What Is a Multi Cooker and How Does It Combine Slow Cooking and Pressure Cooking? | One Pot, Two Methods

A multi cooker is one countertop appliance with separate Slow Cook and Pressure Cook programs, so a single pot can simmer a roast for hours or push a stew to fork-tender in under an hour.

Liquid goes in, the lid locks, you pick a program, and the same unit does the rest. That flexibility is why the category took over so many kitchens, and it is also where most confusion starts — people assume slow cooking is just pressure cooking turned down. It is not. They are two different machines sharing one housing, and knowing which one you are running changes everything from the lid position to how you open the thing at the end.

Instant Pot’s Multi-Cookers page describes the appliance simply: it can “pressure cook, slow cook, sauté, and more—all in one.” That single line is the whole idea. The dual-method design is what makes these units worth counter space.

What Actually Counts As A Multi Cooker?

A multi cooker is a countertop electric appliance that bundles several cooking modes — most often pressure cooking and slow cooking — into one pot with one control panel. The mode button you press decides which cooking method runs.

Instant Pot’s Multi-Cookers page lists one-touch programs that include Pressure Cook and Slow Cook alongside Sauté, Steam, Meat/Stew, Poultry, Beans/Chili, Rice, Multigrain, Soup/Broth, Cake, Yogurt, and Keep Warm.

Model families range widely: the Instant Pot lineup includes Aura, Aura Pro, Gem Multi-Cooker, 6QT and 8QT Multi-Cookers, Smart Bluetooth and Smart WiFi Multi-Cookers, Pro Plus Smart 6QT, Pro Max Smart 6QT, and Duo and Duo Plus variants. Same core promise, different sizes and smart features.

How Do Slow Cook And Pressure Cook Differ Inside One Pot?

Slow Cook holds a low, steady temperature for hours with no pressure build, while Pressure Cook seals the lid and raises internal pressure so food cooks much faster. The two programs share the pot, the heating element, and the controls — nothing else.

On Slow Cook, the lid typically sits loose or vented and heat works gently over a long stretch, the way a standalone slow cooker behaves. On Pressure Cook, the lid locks and the unit seals. The XL 7.1L Multi-Cooker manual states plainly that “this appliance cooks under pressure,” and after you press Start, the display shows the unit building pressure.

That pressure build is the key difference. The Duo manual explains that pressure-cooking time only begins counting down once working pressure is reached — so the timer you set is cook time, not total time from pressing start. Slow cooking needs no such wait.

Pressure cooking also requires liquid in the pot, per the manuals, and the steam release handle has to be set to Sealing. Slow cooking skips both requirements.

What Are The Exact Steps For Each Mode?

Both programs follow the same basic setup, then branch. The 5.7L Multi-Cooker manual lays out the general flow: place the inner pot in the base, add liquid and ingredients, lock the lid, choose a Smart Program, adjust the time if needed, and press Start. Keep Warm is ON by default and can be turned off before starting.

For pressure cooking, the sequence tightens up:

  1. Add liquid to the inner pot, then add ingredients.
  2. Close and lock the lid.
  3. Select Pressure Cook and adjust the time.
  4. Turn the steam release handle to Sealing.
  5. Press Start and let the unit reach working pressure.
  6. Release pressure fully before opening the lid.

Slow cooking follows the same general flow with Slow Cook selected instead, no sealing, and no pressure release at the end. One caveat worth flagging: if a recipe calls for browning first, run Sauté with the lid open, then switch programs. And if you want a tested lineup rather than a single model, our roundup of the best combination slow cooker pressure cooker picks covers sizes and features side by side.

Where Do People Go Wrong With These Machines?

Most problems trace back to treating the two modes as interchangeable. They are separate programs with separate rules, and the mistakes follow from that.

  • Skipping liquid before pressure cooking. The manuals require liquid in the pot; pressure cooking without it risks a burn or a no-build.
  • Opening the lid too early. The AU manual warns you “must release pressure after pressure cooking before attempting to open the lid,” and to wait until the float valve drops.
  • Leaving the steam release on Vent. Pressure cooking needs it on Sealing, or the unit never builds pressure.
  • Assuming slow cook means pressure cook on low. Instant Pot lists them as distinct programs with different mechanics.

Region matters for hardware, too. Manuals and cords are built for local power — the UK and EU documentation lists 220–240 V power and regional support contacts, so a unit bought abroad may not match your outlet.

Get those four habits right and the appliance does exactly what the box promises: two cooking methods, one pot, no second machine crowding the counter.

FAQs

Can I use the slow cook setting and then switch to pressure cooking?

Yes, on most models you can stop one program and start another, but you must reset the steam release handle to Sealing before any pressure program and add liquid if the pot has cooked down. Switching mid-recipe works best when you let the unit cool slightly first, since the control panel may lock out a new program while the pot is still hot.

Why is my unit not building pressure?

The steam release handle is almost always the culprit. It needs to be turned to Sealing before you press Start, and the lid must be locked. Not enough liquid in the pot is the second most common cause, since pressure cooking requires liquid to generate steam in the first place.

Do I need to release pressure manually every time?

Not every time. The AU manual requires pressure release before opening the lid, and waiting for the float valve to drop is the safe signal. Some recipes call for a quick release, others for a natural release as the pot cools on its own; either way, the lid stays shut until that valve drops.

References & Sources

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