Dermaplaning is a cosmetic exfoliation procedure that uses a sterile blade to scrape away dead skin cells and fine facial hair, temporarily leaving skin smoother and brighter.
If you’ve seen the smooth, glowing results of dermaplaning on social media and wondered whether the procedure actually works — or if it’s safe — you’re asking the right question. The honest answer is that dermaplaning delivers real cosmetic benefits, but it does not change your skin permanently. The procedure removes surface-level dead skin cells and vellus hair (peach fuzz), giving your skin a temporarily smoother texture and more even tone. Here’s exactly what that means for your face and what it cannot do.
What Dermaplaning Does to Your Skin
The procedure uses a sterile surgical scalpel or a specialized blade to gently scrape the topmost layers of your skin. Cleveland Clinic describes it as a minimally invasive treatment that shaves away dead skin cells and fine hair. The immediate effects are purely cosmetic and temporary.
- Smoothes skin texture — removing the top layer of dead cells leaves the surface feeling softer and looking more even.
- Temporarily removes peach fuzz — vellus hair is shaved off at the surface, which also makes makeup glide on more smoothly.
- Improves product absorption — topical creams and serums can penetrate more effectively without a layer of dead cells and hair in the way.
- May reduce the appearance of fine lines — by evening out the skin’s surface, shallow lines can look less noticeable temporarily.
That’s what the procedure actually accomplishes. It’s a surface-level refresh, not a structural change to your skin.
What Dermaplaning Does NOT Do
The marketing around dermaplaning often claims benefits that the available evidence does not support. It’s important to separate real cosmetic effects from exaggerated promises.
- It does not stimulate collagen production — Harvard Health notes that studies have not shown dermaplaning builds collagen or improves skin discoloration.
- It does not stop aging — the treatment removes only surface cells; it cannot affect deeper structural aging changes like collagen loss or elastin breakdown.
- It does not make hair grow back thicker or darker — vellus hair regrows at the same texture and color as before, a fact confirmed by multiple medical sources.
- It does not permanently remove lines or scars — it may make shallow lines and mild acne scars look less noticeable for a few weeks, but it does not eliminate them.
How Long Results Last and How Often to Do It
Because dermaplaning only removes surface-layer cells and hair that grows back naturally, results are strictly temporary. Most people see the smoothest effect for about three to four weeks, or until the peach fuzz regrows noticeably. Some sources report results lasting up to eight weeks depending on individual hair growth cycles and skin metabolism.
Dermatologists and aestheticians typically recommend dermaplaning no more than once every four weeks — roughly once or twice per month. Doing it more frequently, especially daily or every other day, risks damaging delicate facial skin and causing irritation, breakouts, or scarring.
Safety, Side Effects, and Who Should Skip It
Dermaplaning is a low-risk cosmetic procedure when performed correctly by a trained professional. At-home dermaplaning carries a higher chance of minor injury, including nicks, cuts, and irritation. Johns Hopkins Medicine notes that professional dermaplaning for deeper acne scars uses a different instrument (a dermatome with an oscillating blade), which is a separate procedure aimed at a different goal.
Common potential side effects include temporary redness, small cuts, breakouts, and, in rare cases, scarring if the procedure is done too aggressively. Dermaplaning can also expose the skin to bacteria, which may worsen active acne. It is not recommended if you have active skin conditions like cystic acne, rosacea flare-ups, eczema, or sunburn.
Professional vs. At-Home Dermaplaning
A professional treatment at a dermatologist’s office, med spa, or licensed aesthetician typically costs between $150 and $350 per session in the U.S. and is not covered by insurance. That investment buys sterile equipment, trained technique, and lower risk of injury.
At-home dermaplaning is significantly cheaper but carries greater risk of nicks and irritation. If you decide to try it yourself, use a clean, sharp razor made specifically for facial shaving. Hold the skin taut with one hand, keep the blade at about a 45-degree angle, and use short, light strokes. Finish with a moisturizer. For a practical guide on choosing safe, effective tools for this purpose, our roundup of the best at-home dermaplaning tools covers what to look for and what to avoid.
FAQs
Is dermaplaning safe for all skin types?
Oily and acne-prone skin can react with more breakouts because the procedure temporarily exposes pores to bacteria.
Does hair grow back thicker after dermaplaning?
No. Multiple medical sources confirm that shaving or dermaplaning facial hair does not change its texture, color, or growth rate. The hair regrows with the same thickness and color it had before.
Can dermaplaning remove acne scars permanently?
Dermaplaning can make mild, shallow acne scars look less noticeable for a few weeks by smoothing the top layer of skin, but it does not remove or permanently improve scar tissue. Deep scars require treatments like professional dermabrasion or laser therapy.
References & Sources
- Cleveland Clinic. “Dermaplaning.” Describes the procedure as minimally invasive, its cosmetic benefits, and safety considerations.
- Johns Hopkins Medicine. “Dermabrasion and Dermaplaning.” Explains the clinical use of a dermatome for deeper acne scar treatment.
- Harvard Health Publishing. “Is it safe to dermaplane my face?” Addresses at-home safety, the lack of evidence for collagen stimulation, and regrowth myths.
