220-grit is for final wood prep, scuffing between coats, de-nibbing primer or paint, and smoothing light flaws without cutting away much material.
What 220-Grit Really Does
220-grit sits in the extra-fine range (Norton guidance). The abrasive particles are small enough to refine a surface yet large enough to leave micro-tooth for the next layer. On bare wood it brings the last bit of smoothness before a clear coat. On cured finishes it knocks down dust nibs and levels tiny ridges so the next coat lays flatter. On primer or paint it feathers specks, brush marks, and orange peel without digging ruts.
Using 220 Grit Sandpaper For Wood Prep
When shaping is done with coarser grits, 220 takes over as the final pass for many clear finishes. Most hardwood furniture parts land at 180 or 220 before the first coat. Softer species may blotch with stain if sanded too high; many finishers stop at 150–180 before pigment stain, then come back with 220 after the first sealer or sanding sealer. Veneer faces benefit from 220 because it reduces the risk of cutting through, as long as pressure stays light and the block is flat. Edges and end grain also like a quick 220 pass to soften the feel and ease sharp spots.
| Task | Why 220 Works | Typical Next Step |
|---|---|---|
| Final pass on bare hardwood before clear coat | Smooths tool marks and leaves fine scratch pattern | Apply sealer or first coat |
| Light scuff between coats of polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer | De-nibs dust and improves adhesion | Wipe dust and recoat |
| Smoothing raised grain after a water-based coat | Levels whiskers without cutting through | Wipe, then apply next coat |
| De-nibbing primer or painted trim | Feathers specks and brush marks | Clean and apply topcoat |
| Scuff sanding an existing finish | Adds micro-tooth for paint or clear coat | Clean well, then apply finish |
| Refining lathe work after 150–180 | Removes fine rings and flat spots | Move to 320 if needed, then finish |
Bare Wood Before Clear Coats
After flattening with 120 or 150 and refining with 180, a pass with 220 evens the scratch pattern and helps level pores. Wipe the surface across the grain with a dry cloth and check under raking light. If you still see long, deep lines from earlier grits, drop back, clear those, and then return to 220. On tight-grained hardwoods, the 220 scratch merges under shellac, lacquer, or polyurethane and yields a silky touch.
Before Stain On Softwoods
Pine, fir, and similar species can blotch when sanded too high before pigment stain. Many woodworkers stop at 150 or 180 for color, then sand the first sealer with 220 for smoothness. If you use a pre-stain conditioner, sand to 220 in the direction of grain, apply the conditioner, then color. That path gives more even uptake and keeps the surface smooth.
Veneer And Thin Stock
Veneer faces are easy to damage with coarse grits. A light 220 pass reduces the risk of cut-through while still cleaning glue smears and planer fuzz. Use a firm, wide block and keep strokes long. Watch the edges and outside corners; they burn through first. If the face still shows mill ripple after 220, step back to 180 for a few strokes and return to 220.
Edges, Profiles, And End Grain
Edges look best with a crisp line. Roll a half sheet of 220 and touch the arris just enough to lose the knife feel. On routed profiles, a 220 sponge follows the curves and erases light chatter. End grain drinks finish. To balance color with the face, sand end grain a grade or two higher than the faces, often 220 followed by 320, then seal.
Using 220 Grit Between Coats Of Finish
Dust nibs and tiny ridges show up under gloss. A light 220 scuff levels those flaws and helps the next coat bond. Work with the grain and a soft block or a foam pad. Stop as soon as the surface feels uniformly smooth and looks dull. If you cut through, spot seal and let it dry before coating again. Many consumer finishes call for this step; see the Minwax guidance that specifies a light 220 scuff between coats.
Timing And Dryness
Sanding uncured finish smears and clogs the sheet. Wait for the coat to dry to a uniform dull; follow the can label for time and airflow. A test spot under a finger should powder, not gum. When the coat passes that test, a quick 220 scuff will level nibs and improve bond.
How Hard To Sand
Use only the weight of your hand. The goal is a uniform matte look, not removal of the coat. A gray scratch pad marked 320 can be paired with 220 paper for inside corners and profiles. Keep dust down and wipe with a clean cloth before recoating.
When To Skip The Scuff
Some floor polys allow coat-to-coat without sanding inside a short window. Outside that window, a 220 scuff is the safe path to bond the next coat. Always read the label for recoat windows and compatibility, then choose your approach.
Painting And 220-Grit: Primer, Cabinets, Trim
Dry primer sands well with 220. A quick pass knocks down stipple and raised fibers on doors, frames, and cabinets. Follow with a tack wipe and lay on the color. Between colored coats, keep the touch light. On high-gloss trim you may prefer 320–400 to keep scratches from telegraphing.
Primer Leveling
Brush or spray primer, let it dry, then hit it with 220 on a soft pad. That smooths stipple, dust, and feathered repairs on doors and built-ins. Clean the dust from corners and panel grooves with a soft brush and a vac.
Metal, Plastic, And Other Materials
On steel or aluminum, 220 blends small scratches and gives a tooth for primers rated for metal. For mirror-like topcoats, move to 320–400 before color. Acrylic and polycarbonate scratch easily; start finer, often 400 or higher, or go to polishing systems made for plastics. Drywall joint compound cuts fast and can groove with 220 if pressure is high; many installers stay around 150–180 and switch to a pole sander or sponge for edges, then reserve 220 for a light touch on nibs.
Metal Surfaces
After degreasing, 180 or 220 gives primer a consistent tooth on brackets, legs, and small housings. For high gloss color coats, step to 320–400 so the scratch does not print.
Plastics And Acrylics
Clear plastics show scratches. Most polishing kits start at 400–600, then move finer. Reserve 220 for opaque parts that need light scuffing for paint.
Common Mistakes With 220-Grit
Walk the grit ladder: 120 or 150, then 180, then 220. Pressing hard loads the sheet and polishes peaks instead of cutting. Keep the pad moving and finish by hand with the grain to avoid halos. On knotty pine and similar boards, sanding to 220 before a pigment stain can mute the color; stop at 150–180 for the color stage, then sand sealer with 220.
Quick How-To: Hand Sanding With 220
1) Mark the surface lightly with a pencil to track progress. 2) Wrap the sheet around a flat cork or rubber block. 3) Sand with the grain using short strokes and light pressure. 4) Vacuum, then wipe with a barely damp cloth or a tack cloth. 5) Inspect under raking light; repeat only where needed.
Choosing The Right 220-Grit Format
Sheets fit blocks. Discs pair with random-orbit sanders. Sponges flex over profiles. Open-coat aluminum oxide resists clogging on resinous woods. Stearated papers shed paint dust and finish dust well. Mesh clears dust through the sheet when paired with a vac base. Silicon carbide can run wet on finishes to control dust.
| Project | Typical Grit Sequence | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Bare hardwood, clear coat | 120 → 150/180 → 220 | Stop at 180 on open-pore species if staining |
| Pine or softwood with stain | 120 → 150/180 | Use a conditioner, then scuff the sealer with 220 |
| Water-based clear on furniture | 150/180 → 220 between coats → 320 final rub | Light pressure between coats |
| Cabinet doors with primer and enamel | 150/180 on bare wood → prime → 220 on primer → color → 320 on nibs | Keep edges crisp; avoid cut-through |
| Metal part before primer | 180 → 220 → 320 | Wipe with solvent approved for the coating |
Grit Numbers And Standards
You will see two labels around this range: 220 and P220. The first is the U.S. CAMI scale; the second is the European FEPA P scale. Both land in a similar cut. P220 lists a median particle near the mid-60 micron range, close to CAMI 220. Makers vary a bit, which is why one brand can feel slightly sharper than another even with the same printed grade. Reference charts from Washington Mills show P220 in this range.
CAMI Versus FEPA
U.S. coated papers often show 220 without a prefix. European papers often show P220. The feel is close, and both live in the same working band.
When 220-Grit Is Not The Right Choice
Shaping and paint removal start with coarser sheets. Save 220 for refining, bond between coats, and light leveling. For automotive coatings, start wet sanding near 600 unless the product says otherwise.
Simple Care And Safety
Hook sanders to a vac, keep filters clean, and wipe benches so grit does not mar the next part. Wear a snug respirator with a particulate filter, eye protection, and hearing protection with power tools. Bag used sheets and store oily rags in a tight metal can.
Scratch Pattern And Finish Clarity
A 220 scratch is fine enough to hide under most clear film builds while still giving the next coat something to grip. You can preview the look by wiping a test area with a compatible solvent or water on sealed wood; the darkened surface reveals leftover coarse tracks that need more work. If you see long arcs or cross-grain scars, drop back one grit, clean that zone, and return to 220 for the final pass.
Random-Orbit Results With 220
Match the disc to the pad. A thin hard pad cuts flatter; a soft interface pad follows gentle curves. Align the holes so the vac can pull dust. Keep the sander flat, move at a slow, steady pace, and lift off only after the pad stops. On end grain and narrow rails, switch to hand sanding to protect edges.
Grain Raising And 220
Water-based sealers lift fibers on the first coat. Let that coat dry fully, then knock the whiskers back with a few light strokes of 220. The goal is a silky feel, not removal of the coat. Wipe the dust and recoat. The second coat usually stays smooth with only a quick de-nib between coats if a speck lands.
Buying And Replacing 220
Sheets come in packs from a few pieces to contractor sleeves. Keep fresh stock near the bench so you do not push dull paper. Signs of a spent sheet include glazing, extra heat, and a polished look with little cutting. Rotate to a new face or a new sheet as soon as progress slows. Sponges also wear; as the grit dulls, they turn into burnishers. Save worn sponges for a soft rub on a final coat.
Abrasive Minerals At 220
Most woodworking sheets in this grade use aluminum oxide. It fractures during use and keeps cutting. Silicon carbide is sharper and friable; it excels on cured finishes, primer, and metal, and it can run wet. Ceramic blends show up more in lower grits for heavy stock removal, yet you may see them in discs for long life. Any of these will work at 220; pick by the surface and your tool.
Storage And Labeling
Loose sheets pick up grit from the bench and leave mystery scratches. Keep 220 in a labeled folder or pouch. Separate used sheets from fresh ones. Mark the back with a pencil to track use. Clean out the sander’s dust pad and the shop vac nozzle so chips do not streak the next pass.