What Sandpaper Should I Use On Drywall? | Smooth, Safe, Fast

Picking the right grit makes the difference between a flat wall and a scratched, wavy surface. The sweet spot isn’t one number; it’s a short grit ladder that moves from shaping to polishing. Start modest, move finer, and keep the paper clean. Below you’ll find the exact grits, when to use them, the tools that keep dust in check, and a simple process that works on new installs and quick patches.

Drywall Tasks And The Right Grit

Best Sandpaper Grit For Drywall Joints (And Why It Works)

Most joints behave the same: you need just enough bite to flatten the high spots without scarring paper. That’s why 120–150 is the workhorse range. It erases trowel chatter and feathers mud smoothly. Once the seam lies flat, jump to 180–220 for a quick polish that hides scratches under primer. If you see fuzzy paper, you went too coarse or pressed too hard; stop and seal with a drywall primer before the next pass.

Compound hardness matters. Lightweight muds sand easier, so 150 can feel spicy on a fresh coat. Dense all-purpose muds may like 120 for the first pass. The rule stays the same: begin in the low hundreds, test in a small span, and move finer as soon as the surface turns flat.

Paper quality matters as well. Look for aluminum-oxide sheets on a firm backing for hand blocks and pole sanders. Keep a soft touch near butt joints and inside angles. Work in long, overlapping strokes, and lift near the ends to avoid flat spots.

Two quick references back up this grit ladder. USG’s own guidance calls for about 150-grit paper or 220-grit mesh on many compounds, and the Gypsum Association’s GA-214 defines finish levels so you know how smooth the surface should be before paint or texture. You can review their handy GA-214 quick reference to match the finish level to your room and lighting.

Choosing Sandpaper For Drywall Repairs: Grit, Tools, Technique

Paper, Mesh, Or Sponge?

Paper leaves a slightly finer face at any given grit and resists cutting the paper skin when you’re careful. It clogs faster, so knock the dust out often and change sheets the moment they glaze.

Mesh runs cooler and pairs well with vacuum sanders. The open weave sheds dust and keeps the grit cutting. On soft mud, a heavy hand can print the weave, so use light pressure on the final pass or swap to paper for the last few strokes.

Sanding sponges shine on inside corners and small patches. Pick medium-fine faces marked 120–180, rinse between passes, and squeeze dry. For near-zero dust, a damp sponge can knock down edges and smooth thin coats, though it’s slower than dry sanding.

Hand Sander Vs. Pole Sander

Use a hand block for tight areas and a pole sander for flats and ceilings. The pole keeps the pad flat, spreads pressure, and saves your shoulders. When paired with mesh and a hose, it keeps a room far cleaner than hand sanding alone. Choose a head with a pivot that glides without digging.

Lighting And Surface Checks

Pull a raking light across the wall. Shadows show humps, troughs, and pinholes that your eyes miss straight on. Mark flaws with a pencil, fix those first, and only then sand the broader field. Fast checks beat long re-sands.

Dust Control And Personal Safety

Drywall dust hangs in the air and settles everywhere. Wear a well-fitting N95 or better and keep the room ventilated. NIOSH has long documented heavy exposures during drywall sanding; their guidance on controls and respirators is a solid read. See the NIOSH drywall sanding dust page for practical controls and limits.

Bag and seal waste, cap return air grilles, and close doors to clean areas. A vacuum sander with mesh and a HEPA vac keeps fine dust out of the air. If you work over another person, use a pole instead of a step stool so dust falls away from co-workers.

Step-By-Step: Sanding A Fresh Drywall Job

1) Prep The Room

Pull plates, cover outlets, and tape plastic along the floor. Set a fan to blow out a window where safe. Stage sheets by grit so you’re not hunting mid-job. Keep a pencil, taping knife, sponge, and pole sander handy.

2) Knock Down High Lines

With 120 on a hand block, shave knife lines, blobs, and hard edges. Keep the block flat. You’re leveling defects so the next passes go faster.

3) First Pass On Joints

Load a pole sander with 120–150. Work lengthwise on flats and in wide arcs on butts. Stop often and clean the sheet. If the paper face shows, stop and seal with primer before more sanding.

4) Feather And Fill

Switch to 150–180. Feather past the seam and blend into the field. Touch pinholes with a thin wipe of mud, let it dry, and spot sand.

5) Final Polish

Use 180–220 with light pressure. You’re chasing faint lines and scratch haze. A quick wipe with a barely damp microfiber helps you see what still needs a touch.

6) Prime And Recheck

Primer reveals what bare mud hides. After the first coat, circle tiny shadows with a pencil, spot sand with 220, and clean the dust. One more skim in stubborn spots beats over-sanding.

7) Clean Up

Vacuum from the ceiling down. Wipe trim and corners. Dust on a wall kills paint adhesion, so finish with a tack cloth or a clean, damp wipe and let it dry fully.

Abrasive Types For Drywall

Pro Tips That Save Time And Paint

• Let mud dry hard. Rushing creates pills that clog paper fast.
• Keep a light touch near screw heads to avoid breaking paper.
• Feather wide. Narrow strokes leave visible bands under sheen paint.
• Wrap a strip of 180 around a 6-inch knife for tight spots.
• Change sheets early. A fresh 150 beats an exhausted 120 every time.
• Mute static with a mist at the very end, not during sanding.

Common Mistakes And Fixes

Grit Jumps That Leave Scratches

Going from 120 straight to paint leaves swirl marks under light. Add a short stop at 180. It takes minutes and saves a repaint.

Mesh Printing On Soft Mud

If the weave shows, you’re pushing too hard or the mud hasn’t cured. Back off, switch to paper for the last pass, and let the room breathe longer between coats.

Burned Paper Face

Yellowed paper means heat and pressure. Seal with a drywall primer, let it dry, and sand the primer lightly with 220 before moving on.

Over-Sanded Inside Corners

Use a sponge and short strokes. If tape shows, re-coat the angle, let it dry, and sand lightly with a fresh sponge.

Dust Everywhere After You’re Done

Next time, switch to mesh on a pole with a vac, keep doors closed, and finish with a damp wipe. Small setup changes produce a cleaner room and a faster paint day.

Edge Work, Angles, And Butt Joints

Edges and corners ask for patience. On outside corners, run strokes parallel to the bead, not across it. On inside corners, pinch a sponge into a V and work each side separately so you don’t round the apex. Butt joints are short and thick; feather extra wide and use longer strokes so your pressure spreads across the field. If a butt joint keeps showing, float a wider skim, let it dry, and return with 180 for the blend.

Grit Choices For Different Compounds

Ready-mixed all-purpose mud packs more binder, so it sands slower. Start at 120 and expect a few extra strokes. Lightweight all-purpose or topping sands faster, so begin at 150 and switch to 180 sooner. Hot muds set by chemistry and can feel tough; break ridges with 120 and switch to 150 once flat. If you’re unsure, test a one-foot span with 150 and adjust up or down based on how the sheet loads and how fast the line fades.

Primer Plays Referee

Primer evens porosity and exposes shadows. A white shell makes faint scratches pop so you can fix them now, not after color. Use a quality drywall primer, roll it evenly, and let it dry to full hide. Then hold a sidelight across the wall and circle tiny flaws with a pencil. A quick kiss with 220 and a wipe leaves a surface that lays down paint with no surprises.

Tool Care And Sheet Management

Fresh sheets cut fast and clean. Flip a mesh screen when it slows, and replace paper as soon as you feel glazing. Keep a brush or rag on your belt to clear dust from the pad. Check the pole head screws and the swivel so the pad stays flat. A warped block digs corners; if yours rocks on a flat table, replace it. Little checks keep your strokes smooth and your walls flatter.

Working With Tough Lighting

Low, raking light near windows, glossy paint, and sharp downlights expose flaws. In those zones, extend your feathering distance and add a final pass with 220. Sand with the light, not across it, and check from more than one angle. If a seam still shows in a bright wash, add a thin, wide skim and repeat the short 180-then-220 cycle. It’s quicker than chasing a visible band after paint.

When To Switch From Mesh To Paper

Mesh with a vacuum is the clean choice for big flats and ceilings, especially during early passes. Once you reach the last few strokes, switch to paper in any spot where the weave could print, such as over soft topping mud or near a thin feather edge. Paper has a fuller contact patch, so it leaves a more uniform scratch that hides under primer.

Small Patch Workflow

For nail pops and dings, fill once, scrape flush, and sand with 150. For larger patches, run two thin coats, then sand with 150-180. Glide a sponge through corners and along trim lines to avoid scuffs on woodwork. Wipe the area, prime the patch and a small halo around it, then check with a sidelight. If the patch telegraphs through, a light skim and a quick 220 pass solves it.

Final Pass: From Dry To Paint-Ready

Pick 120–150 to shape, shift to 180–220 to refine, and match the abrasive to your tool and task. Keep the pad flat, use light strokes, and let primer do some of the revealing for you. Follow the grit ladder and you’ll step into paint day with flat seams, clean lines, and no drama. For grit specifics straight from a manufacturer, check USG’s note on 150-grit paper or 220-grit mesh, and for safety basics on dust, review the NIOSH drywall sanding guidance.