Start with 80–120 for stripping, 150–180 for shaping, 220–320 before stain or paint, and 320–400+ between finish coats.
Wrong grit chews up wood. Right grit saves time and gives a silky surface. This guide lays out clear sequences for stripping, shaping, and finishing furniture with confidence.
You’ll see grit ranges for raw wood, old finishes, veneer, hardwoods, and softwoods. We’ll cover hand sanding, random-orbital tips, and traps that push projects off course. The aim is simple: fewer scratches, flatter parts, and a clean base for stain, paint, or clear coat.
Choosing Sandpaper Grit For Furniture Refinishing
Grit numbers show how coarse the abrasive is. Low numbers cut fast and leave deep grooves. High numbers cut slow and leave tiny scratches that vanish under finish. Most projects follow a short ladder: a coarse start if the surface is rough, a mid step to clear the heavy pattern, then a fine step before finishing.
On bare wood, a classic three-step track works well: begin at 80–100 to level heavy defects or remove stubborn film, jump to 120–150 to refine, and stop at 180–220 for a smooth, even face. See the advice in Norton’s bare-wood guide for the 80→120 or 100→150 jump and a 220 stop on many builds.
Task To Grit Map For Furniture Work
| Task | Furniture Condition | Typical Grit Range |
|---|---|---|
| Strip thick paint/varnish by sanding | Old, tough coatings | 60–80, then 100–120 |
| Level dents and deep scratches | Solid wood parts | 80–100 then 120–150 |
| General shaping on raw wood | Edges and flats | 100–120 then 150–180 |
| Pre-stain or pre-paint prep | Solid hardwood/softwood | 180–220 |
| Prep over primer | Cabinets, legs, frames | 220–320 light scuff |
| Between clear coats | Poly, lacquer, water-borne | 320–400+ |
| Final rub-out or polish | After full cure | 600–1500, then compound |
| Veneer touch-ups | Thin factory veneer | 180–220 with light pressure |
Between coats, the goal isn’t removal. You’re knocking down dust nibs and giving the next coat tooth. Many finish makers suggest 220–400 between coats. Minwax calls for 220 between coats on common clear finishes, while General Finishes lists 220 pads or 400 sheets across several systems.
Best Grit Sandpaper For Wood Furniture Repairs
Old finish with lots of wear. Start with 80 or 100 to cut through flaking film and flatten patches. Move to 120 or 150 to clear the coarse tracks. Stop at 180 or 220 before stain or primer. Chemical strippers can save time on heavy paint; sand after scraping to level fibers and residue.
Light refresh on an intact clear coat. Skip brutal grits. Scuff with 220–320 so a new coat bonds. Keep the pad flat and work evenly. Wipe dust, then recoat.
Repair dents or white rings. Spot sand with 120–150 on a block until flat. Feather the edges with 180–220. Rebuild the finish, sanding lightly between passes with 320–400.
Painted furniture. For sound paint, a 150–220 scuff gives fresh paint bite. After primer dries, knock back nibs with 220–320, then apply your color. Many finish-sand color with 320 before the last coat for a smooth look.
Stained furniture. Final sanding on bare wood at 180–220 helps stain lay even. Too coarse leaves telegraphed grooves. Too fine can reduce dye uptake on some species. Test a small spot when in doubt.
Veneer pieces. Veneer can be thinner than a credit card. Begin at 180–220 with gentle pressure and a firm block. Stay away from edges with power sanders. A few light passes beat one heavy pass.
Picking The Right Sandpaper Grit For Wooden Furniture
Match grit to the task. Removing material calls for low numbers. Smoothing for finish calls for high numbers. The jump between grits matters too. Big jumps leave ghost scratches. Tiny jumps waste time. A clean rule helps: when the scratch pattern from the prior step is gone, move up one step. The Norton tip of 80→120 or 100→150 follows that rhythm.
Watch the scale letters as well. Papers marked with a “P” (P180, P320) use the FEPA scale, which isn’t identical to CAMI. They’re close, yet not the same. Stick with one scale within a project when you can, so the scratch pattern steps feel consistent.
Hand Sanding Vs. Random Orbital
A random-orbital sander levels fast and keeps swirls in check. Let the pad float; don’t lean on it. Move slowly, overlap rows, and vacuum often. For the last pass, switch to hand sanding with the grain using the same final grit. That quick pass erases faint swirls that a round pad can leave.
Sanding Blocks, Sponges, And Pads
Flat parts want a hard, flat block. Curves and carvings want a soft pad or sponge that wraps the shape. Foam pads marked as 220 often cut a touch finer once they break in; the General Finishes FAQ notes a used 220 pad can act like 400, which makes it handy for between-coat work.
Grit Progressions That Work
Bare table top, solid wood. Pencil a light scribble grid over the surface. Sand with 100 until the marks vanish. Move to 150 and repeat. Finish with 180 or 220. Dampen with a wet rag to raise grain, dry, and hit a quick pass at the final grit.
Chair with spindles and curves. Use 120 on a flexible pad, then 150. Finish at 180–220. On turned parts, rotate the piece while sanding to avoid flats. A strip of sandpaper works like a belt for tight curves.
Drawers and casework. Inside surfaces don’t need mirror gloss. Go 150, then 180. On visible faces, add a 220 step for clarity.
Primed cabinet door. After primer dries hard, level with 220 on a flat block. Feel for rough patches and nibs. Step to 320 for a quick kiss, wipe clean, and spray or brush the color coat.
Clear coat build. After each coat cures to “sandable,” use 320–400 with a soft block or a gray pad. You’re shaving nibs, not cutting through. If you break through, touch up color or stain before the next coat.
Dust Control And Lighting
Clogged paper scratches. Keep a crepe stick or vacuum at hand. A raking shop light across the surface exposes swirl and low spots. Wipe with a microfiber cloth or tack rag before any finish hits the wood.
Finish Types And Between-Coat Grits
Different films like different scratch depths. Oil-based polys are happy at 220–320. Water-borne topcoats often like 320–400 because they sink into finer scratches and dry fast. Lacquer sprays level well and can take a very fine scuff. Makers publish targets: see the Minwax note on 220 between coats and the General Finishes tips for 220 pads or 400 sheets between passes.
Between-Coat Guide By Finish
| Finish | Between-Coat Grit | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Oil-based polyurethane | 220–320 | Light touch; wait full dry time |
| Water-borne polyurethane | 320–400 | Fast dry; watch raised grain |
| Lacquer | 320–400+ | Sprays level; very light scuff |
| Shellac | 320–400 | Burnishes fast; don’t linger |
| Paint (over primer) | 220–320 | Knock nibs; avoid cut-throughs |
| Wax or oil finish | 400–600 | Often buffed with pads or wool |
Common Mistakes With Sandpaper Grit
Starting too fine. Sanding 180 on a battered top just polishes hills and leaves valleys. Start with enough bite to flatten, then move up.
Jumping too far. Going from 80 to 220 leaves hidden 80-grit tracks. Step through an intermediate grit so the pattern clears cleanly.
Leaning on the sander. Pressure slows the pad and digs tracks. Keep the pad flat and let the abrasive do the work.
Skipping the hand pass. One quick hand pass with the final grit, with the grain, lifts clarity on tabletops and rails.
Ignoring species quirks. Open-pore woods like oak mask fine scratches better than tight-pore maple. Maple often needs a careful 180–220 finish step and a clean wipe before dye.
Neglecting edges. Edges burn through fast. Sand faces first, then break edges lightly with the final grit.
Quick Picks: Grit Recipes For Popular Furniture Jobs
Refinish a dining table to clear. Strip chemicals if needed. 100 → 150 → 180/220 on the top. 120 → 180 on aprons. Stain if desired. Seal, then 320 between coats of clear until you hit the build you like. After cure, wet sand 600–1000 and buff.
Paint a dresser. Degrease. 150–180 scuff overall. Spot prime bare wood. Full prime if stain bleed is a risk. Level primer at 220–320. Spray or roll two color coats, sanding 320 between. Optional clear coat for durability, scuffed at 320–400.
Revive a walnut chair. Hand sand 120 on flats, 150 on curves. Finish at 180–220. Wipe dust. Apply oil or a wiping varnish. After each coat, scuff with 320–400 and wipe clean.
Fix white rings. Steam them out with a damp cloth and moderate heat if the finish allows. If sanding is required, spot sand 150, feather 180–220, touch up color, and build clear with 320 between thin coats.
Technique Tips That Change Results
Mark and check. Pencil guide marks reveal low spots and tell you when a grit has finished its job. No marks left means move on.
Control the pace. A slow, even stroke with overlap produces flat parts. Fast passes leave waves. Count seconds per board foot to keep rhythm.
Keep fresh abrasives. If the sheet smears or loads, swap it. A clogged sheet rubs heat and can glaze film finishes.
Mind the dust. Hook a vac to the sander. Empty it often. Wear a mask rated for fine dust.
Test on a hidden area. Sand a small back edge through your planned steps, wipe, and apply stain or finish. Adjust before you touch the show face.
Trusted References For Grit Choices
Need backup while you work? Cross-check the grit ladders from Norton, the between-coat guidance from Minwax, and the sanding tips from General Finishes as you dial in the final pass.