Blown fuse, bad relay, failed motor, loose linkage, stripped arms, frozen blades, or ice buildup are the usual reasons wipers quit or stall.
Quick Symptoms, Likely Causes, And First Moves
| Symptom | Likely Cause | What To Do Now |
|---|---|---|
| Wipers dead on all speeds | Blown fuse, failed relay, bad motor, broken ground | Check fuse box, swap relay, test for power at motor connector |
| Only high speed works | Faulty switch or resistor inside motor | Test switch, scan for codes on newer cars, plan motor replacement |
| Stops mid-sweep | Seized linkage, worn motor, thermal cutout cycling | Free pivots, inspect transmission, check current draw |
| One arm moves, other stays | Loose arm nut, stripped splines, popped linkage bushing | Tighten arm, reattach or replace bushing, inspect splines |
| Slow or weak sweep | Dry pivots, failing motor, low voltage | Lubricate pivots, test battery/alternator, measure voltage drop |
| Chatter and skip | Hardened blade, dirty glass, wrong angle | Clean glass and blade, reset arm angle, replace blades |
| Fuse pops again | Shorted wiring, seized motor or linkage | Unplug motor, try new fuse; if it holds, motor or linkage is binding |
| Nozzle sprays, wipers don’t move | Switch fault, relay, motor failure | Listen for relay click, verify power at motor |
| Wipers cycle once when starting | Left on before shutdown, rain sensor self-test | Turn stalk off before engine off; check owner settings |
| Winter: blades won’t lift off glass | Ice bonding, frozen pivots | Defrost glass, use de-icer, never force frozen arms |
Why Windshield Wipers Stop Working: Common Causes
Blown fuse. A sudden stop across all speeds often points to a fuse. Road grime and water can load the motor and linkage until current spikes. Match the fuse amp rating, and if a new fuse fails again, look for a seized linkage or a shorted motor, not just the fuse itself.
Bad relay. Many cars drive the motor through a dedicated relay. A stuck or burned contact can leave the motor without power or make it intermittent. Swapping with an identical relay in the panel is a quick test.
Wiper motor failure. Brushes wear, commutators pit, and internal thermal protectors open when the arms are stuck in snow or ice. Signs include slow sweep, hot motor housing, or stopping in random spots. On some models the park switch inside the motor fails, so the blades stop mid-stroke.
Linkage or “transmission” wear. Plastic bushings pop off, steel pivots dry out, and the crank can loosen on the motor shaft. You may see the motor turning while the arms stay put, or one arm moving with a lazy arc.
Loose or stripped wiper arms. The tapered spline that clamps the arm to the pivot can strip, especially if someone ran the wipers on ice. A new arm and correct torque brings back full sweep.
Faulty stalk switch or control module. Intermittent logic usually lives inside the switch or a body control module. When only certain delay steps fail, that’s a clue. Scan tools on newer cars can pull codes for the rain sensor or wiper module.
Wiring and grounds. Corrosion under the cowl or at the motor ground strap starves the motor of current. Look for green crust on connectors, stiff harnesses, and broken insulation where the harness bends.
Frozen blades and ice buildup. Running wipers on icy glass can stall the motor and shear bushings. Free the blades with the defroster or a proper de-icer first; a plastic scraper finishes the job.
Old blades and dirty glass. Hardened rubber can squeal or stutter, and a film on the glass makes the blades stick. Clean both with washer fluid or mild soap, then replace blades that leave lines.
Every modern car sold in the U.S. includes a power-driven wiping system with two speeds by rule, which makes a dead or weak system a repair you shouldn’t ignore. Standards define minimum wipe speeds and swept area, so a slow or incomplete sweep isn’t just annoying—it can miss required wipe area.
Fixing Windshield Wipers That Stopped Working: Step-By-Step
Stay Safe First
If the sky opens while you’re moving and the wipers quit, ease off the throttle, turn on hazards, and change lanes toward a safe pull-off. Use the defroster for airflow across the glass to clear fog. Pull under shelter or stop well off the roadway before any hands-on work.
Protect The Glass
Lay a towel along the lower edge of the windshield before lifting an arm. If a spring-loaded arm snaps back with no blade attached, the bare hook can crack glass. Many roadside installs go wrong here, so protect the pane. See AAA’s blade replacement steps for a safe routine.
Check Power And Fuses
Find the fuse and relay box. Match the diagram on the panel lid or your manual. Replace a blown fuse with the same rating. If it pops twice, leave the motor unplugged and try again to isolate whether the short is in the motor or the feed.
Quick Relay Test
Swap the wiper relay with another relay of the same part number in the panel. If the wipers wake up, get a new relay and keep the borrowed one where it belongs.
Test The Motor
Unplug the motor connector. With the switch on, the power feed should light a test lamp or read battery voltage on a meter. Ground the lamp at the motor housing to check for a clean ground path. Power without motion points to a bad motor or locked linkage.
Inspect Arms And Linkage
Flip the caps at the arm bases and check the nuts. If a nut spins freely, the spline may be stripped. With the cowl panel off, watch the link rods while a helper cycles the switch. A rod that hops off its post needs a new bushing or a linkage assembly.
Free Iced Wipers Correctly
Run the defroster on high. Use a de-icing spray or rubbing alcohol along the rubber edge. Lift gently only after the bond releases. Forcing a frozen arm bends linkages and ruins motors.
Replace Old Blades The Right Way
Measure each blade, buy the exact sizes, and follow the hook or pin instructions. Place a towel on the glass while swapping. Replace blades as a pair so both sides clear evenly. For blade types and fit, see Consumer Reports’ wiper advice.
When Wipers Work Off And On
Intermittent settings depend on either resistors in the motor or a small module inside the switch. If the delay steps work but low speed doesn’t, the motor’s low circuit is likely cooked. If the blades pause randomly, a weak motor or a sticky linkage may be tripping the motor’s internal protector.
Rain-sensing systems add another layer. A dirty area in front of the sensor can trick the logic. Clean the glass where the sensor sits and reset sensitivity in the vehicle menu if that feature exists.
What To Do If Windshield Wipers Stop Working In Rain
Cut speed, increase space, and track the lane lines with reference points near the hood. Run the blower on warm and direct it at the glass. Hydrophobic treatments can buy a few minutes of visibility, yet they don’t replace a working wiper system. If heavy spray returns faster than airflow can clear it, exit and wait out the cell.
Never hang your head out of the window to see. Stay inside the beltline and let traffic pass. If you stop on the shoulder, angle the car so splash from trucks doesn’t soak the windshield again while you work. U.S. rules such as FMVSS 104 wipe-speed rules set the baseline, but upkeep sits with the driver.
Typical Costs, Time, And DIY Difficulty
| Fix | Parts/Service Range* | DIY Time & Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| New blades | $12–$40 per pair | 10–15 minutes, easy |
| Fuse or relay | $5–$25 | 5–10 minutes, easy |
| Arm tightening or replacement | $0–$60 per arm | 10–20 minutes, easy |
| Linkage/bushing kit | $20–$120 | 45–90 minutes, moderate |
| Wiper motor | $80–$250 part, plus labor | 60–120 minutes, moderate |
| Switch or module | $60–$200 part, plus labor | 30–90 minutes, moderate |
*Prices vary by model and region.
Maintenance Habits That Prevent Wiper Headaches
- Swap blades on a regular rhythm. Many drivers change them every six months, especially in sun and heat. See AAA’s step-by-step.
- Clean the windshield at every fuel stop. A smooth surface lets the rubber glide.
- Top the washer bottle and aim the nozzles correctly. A good spray keeps the edge wet.
- Turn wipers off before shutting the engine off. On restart after a storm, a frozen sweep can load the system.
- Use winter-rated washer fluid in cold months. Plain water can freeze in the lines.
- Free ice before pressing the stalk. Heat, de-icer, then a gentle lift—never pry with the blade.
Costs, Warranties, And When To See A Pro
Many parts stores will install new blades at the curb after purchase, which saves time and prevents broken glass from a snapped arm. Motors and linkages vary by car; compact hatches often have easy access under a plastic cowl, while some sedans hide fasteners deep under trim. If the harness looks damaged, the fuse keeps blowing with the motor unplugged, or the arms don’t park even with a new motor, a shop visit is smart. Modern cars with rain sensors or ADAS cameras near the glass may need careful realignment after windshield work, so always follow the service notes for your model.
Myths And Mistakes To Avoid
- Running wipers on dry glass “to test them.” This scuffs rubber and streaks the next rain.
- Pouring hot water on a frozen windshield. The thermal shock can crack the pane.
- Using the wrong blade sizes “for extra reach.” Oversize blades can hit trim and overload the motor.
- Forcing stuck arms. If they don’t lift, melt the ice and try again.
- Ignoring streaks. Lines in the wipe path mean the edge is torn, contaminated, or angled wrong.
Checklist: Get Your Wipers Back Today
- Park safe, towel the glass, and lift one arm at a time.
- Check the fuse and swap the relay once.
- Test for power and ground at the motor connector.
- Tighten arm nuts and watch the linkage under the cowl.
- Free ice, then fit fresh blades of the correct sizes.
- If power is present and the linkage turns hard, replace the motor and repair the binding parts.
Clear vision is not optional. A few quick checks bring dead wipers back to life and keep you rolling when the weather turns.
Tool Tips For Fast Diagnosis
You don’t need a full toolbox to pinpoint most faults. A $5 test lamp tells you if power and ground reach the motor; a multimeter adds voltage-drop checks that find weak grounds and corroded connectors. A trim tool lifts cowl clips without cracking them. A torque wrench keeps new arms from stripping splines again. Painter’s tape marks the parked position before you loosen anything, so the sweep lands where it should. When you reattach a linkage, add a dab of waterproof grease to each pivot. After any blade swap, run the washers and watch the edge track across the glass. If the arc rides too high or low, reset the arms on their splines so they clear the pillar and the hood line.
Keep spare fuses in the glove box to speed roadside fixes.
Stay ready.