What Is The Difference Between Wood Filler And Wood Putty? | Pro Shop Tips

Wood Filler Vs Wood Putty — Real-World Differences

What Each One Is

Wood Filler Basics

Wood filler is a paste made from wood flour or cellulose blended with a binder. Water-based versions clean up with water and dry fast. Solvent versions set a bit harder and resist moisture better. Two-part fillers use a resin and hardener; once cured they behave like hardwood and take machining without crumbling.

Wood Putty Basics

Wood putty is a pliable compound used after the finish goes on. It often uses oil-based or latex binders and stays a little elastic. That flexibility lets a tiny plug ride seasonal movement without cracking the surrounding finish. Putty usually comes pre-tinted to match common stain colors.

Here’s a quick side-by-side so you can pick the right jar on the first try.

Feature	Wood Filler	Wood Putty
Base Makeup	Wood fibers + binder	Oil/latex binders; no fibers
Apply Stage	Before stain or paint	After stain/clear or cured paint
Sanding	Yes, sands flat	No, wiping only
Staining	Takes stain; not perfect match	Does not take stain
Painting	Primes and paints clean	Use only on sealed paint
Flex/Motion	Rigid once cured	Stays slightly flexible
Best Uses	Bare trim, dents, seams	Nail holes, tiny gaps post-finish
Depth Handling	Build in layers; two-part for deep voids	Shallow only; cosmetic
Interior/Exterior	Interior; two-part suits exterior with paint	Tiny exterior touch-ups
Cleanup	Water or mineral spirits	Mineral spirits or soap, product-dependent
Shrink/Crack Risk	Low with proper cure	Low; stays put as a plug
Odor/VOC	Low for water-based	Higher for oil putty

When To Use Wood Filler

Use filler on bare wood before stain or paint. It shines on nail holes in new trim, dents from shipping, routed edges with small tear-out, and seams you want to blend before primer. Because it hardens, you can sand it flat, shape edges, and even plane it lightly once cured. Water-based filler is the go-to for interior work where speed matters. Solvent filler suits tougher spots that see the odd splash or heavy wear.

Two-part filler earns its keep on deep gouges, corners, and exterior components that still get a painted finish. Mix small batches, press it in firmly, then carve or sand back once it sets. It bonds tight, doesn’t slump, and holds screws better than soft end grain. On siding, door frames, or window sills, it survives weather far better than a lightweight paste.

Stain behavior matters. Most fillers will darken when you stain, but rarely a perfect match. Tintable options help; you can also pre-stain the patch slightly lighter, then wipe a second coat across the whole board to blend. Under paint, color isn’t a concern, so choose the product that sands clean and doesn’t shrink.

Limits Of Filler

Filler is rigid. On a tabletop that moves across the seasons, a long crack filled and sanded flush can telegraph a hairline at the next humidity swing. Outdoors, basic one-part pastes chalk and chip. If you need movement tolerance or long UV exposure, step up to a two-part system and paint it, or switch to putty for tiny eye-catchers after finishing.

When To Use Wood Putty

Putty is for finished wood. Think tiny nail holes in stained casing, brad marks on a crown moulding after clear-coat, or a pin-sized gap where two miters meet. Because putty stays flexible, the patch rides micro-movement without popping or cracking the surrounding varnish.

Color matching is the whole game. Buy two or three close shades and blend a dab between your fingers to hit the tone on site. Press the mix in with a putty knife or your thumb, then wipe the excess with a soft cloth. Leave it as is; sanding can smear color across adjacent grain.

Outdoors, a non-hardening putty can fill tiny finish-level pits on painted trim where caulk would look messy. It resists minor movement and keeps water out until the next repaint. Big voids still call for epoxy or two-part filler under primer.

Limits Of Putty

Putty does not sand or take stain. Use it only after stain and topcoat are down, or under paint when the area is already sealed. On raw wood the oils can block stain and leave halos. If the defect needs leveling, switch to filler, level it, then finish, and touch tiny spots with putty at the end.

Difference Between Wood Filler And Wood Putty: Project Picks

Still unsure at the store? Match the surface condition first. Raw wood that needs sanding and stain calls for filler. Finished wood with pinholes calls for putty. Depth is the next filter: shallow marks suit one-part filler; deep voids like door corners or rot patches need a two-part system.

How To Apply Each Product

Steps For Wood Filler

1) Prep the area: remove loose fibers and dust. Degloss paint in the patch zone. 2) Press filler in slightly proud of the surface. For deep holes, build in layers. 3) Let it dry fully; rushing traps solvent and leads to pinholes. 4) Sand with a flat block through 150-220 grit. 5) Wipe clean, then stain or prime and paint.

Steps For Wood Putty

1) Finish first: stain and clear-coat, or paint and cure. 2) Knead a pea-sized dab to warm it. Blend colors if needed. 3) Press into the hole; wipe across the grain with a clean cloth. 4) Tilt the light and check from two angles. Add a touch more if the spot still flashes. 5) Leave it to set; no sanding.

Pro Tips For Invisible Repairs

Feather your sanding beyond the patch. On stain-grade work, stop at 180-220; finer grits can seal pores and make nearby wood take less color. On paint-grade, a coat of primer over the patch and area calms texture changes.

For floors, choose a filler rated for heavy wear or a two-part system under a durable finish. On exterior trim, pair a wood hardener with epoxy where rot started; the hardener stabilizes fibers so the patch bonds well. On cabinets, check with the hinge maker before filling out stripped screw holes; a longer screw may be the cleaner fix. Test on a scrap from the same batch so color and sheen match. Photograph the area after for records. Always.

Common Mistakes And How To Avoid Them

Using putty on bare wood: oils block stain and leave shiny halos. Skipping dry time: filler shrinks later and telegraphs a dip. Sanding putty: it smears color and scuffs the finish. Color mismatch: keep a small set of tints in the toolbox so trim touch-ups never shout from across the room.

Filling long cracks on big panels with a stiff paste: seasonal movement opens the seam. Use a spline, glue the joint, or switch to a flexible approach at the finish stage. Packing deep voids with a light one-part filler: it may crumble. Step up to a two-part system and shape it after cure.

Repair Scenario	Pick	Why
Nail holes in stained casing	Putty	Color match after finish.
Brad marks on painted crown	Putty	Blend tiny specks without sanding.
New baseboard before painting	Filler	Sand flush, then prime.
Deep gouge on door edge	Two-part filler	Shape after cure; paint.
Deck handrail hairline checks	Two-part filler	Tough, then paint.
Wide rot spot on sill	Epoxy system	Harden, fill, then paint.
Grain pores in oak before dye	Filler	Level pores for slick finish.
Stripped screw hole in hinge stile	Two-part filler	Re-drill for solid bite.
Tiny miter gap on stained trim	Putty	Finger-blend color and wipe.
Floorboard dent	Filler	Level, sand, refinish.

Product Types And Where They Fit

Water-based filler: fast dry, easy sanding, low odor, great for interior trim, furniture, and paint-grade work. Solvent filler: tougher skin and better edge hold, handy for railings or windows that see the odd splash. Two-part filler: strongest option for shaping corners, rebuilding edges, or anchoring hardware in patched wood.

Oil-based putty sticks: classic choice for stained trim; blend colors on site. Latex putties: low odor and easy cleanup for painted trim once the paint has cured. Color-match kits: small tubs in stain-family shades that you can mix like artists’ paint to nail the tone.

Safety And Cleanup

Ventilate when using solvent products or two-part systems. Nitrile gloves keep skin clean while you knead and press small dabs. Collect sanding dust with a vacuum and a tight hose right at the work. Water-based products clean with water; solvent products wipe up with mineral spirits; epoxy tools need acetone before cure.

Trusted References For Further Reading

For a clear explainer on which product goes where, the This Old House guide has a helpful guide online. For product specifics and color-matched options, check the Minwax Wood Putty page to see how tinted putty is intended for post-finish touch-ups.

Quick Recap

Filler hardens, sands, and accepts finish when it goes on raw wood. Putty stays flexible, hides specks on finished surfaces, and depends on color match. Choose by surface state and depth, then pick the formula that suits wear and weather. With the right pick, the repair disappears and stays quiet through the seasons.

If a repair will be stained later, reach for a sandable filler and blend the tone with test swatches. If the surface is already stained or painted, plug tiny marks with color-matched putty and wipe clean. Match product to surface state and depth, and your patch will disappear. Work in good light from several angles.