What Is A Featherboard? | Grip, Guide, Guard

Featherboards look simple: a flat body with flexible fingers cut on a bias. Put that shape in the right spot and it applies steady side pressure as you feed wood. The result is cleaner rips, steady routing, and far fewer close calls. Once you try one, it lives on your saw or router table like a seat belt lives in a car.

Featherboard basics and how it works

Think of a featherboard as a spring that pushes sideways. The fingers flex only in the feed direction, so the board moves forward but resists pullback. Set the base tight in a miter slot or clamp it to the table or fence. With light preload, the fingers kiss the work and hold it against the fence or table. That grip fights chatter and wandering, which boosts accuracy and lowers kickback risk.

Here’s a quick guide to common formats and where they shine.

Format	Where It Mounts	Best For
Standard slot-mounted	Miter slot or T-slot	General ripping, repeat cuts on a table saw
Dual-stack set	Two units piggybacked	Tall stock and extra hold on long rips
Fence clamp style	Clamps into fence track	Thin rips where slot access is blocked
Magnetic base	Cast iron top	Fast setup on band saws and shapers
Router table featherboard	Miter slot or fence face	Edge profiles, raised panels, cope cuts
Pivoting heel style	Fence face	Pressing work down to the table
DIY wooden	Clamps or slots	Custom sizes for odd jobs

Side pressure helps you keep hands away from danger zones and tames kickback. For a broader view of saw hazards and safe setups, see the U.S. OSHA machine hazards guide and the CCOHS table saw tips. Those pages explain nip points, feed control, guards, and good housekeeping around blades and cutters.

Core parts and motion

The body stays rigid. The fingers do the work. They’re cut at a shallow angle so they bend one way and resist the other. Preload comes from shifting the featherboard a hair toward the work before locking it down. You should feel drag but still feed smoothly. If the board stalls or burns, back off the pressure and try again.

Mounting methods vary. Slot-mounted models use expanding bars or T-bolts. Magnetic bases snap to cast iron. Fence styles ride in accessory tracks. Clamped wood versions work too, as long as the base can’t creep during a cut.

What it does for safety and cut quality

A featherboard holds stock flush to the fence. That reduces the chance of pinch on the blade’s rear teeth, which is a common path to kickback. It also keeps edges tight so rip faces stay straight and clean. On a router table, the fingers steady the pass and curb chatter, so profiles come out crisp even on narrow strips.

Setting up a featherboard on a table saw

Good setup takes a minute and pays for itself on the first cut. Work through these steps and you’ll get repeatable results.

Fence-mounted setup

1. Unplug the saw. Clear the table and fence face.
2. Set the fence for your rip width and lock it.
3. Place the featherboard so the fingers sit just ahead of the blade.
4. Preload by nudging the body toward the stock a few millimeters.
5. Lock the clamps. Test feed with the blade still off.
6. Adjust until you feel a smooth, even drag along the whole pass.

Miter slot setup

1. Fit the bars into the slot and expand until snug.
2. Slide the body so the fingers align at mid-height on the work.
3. Preload lightly. Lock the knobs. Run a dry pass to check drag.
4. For tall stock, stack a second featherboard above the first.

Height, pressure, and feed direction

Finger tips should touch around mid-thickness. Too low pushes the piece upward. Too high loses leverage. The fingers must point with the feed. Reverse them and the board won’t flex, which can trap stock. Start with light pressure. Add a little more only if the board drifts from the fence.

Quick checks before the cut

• Blade guard or riving knife in place when the cut allows.
• Push stick or block within reach for narrow rips.
• No knots or twist that could pinch on the outfeed.
• Outfeed support ready for long boards.

What does a feather board do on a table saw?

On a saw, its main job is lateral control. That sideways push keeps the edge married to the fence from start to finish. With a steady feed, you get uniform width and fewer burn marks. Paired with a riving knife and a push stick, you build a simple system that cuts clean and lowers the odds of kickback. Keep the fence waxed and the top clean for glide.

For context on blade zones and guarding terms, university shop guides such as the Harvard EHS table saw sheet map out safe feed paths and tool choices.

Using a featherboard with a router table

Routing puts a spinning cutter against a moving workpiece. Any wobble shows up in the profile. Set one featherboard on the infeed side to press the edge into the fence. Add a second on the outfeed if you need extra steadiness. For tall doors or panels, mount a pair on the fence and one on the table to press the piece down.

Router table steps that just work

1. Unplug the router. Fit the right bit and set depth.
2. Square the fence to the bit’s bearing or setup block.
3. Position the first featherboard just ahead of the bit.
4. Preload until the stock slides with firm, even drag.
5. Use a guard or bit shield where possible.
6. Make a light test pass on scrap to confirm setup.

Choosing or making a featherboard

You can buy a set that drops into any slot or build one in an hour from scrap hardwood or HDPE. Store-bought models bring quick knobs, repeatable scales, and stack kits. Shop-made boards shine when you need a custom reach or an odd angle.

Store-bought picks

Look for stiff bodies, low-friction faces, and hardware that locks without creeping. Dual units stack to grab taller work. Magnetic bases speed moves on cast iron tops. Some designs use softer fingers that grip without marring.

DIY: cut one from a blank

1. Mill a flat blank about 19 mm thick and 75–100 mm wide.
2. Cut a 45 degree tip on one end.
3. Rip parallel kerfs to form fingers, leaving a solid heel.
4. Drill slots for bolts or plan clamping pads.
5. Ease sharp edges and wax the face.

Good dimensions

Finger length: 60–100 mm. Kerf spacing: 3–6 mm. Keep the heel at least 20 mm thick so the body stays rigid. For long rips, make a wide base so the clamps don’t tilt under load.

Featherboard myths and mistakes

Too much pressure

Cranking down feels safe, but it can bow the work and stall the feed. Aim for steady drag, not a clamp. If the offcut binds the blade, stop, raise the board, and reset.

Wrong finger angle or feed direction

The fingers must flex with the feed. If they point against the feed, they lock the stock. That can trap a board between the fence and blade. Realign the body so the fingers lean forward.

Using one on the outfeed side

Don’t place a featherboard past the blade on a table saw rip. The fingers can pinch the fresh cut and force the kerf closed. Keep them ahead of the cut so the trailing edge can relax.

Grabbing pieces too small

Very short parts are tough to control. Use sleds, carriers, or push blocks instead. Save featherboards for pieces long enough to ride past the fingers with support.

Maintenance, care, and storage

Brush pitch from the fingers. Add a wipe of paste wax to the face so stock slides without scuffing. Check knobs and bars for wear. If a finger cracks, retire the board or trim the damaged section and recut fresh fingers.

Store units flat to prevent warp. Keep a pair near each machine: one by the table saw, another by the router table, and a magnetic style parked on the band saw. Quick access means you’ll use them more.

When a featherboard isn’t the right choice

Crosscuts with a miter gauge or sled don’t benefit from side pressure near a rip fence. For those cuts, guide the piece with the fence or miter gauge only, never both at once. Wide panels that span the slot may also resist good placement. In that case a helper, a roller stand, or an outfeed table gives more control than a featherboard can.

Bad lumber is another red flag. If a board is twisted or cupped, side pressure can mask the problem and spring the piece as it leaves the blade. Joint one straight edge first or reach for a track saw. Save the featherboard for stock that sits flat and feeds predictably.

Push sticks, blocks, and other helpers

Think in layers. The featherboard handles side pressure. A riving knife keeps the kerf open. A push stick moves your hand away from the teeth. On a router table, a push block with a grippy sole keeps small parts stable. Used together, these simple aids create a smooth, predictable feed path.

• Push stick: Slim, with a notch for the tail of narrow rips.
• Push block: A wide handle with a non-slip pad for face pressure.
• Hold-down: A pivoting arm that presses work down to the table.
• Splitter or riving knife: Keeps the kerf from closing on the blade.

Keep these tools parked within easy reach. Many woodworkers hang them on the fence so they’re always in the same place. That small habit trims setup time and keeps your attention on the cut.

Materials and finger styles

Wood works well for shop-made versions. Choose straight-grained hardwood so the fingers flex without snapping. Plastic and composite bodies stay stable in damp shops and accept precise hardware. Some products use softer fingers that grip without denting a finished face. Whatever you use, a slick face and rigid base matter most.

Finger pattern sets the feel. Long, thin fingers bend with little force and spread pressure over a wide area. Short, stout fingers push harder in a small zone. For delicate mouldings, go long and soft. For heavy rips, go shorter and firmer. If you build your own, cut a few blanks and try different kerf spacing until the feed feels right.

Troubleshooting setup problems

My rip shows burn marks

Burn usually means friction. Ease the pressure a notch and polish the fence face with paste wax. Check for fence toe-in toward the blade. If the blade and fence aren’t parallel, any hold pressure will scrub the edge. A quick alignment fixes the mark and the push.

The stock catches or stalls

Back off the preload and lift the fingers a few millimeters. Rough mill marks can also snag. Sand the edge with a few light strokes or make a shallow first pass to establish a clean guide face.

Setup reference for common cuts

Task	Featherboard Placement	Notes
Narrow rip on table saw	One in the miter slot, fingers just ahead of blade	Add push stick and riving knife when allowed
Long rip on table saw	Stack two units for tall stock	Support outfeed and keep pressure modest
Dado or groove	One on the fence face	Use guard parts that fit the cut path
Edge profile on router table	One on infeed, one on outfeed	Light passes reduce chatter
Band saw resaw	Magnetic base just ahead of the blade	Set drift and feed slow

Put it to work

Clamp one on for your next rip or routing pass. Listen to the steady feed. Watch the edge stay true. That calm, repeatable feel is why featherboards earn a permanent spot in a small shop or a pro cabinet room. Simple tool, big payoff. Keep your stance balanced and your sightline clear always.