Yes. A Sawzall is Milwaukee Tool’s trademark for a reciprocating saw — a handheld power saw that cuts with rapid back-and-forth strokes.
What A Sawzall Means In Plain Terms
Under the hood, the motor drives a crank that moves the blade in a straight line. Stroke length is the distance the blade travels each cycle, while strokes per minute sets how fast it moves. Many models add an orbital setting that traces a small ellipse to clear chips faster in wood. Pair that motion with the right blade and you get fast cuts in tight spots where a circular saw or miter saw won’t fit.
| Part | What It Does | Pro Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Motor | Powers the crank that drives the blade | Brushless designs run cooler and last longer |
| Variable Trigger | Lets you feather speed for control | Start slow to avoid chatter, then squeeze in |
| Speed Dial | Caps top speed | Set lower for metal, higher for wood |
| Orbital Switch | Adds elliptical motion for faster wood cuts | Turn off for metal and plastics |
| Stroke Length | Travel per cycle, often 1-1/8″ to 1-1/4″ | Longer strokes clear chips and cut faster |
| SPM Range | Blade cycles per minute | Typical range is 0–3,000 SPM |
| Pivoting Shoe | Braces the tool on the surface | Plant it firmly to reduce bounce |
| Blade Clamp | Holds the tang and enables quick swaps | Lock the trigger and remove battery first |
| Anti-Vibe | Counterbalance and isolators | Reduces fatigue on long cuts |
| Rafter Hook | Hangs the tool between cuts | Keep it out of dust and wet spots |
| Grip Style | Straight, D-handle, or one-hand compact | Pick what fits the space and task |
| Power Source | Corded or lithium battery | Corded for nonstop use, cordless for reach |
How A Recip Saw Works And Why It’s Handy
The shoe sits on the work and acts like a fulcrum. With the shoe planted, the blade can bite without skittering. The variable trigger gives you a slow start for accuracy, then full speed as the kerf forms. For plunge cuts, tip the nose and roll the blade in while keeping the shoe down. For flush cuts, bend a flexible blade so the teeth ride flat across the surface. It’s a simple motion, and that simplicity makes the tool a favorite for rough openings, nail-studded lumber, and fast pipe trimming.
Close Cousins And When To Use Each
People sometimes mix up a reciprocating saw with a jigsaw or a hacksaw. The jigsaw tracks straight lines and curves in sheet goods with a flat base and short strokes. The hacksaw is a manual frame for narrow metal cuts. A Sawzall handles thicker stock, awkward angles, and hidden fasteners. If the job is cramped, messy, or full of nails, this is the tool that gets the cut done.
Using A Sawzall For Demolition And Repair
On a remodel, it eats nails in plates, frees stuck windows, and trims copper or PVC. Electricians zip off conduit. Plumbers notch studs for drains. Tree crews prune limbs with coarse blades. Rescue crews reach for long blades to pierce auto panels. Pick a blade for the material, brace the shoe, let the teeth do the work. Pushing hard only adds chatter; steadiness wins.
Specs That Matter When You Buy
Stroke Length And Speed
Most pro-grade tools list 1-1/8″ or 1-1/4″ strokes with a top end near 3,000 SPM. Longer travel clears chips and speeds up cuts in framing lumber. Shorter strokes feel smoother on thin metals. If you switch materials often, a wide SPM range and a handy dial make life easier.
Orbital Action
Orbital settings shine in wood because the blade lifts slightly on the return stroke, which carries dust away from the teeth. That motion feels more aggressive and can raise vibration, so leave the switch off for metal, PVC, or plunge starts.
Weight, Balance, And Grip
A full-size saw can weigh north of eight pounds with a battery. Compact one-hand models squeeze into cabinets and overhead spaces with less strain. The best test is the feel in your hands: a steady nose, a shoe that plants, and a trigger you can modulate with gloves on.
Corded Vs Cordless
Corded saws deliver steady power for long demo days. Cordless models pair freedom of movement with high torque brushless motors and big packs. If you already own batteries from a platform you like, lean that way for convenience and cost savings.
Blade Basics: Teeth, Materials, And Length
Blades are the secret sauce. TPI, tooth shape, and steel decide speed and finish. Low TPI bites fast through wood and nails. Mid TPI balances clean cuts and pace. High TPI smooths metal edges. Bi-metal is the go-to choice. Carbide teeth shrug off nails, cast iron, and stainless. Carbide grit handles tile and brittle composites. Match blade length to the stock so at least three teeth are in the cut and the tip clears the far side.
Smart Picks For Common Cuts
- Framing lumber with nails: 5–8 TPI bi-metal or carbide teeth
- Clean wood and trim: 10–14 TPI fine-cut designs
- Thin steel and EMT: 18–24 TPI thin-kerf blades
- Thick pipe: 10–14 TPI heavy-duty metal blades
- Pruning green wood: 3–5 TPI deep-gullet designs
- Tile backer or fiberglass: carbide grit surfacing blades
Safety First With A Recip Saw
Wear eye protection, cut-rated gloves, and hearing protection. Keep two hands on the tool. Unplug or pull the battery before swapping blades. Plant the shoe and set your feet. Scan walls with a detector and open cavities to check for wires, gas lines, and plumbing. Do not cut above a live cord. Use sharp blades and replace bent ones. Follow the guard and switch instructions in your manual and the rules from regulators. You can review handheld saw practices in the
OSHA handheld saw eTool.
What You Can Cut With The Right Blade
With a good selection of blades in your pouch, one saw can handle studs, subfloor, roofing, sheathing, siding, nails, screws, fiberglass, PVC, ABS, copper, brass, steel, cast iron, rebar, and tree limbs. For metal, keep speed down and let lubricant carry chips. For wood, use orbital mode and lean on the shoe. For plastics, a medium TPI and gentle speed avoid melting.
Technique That Keeps Cuts Clean
Control The Start
Mark the line, brace the shoe, and start with a light trigger pull. A slow start keeps the blade from bouncing and wandering. Once a kerf forms, roll in more speed. For crosscuts in framing, pre-score with a pull stroke so the teeth land in line.
Use The Shoe
The shoe is your friend. Push it into the work to steady the blade and shift load into the tool body, not your arms. Angle the shoe to ride on fresh surface and pivot through the cut. For flush work against floors or siding, use a flexible blade and slide the shoe as a guide.
Let The Teeth Work
When the blade binds, your grip usually got ahead of the cut. Back out, clear debris, and reset your angle. On nail-eaten studs, skip the urge to twist; steady pressure and a low arc keep teeth alive longer.
Specs From The Source
Milwaukee popularized the SAWZALL name and publishes detailed specs on blades and tools. You can browse blade TPI ranges and materials on the
SAWZALL metal blade pages, and see full-size saws that list stroke length and speed on product listings. For brand history notes that mark the 1951 launch, see Milwaukee’s “Firsts” page
here.
Second Table: Blade Matchups That Save Time
| Blade Type | Best Use | Typical TPI |
|---|---|---|
| Wood demolition, nails OK | Framing, roof tear-offs, subfloor | 5–8 |
| Fine wood | Straighter cuts in studs and trim | 10–14 |
| Pruning | Green limbs and roots | 3–5 |
| Thin metal | EMT, sheet, duct | 18–24 |
| Thick metal | Pipe, angle, bar | 10–14 |
| Bi-metal multipurpose | Mixed demo with nails and screws | 6–12 |
| Carbide teeth heavy-duty | Cast iron, stainless, nail-eaten lumber | 7–10 |
| Carbide grit | Backer board, tile, composites | Abrasive |
Taking A Sawzall Into Remodel Work: Smart Setup
Carry a short stack of blades in a case: one fine metal, one heavy metal, one coarse wood, one pruning, and one multipurpose. Add a long carbide blade for stuck fasteners and cast iron. Throw in a magnet, a marker, a small bottle of cutting fluid, and a dust mask. Check the shoe screw for tightness before the day starts. Keep a spare battery warm in winter and shaded in summer. Sweep debris so the shoe can sit flat and your line stays visible.
Cordless Battery Tips That Pay Off
Pack health keeps cuts steady. Keep contacts clean, store packs near room temperature, and give a hot pack a few minutes to cool before fast charging. Rotate batteries through the day so one cools while the other runs. On deep cuts, pause the trigger for a beat to shed heat and clear chips. If the saw stalls, don’t feather the trigger in the kerf; back the blade out, re-set the shoe, and restart at a lower speed.
Jobsite Setup For Cleaner Cuts
Good lighting, solid footing, and proper backing turn a Sawzall from rough to tidy. Back both sides of the cut so the off-cut can’t pinch. When trimming pipe, use a strap wrench or blocks to stop rolling. For plunge starts, aim the tip, plant the shoe, and arc the handle as teeth break through. For stacked layers, score the top skin, then finish with a longer blade to keep teeth in fresh material.
Maintenance That Extends Tool Life
Blow dust out of vents, wipe the shoe, and clear the clamp after each session. Check the cord jacket or battery contacts. Lube the blade when cutting metals. Replace chewed blades early; a dull blade runs hot and loads the gearbox. Store the saw dry, with the trigger lock set, and the battery off the tool.
When Another Tool Fits Better
Use a circular saw for long, straight rips through sheet goods. Reach for a jigsaw when the cut needs a tight curve with a clean edge. Grab an oscillating multi-tool for plunge work near finished surfaces. A Sawzall shines when speed, access, and versatility beat fine finish.
What Is A Sawzall Called On Site?
You’ll hear recip saw, hognose, saber saw, or simply “saw.” The blade tang is universal, so brands share blades. The Milwaukee SAWZALL name remains the classic label, and many crews still use it as the shorthand. For specs, parts, and blade ranges direct from the maker, the main Milwaukee listings for SAWZALL tools and blades are a handy bookmark — and the core SAWZALL blade catalog is a solid reference for matching TPI to materials.
Quick Troubleshooting
Blade Burns Or Smokes
Speed is too high or the blade is dull. Slow the trigger, add oil for metals, or swap the blade.
Tool Vibrates Excessively
Check blade straightness and shoe contact. Use anti-vibe models for long sessions, and grip closer to the nose.
Cut Wanders Off Line
Use a fresher blade with more width, start slower, and keep the shoe planted. For straight cuts, run a guide against the shoe.
Wrap-Up: What Is A Sawzall, One Last Time
It’s the go-to name for a reciprocating saw. The tool moves a blade back and forth through a stout stroke, clearing material fast. With the right blade, you can cut wood, metal, plastics, and even tile backer. Get a model that fits your hand, keep blades fresh, and brace the shoe. That simple set of habits turns the saw into a reliable problem solver in tight spaces and tough materials.