For a Sharp set with Roku that stays off, check power, swap remote batteries, do a 10-minute unplug, then use the rear Reset pinhole.
Nothing on the screen, maybe a standby light, and no response from the remote. This guide walks you through clear steps that solve power-up failures on most Sharp televisions with Roku built in. Start at the top and work down. Each step is short and practical, and you’ll know what to expect after you try it.
Sharp Roku Television Not Turning On — Fast Checklist
- Plug the TV straight into a wall outlet you’ve tested with another device.
- Press the power button on the TV body to rule out a remote issue.
- Replace the remote batteries and try again from close range.
- Unplug the TV for 10 minutes to drain residual charge, then retry.
- Use the pinhole Reset on the rear panel (press and hold 15–20 seconds).
- Remove all HDMI devices, then add them back one by one.
- Try a different power cord or outlet if the light flickers or goes dim.
Quick Symptom-To-Action Table
The table below compresses the first round of checks. Work left to right, then move to the next section for deeper fixes.
| Symptom | What To Try First | Expected Result |
|---|---|---|
| No lights, no click, dead | Bypass power strip; use a proven wall outlet; reseat cord | Standby LED comes on; TV powers with button on set |
| Standby light on, no picture | Press power on TV body; try a 10-minute unplug | Logo screen appears; normal boot resumes |
| LED blinks and stops | Hold Reset pinhole 15–20 s; disconnect HDMI devices | Boot logo returns; pairing screen shows |
| Click or relay sound, black screen | Remove all HDMI; start with antenna/empty inputs | Home screen loads; add devices one by one |
| Turns on, then off again | Hard power cycle; factory reset via pinhole | Stable boot; setup flow begins |
| Light blinks fast during start | Wait 2–3 minutes; if stuck, hold Reset pinhole | Progress bar finishes; home appears |
Power Source Checks That Save Time
Many sets fail to wake due to line-level oddities or tired cords. Move the plug from a strip to a wall outlet. Test that outlet with a lamp or phone charger. If the TV uses a figure-8 or cloverleaf cable, swap in a known-good one from another device. Any looseness at the TV socket invites brownouts during boot, so push the connector in until fully seated.
When A Surge Protector Gets In The Way
Some strips limit current after a spike or use a master-controlled outlet that shuts slave sockets off. If your strip has that feature, move the TV to a non-switched outlet for this test. A direct wall run isolates the set from the strip’s quirks and proves whether supply is clean.
Remote And Button Tests
Start the set with the button on the TV body. If it wakes, the issue sits with the remote. Replace both batteries with fresh cells from the same pack. Point the remote straight at the IR sensor (usually on the lower bezel) and try from 3–6 feet. If the remote uses Wi-Fi Direct, power the TV with the panel button first, then re-pair the remote in Settings once the home screen appears.
Simple IR Camera Check
Open the camera on a phone and aim at the front of the remote while pressing Power. A bright purple/white blink on screen means the remote is sending IR. No blink points to bad batteries or a failed board in the remote.
Deep Power Cycle For Stuck Firmware
Unplug the TV and leave it off for 10 minutes. During the wait, hold the power button on the TV for 30 seconds to bleed off charge from internal rails. Plug straight into the wall and try the panel button first. This clears many half-boots and frozen updates.
Pinhole Reset That Revives Stalled Boots
Find the recessed Reset on the rear or side panel. Press and hold with a paperclip for 15–20 seconds while the TV is plugged in. Keep holding until the logo appears. This hard reset forces a clean start and can clear corrupt settings that block power-up. For a step-by-step reference from the platform maker, see Roku’s power-on guide for TV models.
Factory Reset From Menus (If You Can Reach Them)
If the TV reaches the home screen but fails again after sleep, try a factory wipe from menus: Settings > System > Advanced system settings > Factory reset. This clears accounts and channels, so use it only after the hardware steps above.
HDMI Devices Can Block A Clean Start
HDMI gear can send control signals that confuse wake-up. Pull every HDMI cable. Power the TV alone. If it starts, add devices one by one. When the culprit returns, turn off its control features or use a different port. Enabling or disabling HDMI-CEC in the TV can make wake-up consistent for mixed brands; see HDMI-CEC controls for exact menu names.
Soundbars And Receivers
ARC and eARC ride on CEC lines. A soundbar that boots late can tug the TV back to standby. Test with the bar unplugged. If the set behaves, leave CEC off on the bar, or use optical audio to break the control link.
What The Standby Light Tries To Tell You
The status LED offers quick clues during a failed start. Use the map below to decode common patterns. Models vary, so treat this as guidance rather than a strict code chart.
| LED Pattern | Likely Cause | Next Step |
|---|---|---|
| Solid, no picture | Panel asleep or input hang | Power via TV button; try long unplug; pull HDMI |
| Slow blink during boot | Normal firmware start in progress | Wait 2–3 minutes; hold Reset if stuck |
| Fast blink loop | Corrupt settings or device conflict | Pinhole Reset; boot with HDMI cables removed |
| No light at all | No AC reach or failed cord/outlet | Swap outlets/cord; test strip; inspect connector fit |
Network Quirks That Feel Like Power Trouble
Some sets appear “dead” when they hang waiting for network during resume. If the LED blinks twice at a time and then sits, that can be a sign of network setup. Boot the TV with Ethernet unplugged and Wi-Fi off at the router. Reach the home screen first, then set up the network. If wake-from-standby keeps failing only when the router is busy, use a manual IP or reserve an address on the router to avoid DHCP stumbles.
When The Screen Stays Black But Sound Plays
Check the backlight. In a dark room, point a flashlight at the screen from a few inches away. If you faintly see menus, the LCD is alive and the backlight path is out. That moves the issue to a part-level repair. For a no-tools test, leave the set on for 5 minutes, then feel for gentle warmth at the rear panel. Warmth with no picture often matches a failed backlight array or driver board.
Safe Factory Reset And Recovery
If the set boots only partway, the pinhole Reset is the cleanest path. Keep the press long—short taps won’t scrub stored settings. After the wipe, walk through language, network, and updates. If the TV offers a recovery screen, follow the prompts to reinstall the Roku software fresh. This clears stubborn update loops and gets you back to a known-good state.
Preventive Habits That Keep Starts Clean
- Use a surge protector with a fresh MOV or a UPS that delivers stable voltage.
- Leave a little space around the set for airflow; heat ages power parts faster.
- Let updates finish before pulling the plug; watch for progress bars after shutdown.
- Avoid daisy-chaining HDMI gear; long chains confuse CEC during wake-up.
- Keep the remote’s batteries fresh; weak cells cause false presses during boot.
Proof-Of-Fix Flow You Can Follow
- Wall outlet only, cord fully seated, panel button to start.
- Fresh remote batteries; IR test with a phone camera.
- Ten-minute unplug; 30-second hold on panel power while unplugged.
- Pinhole Reset 15–20 seconds until logo shows.
- Boot with no HDMI devices; add them back one at a time.
- Toggle CEC: off for tests, on later if you want one-remote control.
- If starts fail only after sleep, run a menu-based factory reset.
When Repair Beats More DIY
If none of the steps bring a logo screen, the fault may sit with the power board, main board, or backlight driver. Parts and labor can rival the cost of a new set on older models. If the panel button never wakes the TV and there’s still no standby LED on a proven outlet, schedule service or price a replacement. If the set boots only with HDMI cables removed, the issue likely sits with one device; leave that device off the chain or insert an HDMI isolator.
What To Save Before A Full Wipe
A factory wipe clears channels and settings. Before you reset from menus, snap photos of picture settings, rename inputs again after the reset, and sign back into apps with a password manager nearby. This keeps your setup time short and avoids guesswork.
Why These Steps Work
Power cycling drains stray charge that keeps chips in a half-awake state. A long pinhole press reloads defaults so the TV can rebuild its boot files. Removing HDMI devices cuts noisy control signals that can hold the set in standby. Toggling CEC lets you choose stable behavior first, then add convenience later. These steps aim at the most common failure points first, then walk toward rarer board faults.