Wet latex: dish soap and water. Dried acrylic: isopropyl alcohol or acetone. Oil-based: mineral spirits. Blot, rinse, then launder cool.
Paint lands on shirts, jeans, and aprons when a project runs long or a brush flicks at the wrong time. The fix depends on paint chemistry and fabric care. Act fast when it is wet, stay patient when it is dry, and always test on a seam.
Know your paint and fabric
Match remover to paint. Water-based paints soften with water, soap, and alcohols. Oil-based paints need petroleum solvents. Spray paints often lift with acetone or rubbing alcohol. Delicate fibers call for a gentle touch and short contact times.
Check the garment label. If it says “dry clean only,” skip home solvents and call a cleaner. For cotton, denim, and poly blends, spot work at a sink usually works. Keep heat away until the mark is gone.
| Type | Best remover | First steps |
|---|---|---|
| Fresh latex / acrylic | Cold water + dish soap | Blot from the back, rinse, repeat |
| Dried latex / acrylic | Isopropyl alcohol (70–99%) or acetone | Wet the spot, wait 2–5 min, scrape, re-wet |
| Oil-based / alkyd / enamel | Mineral spirits or turpentine | Dab, lift with a dull knife, change pads often |
| Spray paint | Acetone or rubbing alcohol | Work from the edge inward to limit spread |
| Chalk / milk paint | Warm water + soap, then alcohol if needed | Soak 10–15 min, then rub gently |
| Primer (oil) | Mineral spirits | Short dabs only; test colorfastness |
| Primer (latex) | Isopropyl alcohol | Re-wet until the film loosens |
| Fabric paint | Follow maker’s care notes | If heat-set, removal may be limited |
| House trim paint (semi-gloss) | Match latex vs oil base | Check can or site listing for base |
| Artist acrylic | Isopropyl alcohol | Lay stain face down on pads and flush through |
Use the stain charts from the American Cleaning Institute when you need a quick chooser for latex vs oil bases.
Removing paint from clothes: what works fast
Triage the stain before it sets. Scrape blobs with a spoon or card. Blot, do not rub. Rinse from the back so paint runs out of the fibers, not deeper into them. Switch to fresh white towels as they load up.
Wet latex or acrylic
Hold the stain under a gentle stream of cool water. Add a drop of dish soap and pinch the fabric to work suds through the spot. Keep rinsing and soaping until no color moves. Finish with a wash on cool using a heavy-duty detergent.
Dried latex or acrylic
Alcohol breaks that plastic film. Place the fabric stain-side down on paper towels. Feed isopropyl alcohol through the back of the spot and wait a few minutes. Lift softened paint with a blunt knife or old card. Repeat wet-wait-lift cycles, then wash. If the fabric tolerates it, acetone speeds the lift on stubborn flecks.
Oil-based, alkyd, or enamel paint
Vent a workspace and keep flames away. Dampen a cotton pad with mineral spirits. Dab, replace the pad, and keep blotting until transfer slows. Wash on warm with a strong detergent. If color moves from the garment itself, stop and switch to a cleaner.
Spray paint overspray
Mist the spot with acetone or rubbing alcohol on a pad. Work inward in small circles. Rinse between passes. Overspray often needs several short rounds instead of one long soak.
Identify your paint in seconds
A quick check pays off. Latex and acrylic clean up with water and alcohols. Oil bases need mineral spirits. Spray paints often soften with acetone. Match first, then treat.
Label clues
If you still have the can, scan the cleanup line. Phrases like “soap and water” point to latex. Notes like “clean with mineral spirits” mark an oil base. Primer and enamel also list the base in that small type near the barcode.
Home tests when the can is gone
Touch a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol to a hidden dot of the stain. If color transfers fast, latex or acrylic is likely. If nothing moves, switch to mineral spirits on a new swab. A drop of water that beads on the dried film also hints at an oil base.
What to do when unsure
Start gentle. Soap and water never hurt cotton or denim. If the spot resists, step up to alcohol, then move to mineral spirits only after a seam test. Stop if the fabric darkens or softens in a strange way.
Fabric cheatsheet
Cotton and denim
These handle soaking and firm scraping. Lay the area flat, flood with alcohol for latex or acrylic, or dab mineral spirits for oil spots. A stiff toothbrush helps, but brush with light strokes.
Polyester and nylon
Synthetics shed water fast but can dull with hot acetone. Use rubbing alcohol first for dried latex or acrylic. Keep contact short and rinse often. For oil paint, spot with mineral spirits for seconds, then wash right away.
Wool and silk
Both react to strong solvents and high pH. If oil paint is involved, a cleaner is safer. If latex lands, treat with cool water and a dab of mild soap only. Blot, then stop. Place a note on the item and take it in.
Linen and rayon
These fibers swell when wet and can grow during long soaks. Use brief passes. For latex or acrylic, alcohol on a cotton pad works well. For oil paint, short dabs of mineral spirits only, then wash in a mesh bag.
Spandex and activewear
Stretch fibers dislike acetone. Stick with dish soap, cool water, and short alcohol passes for latex or acrylic. If the paint is oil-based, a pro shop visit is safer than a risky home try.
How to get paint out of clothes safely
Test first. Dot a hidden seam with the remover and wait five minutes. Look for color loss, pilling, or texture change. If all looks fine, move to the stain.
Work with airflow. Open a window or run a fan when using alcohols, acetone, turpentine, or mineral spirits. Keep sparks and smoke away. Store rags in a metal can with a tight lid until trash day or a drop-off.
Never mix bleach with ammonia or acids. Rinse items well before switching products. Wear gloves if your skin feels dry or tight during solvent work.
When using alcohols or acetone, read the NIOSH page for isopropyl alcohol so you keep fumes and flame risk in check.
Troubleshooting real stains
Halo rings after solvent
That faint ring is residue. Lay the fabric stain-side down and pour a thin stream of warm water through the spot. Add a drop of dish soap and press with a clean towel. Rinse and repeat until the ring fades, then wash.
The stain keeps spreading
You may be using too much liquid at once. Switch to small pads and work from the edge to the center. Replace pads often so loosened paint has somewhere to go.
Strong odor after washing
A light solvent smell can linger. Run a second wash with a long rinse. Add an extra spin. Hang the garment outside to air out. Do not store until the scent is gone.
Color loss on the garment
Stop and reassess. If dye moves on the test spot, home removal carries risk. Photograph the tag and the stain and call a cleaner for advice before trying again.
Solvent cheat sheet for clothes
| Solvent | Use for | Safety cues |
|---|---|---|
| Isopropyl alcohol | Dried latex and artist acrylic | Flammable; keep air moving; keep away from flames |
| Acetone | Acrylics, nail polish, some spray paint | Test synthetics; melts some plastics |
| Mineral spirits | Oil-based paint and primers | Flammable; short dabs; no food-grade use |
| Turpentine | Oil brushes and old oil spots | Strong odor; test dyes first |
| Enzyme detergent | Latex residue and grime mix | Use in the wash cycle |
Rags loaded with mineral spirits or turpentine belong at a local drop-off; see the EPA guidance on household hazardous waste for disposal routes in your area.
Deep clean methods by paint type
Latex and acrylic: step-by-step
1) Soften: Rinse from the back with cool water. 2) Suds: Massage a drop of dish soap into the fibers. 3) Lift: Scrape film with a dull knife. 4) Boost: Flood with isopropyl alcohol and wait. 5) Repeat: Alternate scraping and flooding until transfer stops. 6) Wash: Run a cool cycle and air-dry. Heat sets stains, so skip the dryer until the mark is gone.
Oil-based and enamel: step-by-step
1) Pad the back with paper towels. 2) Wet a cotton ball with mineral spirits and dab the spot. 3) Replace pads as they load up. 4) Switch to a fresh area and keep dabbing. 5) Hand wash with a strong detergent to clear the solvent. 6) Air-dry and check. A faint ring often fades with a second wash.
Spray paint: step-by-step
1) Tape around the stain to limit spread. 2) Touch with acetone on a cotton swab to test. 3) If safe, wet a pad and press, lift, and rotate. 4) Rinse and repeat short rounds. 5) Finish with a cool wash. If the hue lingers, try rubbing alcohol for a final pass.
Delicate fabrics, denim, and heavy cotton
Silk, wool, rayon, and acetate can deform with harsh solvents. If paint is oil-based, send these to a cleaner. Denim and canvas can take more friction and longer alcohol soaks. Work in short sets to spare seams and prints. Turn garments inside out for tough passes so the face stays smooth.
Aftercare: washing, drying, and when to stop
Air-dry between attempts so you can judge progress. Heat can lock a faint ghost into place, so skip the dryer until the area looks clear. If dye starts to bleed, back off. A pro cleaner can spot-treat with shop tools that are safer on tricky fibers.
Smart prevention and quick triage
Lay a drop cloth, suit up in workwear, and keep a small kit by the sink: dish soap, cotton pads, a spoon, isopropyl alcohol, acetone, mineral spirits, a blunt scraper, and white towels. When paint hits fabric, scrape, flush from the back, and match the remover to the base. Ten calm minutes now can save a favorite shirt. Keep notes on what worked.
Build a stain kit at home
What to keep in the bin
• Small bottle of isopropyl alcohol (70% or 91%)
• Small bottle of pure acetone nail polish remover
• Odorless mineral spirits in the original can
• Mild dish soap
• Heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent
• Cotton swabs and cotton pads
• Old gift cards or plastic scrapers
• Painter’s tape and a roll of paper towels
• Nitrile gloves and a zip-top bag for used pads
Simple working mixes
A squeeze bottle with water and a drop of dish soap speeds sink work on latex. For grimy workwear, a spoon of enzyme detergent in warm water makes a good presoak. Label bottles clearly and store out of reach of kids and pets. Keep solvents in their factory containers; small decant bottles can leak and raise fire risk.
Old, set stains
Set marks take time. Start with long alcohol passes on latex or acrylic to break the film. For oil paint, short sessions with mineral spirits work better than a bath. After the lift, wash on warm with a scoop of oxygen bleach if the fabric allows it. Air-dry, then repeat the cycle. Some heat-set fabric paints will not move; in that case, patch with a badge or save the cloth for shop rags.
What not to do
• Skip hot water on fresh latex. Warmth can set it.
• Do not soak flammable solvents; use short dabs only.
• No smoking or open flame during solvent work.
• Never mix bleach with ammonia or acids.
• Keep kids and pets away from your work area.
• Do not dry the item until the mark is gone.