. Detailed behavior varies by software, but the fix steps above apply across lines. For reference, see Samsung’s page covering UE/Ub/U6/Ur codes.

Front Load Versus Top Load: Different Hardware, Different Fixes

Front Load Traits

• High-speed spin squeezes more water out but needs stiff floors and good shocks.
• Transit bolts are a common oversight on day one.
• Spider arm and bearings can wear with age or heavy overdosing of detergent.

Top Load Traits

• Softer suspension can mask minor imbalance but bounces when rods wear.
• Large mixed loads wash well; single bulky items are the usual troublemakers.
• Overstuffed tubs twist clothes into ropes that fight the spin.

Step-By-Step Leveling Walkthrough

1. Kill power and water. Slide the washer forward for room.
2. Set a small level on the top panel (left-right, then front-back).
3. Loosen lock nuts on all feet. Turn feet to raise or lower until the bubble centers in both directions.
4. Push the cabinet at each corner. If it rocks, nudge the high foot down or the low foot up.
5. Re-tighten each lock nut firmly against the base so the setting doesn’t drift.
6. Run calibration if your model offers it. Then run a rinse+spin with two light towels.

If you’d like a visual reference, Samsung’s own leveling guide spells out the wrench motions and foot order for many regions: see this leveling checklist.

Loading Patterns That Keep The Drum Stable

• Pair heavy with light: balance a hoodie with pillowcases and shirts.
• Avoid single dense items: add two light bath towels to a bath mat or blanket.
• Use the right cycle: bulky/bedding cycles tumble slowly to prevent lumping.
• Mind detergent dose: foamy loads float and cluster; high-efficiency soap needs small, measured doses.
• Don’t overfill: leave a hand’s width at the top on a top loader; fill a front loader about two-thirds for mixed loads.

Parts To Inspect And When To Replace

Part	When It’s Suspect	Notes
Suspension Rods (Top Load)	Drum bounces; UB/UE repeats on mixed loads	Replace as a set of four; job time is moderate
Shock Absorbers (Front Load)	Sharp thumps at ramp-up; long settling	Replace in pairs or all four, model-dependent
Leveling Feet	Cabinet rocks; feet drift loose	Tighten lock nuts; replace cracked pads
Drive Belt	Burnt rubber smell; erratic spin	Check pulley bolt torque; swap belt if glazed
Drum Pulley & Bolt	Clunking from rear; off-center spin	Re-torque to spec; use threadlocker if manual calls for it
Spider Arm (Front Load)	Grinding, wobble, or brown flakes	Big repair; weigh part cost vs. machine age

Why Leveling And Calibration Matter

Modern Samsung models watch movement with sensors. If the cabinet leans or the load sits off-center, the control adds water, tumbles, and retries. That self-help works only when the base is square and the feet are locked. Owners who level once and recheck after the first week see fewer stoppages and faster cycles.

Special Notes For Stack Setups

Stacked front loaders need perfect leveling. A small lean grows as the dryer adds height. Use the stacking kit for your exact model, tighten every fastener, and confirm a tight wall gap so hoses don’t tug the cabinet during spin. If a stack wobbles, fix the base washer first; the dryer only mirrors that motion.

When The Floor Is The Problem

Even a perfect machine struggles on a spongy floor. If your laundry nook sits over long joists, place the washer near a joist end or above a bearing wall. A high-density rubber pad can dampen vibration, but it can’t fix a trampoline-like subfloor. In tough rooms, a stiff platform fastened to joists works best.

Preventive Habits That Keep Spin Smooth

• Sort by fabric weight so one type doesn’t settle into a tight ball.
• Pre-treat sandy or gritty items outside; debris chews suspension over time.
• Leave space in the drum; packed clothes can’t spread during ramp-up.
• Relevel after moving the machine or after any flooring change.
• Run calibration after major repairs or when balance alerts rise in frequency.

When To Bring In A Technician

Call a pro when the drum scrapes the door boot, the pulley won’t hold torque, the spider shows corrosion cracks, or you see brown flakes in the tub during a rinse. Those point to deeper mechanical wear beyond basic tuning. If your washer is older and needs a spider and bearings, price parts and labor against the remaining life of the unit.

Quick Reference: What To Try In Five Minutes

1. Pull one or two heavy items; add two light towels.
2. Rearrange the load so weight sits in a ring.
3. Set the cabinet with a level and re-tighten lock nuts.
4. Run calibration if your model supports it.
5. Spin-only test. If it still bangs, plan on suspension or shock service.

Helpful Official Resources

For model-specific steps and code names, check Samsung’s pages on unbalanced load codes and this guide to shaking and movement. For detailed leveling steps by region, see the leveling checklist.