Yes—Sheetrock is a USG brand of drywall; all Sheetrock is drywall, but not every drywall panel is Sheetrock.
Drywall is the trade name for gypsum board, a panel with a gypsum core and paper facings. Many brands make it. Sheetrock is the long-running line from USG, so every Sheetrock panel is drywall. Building standards such as ASTM C1396 define what qualifies.
Drywall Vs Sheetrock Differences In Practice
Heard the two terms used like twins on a job site? You’re not alone. Drywall is the generic wallboard made with a gypsum core and paper facings. Sheetrock is a trademark owned by USG for its line of gypsum panels. In short, the material family is drywall; Sheetrock is one brand within it.
Still, people use the words interchangeably, which leads to mixed orders, mismatched specs, and extra trips to the store. This guide clears up the naming, compares options you’ll see on the shelf, and helps you pick the right panel for each space without guesswork.
Common Drywall Panel Types
First, a quick map of the major panel types you’ll encounter. Each has the same gypsum backbone, then tweaks in the core or facings to suit specific rooms and risks.
| Panel Type | What It’s Built To Do | Typical Spots |
|---|---|---|
| Regular drywall | General interior walls and ceilings; smooth finish, ready for paint | Bedrooms, living areas, hallways |
| Lightweight drywall | Lower weight per sheet for easier lifts and fewer fatigue issues | Ceilings, solo installs, remodels |
| Type X (fire-rated) | Core additives raise fire resistance to meet rated assemblies | Garages, shared walls, code-driven areas |
| Moisture-resistant (green board) | Facing and core tuned to resist humidity, not direct water | Half-baths, humid zones outside direct splash |
| Mold-resistant | Facings and additives deter mold growth when damp conditions occur | Basements, laundry rooms, kitchens |
| Cement board (not gypsum) | Cementitious core that tolerates direct water exposure | Showers, tub surrounds, tile backers |
| Glass-mat gypsum | Fiberglass mats replace paper to handle weather during build | Exterior sheathing, wet-prone interiors |
| Sound-damping panels | Layered cores reduce sound transmission between rooms | Bedrooms, media rooms, offices |
Is Sheetrock Just Drywall? Naming, Brands, And Codes
Think of Sheetrock like Kleenex or ChapStick—so common that the brand became a household word. Every Sheetrock panel is drywall, yet many drywall panels carry other badges from rivals such as National Gypsum, CertainTeed, or Georgia-Pacific.
On spec sheets, the distinction shows up in product codes and approvals. A plan might call for “1/2-in gypsum board, ASTM C1396”; that’s the generic. If it says “USG Sheetrock® EcoSmart 1/2-in,” that’s brand-specific. Either route can meet code when the panel type, thickness, and rating match the assembly you’re building.
Material And Composition Basics
What’s inside the board rarely changes: a noncombustible gypsum core sandwiched by facings, usually paper. That recipe is the reason drywall hangs fast and finishes smooth. The industry calls this “gypsum board,” the formal name used by manufacturers and trade groups.
Standards keep everyone honest. In North America, gypsum board must conform to ASTM C1396 for things like thickness, flexural strength, and water absorption. Installers then follow application standards such as GA-216 to hang and finish panels so joints, corners, and fasteners look clean and last.
When To Specify Sheetrock By Name
There are times when naming the brand makes life easier. Large projects often stick with one manufacturer to simplify submittals, warranties, and deliveries. If the architect already has UL designs or fire-rated assemblies tested with a specific product line, matching that line avoids re-approval work.
Brand lines also pack extras. USG, for instance, markets lightweight Sheetrock panels that reduce handling weight without changing thickness. Some pro crews like consistent scoring and snapping from one source, especially when they’re training new hands or racing a schedule.
When Standard Drywall Fits The Bill
For many rooms, the generic spec is perfect. If you’re finishing spare bedrooms, a simple 1/2-in regular gypsum board works well and keeps the cart light. In detached workshops with no rated walls, 5/8-in regular or lightweight panels stiffen ceilings and feel sturdy under paint without jumping to higher-priced labels.
Where code spells out performance—say, a 1-hour wall between a garage and living space—look up a tested assembly and match the type and thickness. You can meet that target with multiple brands as long as the assembly requirements line up, which gives you price and availability wiggle room.
Choosing The Right Panel For Each Room
Rooms load panels in different ways. Bathrooms cycle through steam; kitchens see splashes; basements can stay damp for weeks after rain. Rather than asking “Sheetrock or drywall,” match each area to the panel type that suits the risk and finish you want.
Room-By-Room Panel Picker
Use this quick chooser while planning a materials run. Pick the panel by the room, then confirm thickness and any fire or sound ratings in your local code and plan set.
| Room | Recommended Panel | Pro Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Standard bedroom or hallway | 1/2-in regular or lightweight gypsum board | Look for straight studs; shim or plane before hanging |
| Garage wall to house | Type X gypsum board per rated assembly | Seal joints at door frames; use steel protection where cars park close |
| Full bath or shower | Cement board or approved tile backer | Add a membrane behind or on top per the tile system |
| Laundry or damp basement | Mold-resistant gypsum or glass-mat gypsum | Improve ventilation; keep panels off slab with a small gap |
| Kitchen splash zones | Moisture-resistant gypsum behind non-tile areas | Use tile backer where tile and direct water are planned |
| Home theater or office | Sound-damping gypsum panels | Pair with resilient channel or sound-rated assemblies |
Installation, Finish Levels, And Quality Checks
Hanging technique matters more than the logo on the paper. Keep butt joints staggered, run boards horizontally on walls when possible, and pull screws just below the surface without breaking paper. On ceilings, check framing spacing; 1/2-in panels like 16-in on center, while 5/8-in panels span 24-in on center without sag in most rooms.
Finish levels set surface expectations. Level 4 is the go-to for paint with light texture or matte finishes. Level 5 adds a skim coat across the entire surface for ultra-smooth walls under glossier paints or strong lighting. If you’ll hide walls with heavy texture or commercial-grade wallcovering, Level 3 can save time.
Lighting makes or breaks a finish. Rakes of sunlight and long LED strips highlight even tiny ridges. If that’s your room, bump up to a higher finish level or plan for wider feathering. Prime with a drywall primer, not just standard paint, so joints and field absorb coatings at the same rate.
Cost, Availability, And Green Claims
Brand pricing moves with region, supplier, and sheet size. Many stores price regular drywall a bit lower than brand-named lines with extra features. If you’re ordering a stack, compare costs per square foot, not only per sheet, and include any delivery fees. Sometimes the lighter panel that lets two people hang ceilings without a third set of hands is the real saver.
Several makers promote recycled content and energy savings in their plants. Some panels use recaptured gypsum from power-plant scrubbers; others tout lighter formulas that trim fuel use in transport. If sustainability is part of your spec, ask your yard for product data sheets and third-party declarations so you’re not guessing from a brochure.
Quick Buying Checklist
Measure twice and group by room so you can match types. Bedrooms? 1/2-in regular. Garage common walls? Type X. Showers? Cement board. Write the counts per room and add 10% for offcuts and mistakes.
Confirm code items: fire ratings, thickness, vapor barriers, and any sound targets on shared walls. For basements or laundry rooms, plan ventilation upgrades alongside panel choices.
Round out the cart: joint tape, all-purpose and topping compound, corner bead, screws for wood or steel framing, drywall primer, and a sanding setup that controls dust. A good pole sander with vacuum saves cleanup and lungs.
Care, Repairs, And Common Mistakes
Small dents fill easily with topping compound after a light scrape and wipe. For larger holes, bridge with a patch or cut back to studs and insert a backer. Keep screws snug but not crushing paper when you rehang a patch—crushed paper leads to soft edges and future pops.
Avoid common slip-ups: using moisture-resistant board inside a shower, skipping a primer, or pushing paint over damp compound. Give mud time to dry, keep rooms ventilated, and aim work lights across the surface to spot ridges before paint makes them permanent.