Yes—you can fix many no-drain problems yourself: unplug the washer, straighten the drain hose, and clean the pump filter or coin trap before trying a drain/spin.
Washer Not Draining: Step-By-Step Fix
A stopped tub isn’t fun, but most no-drain issues trace back to a kinked hose, a clogged filter, or a sudsy, unbalanced load. Work through the steps below from safest and simplest to deeper checks. Keep towels, shallow pan, and a bucket within reach.
1) Cut Power And Make Space
- Press Pause/Cancel, then unplug. Water and live parts don’t mix. If the outlet is hard to reach, switch the breaker off.
- Turn water taps off if you’ll move the unit.
- Slide the washer forward to access the drain hose and rear panel without straining the lines.
2) Drain Standing Water Safely
Front-load models usually include an “emergency” hose next to the pump filter behind the lower access door. Pull the hose into a pan, remove the cap, and let the tub empty before opening the filter. That simple step keeps water off your floor and out of the machine’s base. Many brands document this design; see the LG guide on cleaning the drain pump filter.
3) Check The Drain Hose
Follow the hose from the washer to the standpipe or sink. Look for sharp bends, crushed spots, or a hose shoved too far down the pipe. Straighten kinks, reseat loose clamps, and bring the hose tip to the correct height to prevent siphoning. Brand support pages outline hose setup and height ranges; Whirlpool’s not draining or spinning support page shows the layout many homes use.
The Big Causes At A Glance
| What You See | Likely Cause | What To Try First |
|---|---|---|
| Water sits in tub | Kinked hose, clogged pump filter, stuck door lock | Straighten hose; drain via emergency hose; clean filter; retry Drain & Spin |
| Drains, then fills again | Hose inserted too deep; siphoning | Raise hose to correct height; secure with a U-clip |
| Slow trickle from hose | Lint or coins in pump; partial blockage in standpipe | Open filter; check pump ports; test into a bucket |
| Loud hum, no flow | Impeller jammed or pump worn | Power off; check for debris in pump; schedule service if blades wobble |
| Suds puddles, damp load | Too much detergent; unbalanced load | Run an extra rinse; spin small batches; dose HE soap correctly |
| Sink backs up | Clogged home drain | Test into a bucket; if fast there, have the standpipe cleared |
4) Clear The Pump Filter Or Coin Trap
Front-loaders collect lint, buttons, and coins in a twist-out filter cup. Top-loaders without a visible cup may use a clean-out inside the drain hose or at the pump inlet. With the tub drained (Step 2), place a pan, turn the filter counterclockwise, and rinse the screen. Spin the filter’s O-ring between fingers so it seats flat when you reinstall it. If your model lacks a serviceable filter, feel inside the pump ports for obstructions with the power disconnected.
5) Try A Drain/Spin Test
Close the door or lid firmly and select Drain & Spin. Listen: a healthy pump makes a steady hum and water should rush out in seconds. If the pump hums but little water moves, the impeller may be jammed or the outlet blocked. If the pump is silent, the washer may be waiting for a lid switch or door lock signal.
6) Inspect The Lid Switch Or Door Lock
Many machines won’t drain unless the safety switch confirms the lid or door is shut. Gently press where the lid meets the frame and retry the cycle. On front-loaders, look for error lights and try a power reset. If a lock is stuck with water inside, drain via the hose in Step 2, then try again.
7) Rule Out A Plumbing Blockage
If water backs up into the sink or overflows the standpipe, the home drain may be restricted. After you’ve cleared the washer’s hose and filter, run the drain hose into a bucket; if the washer empties quickly there, call a plumber to clear the standpipe instead of forcing chemicals through the system.
8) Balance Loads And Tame Suds
Heavy, absorbent items can pin water in the tub. Re-distribute the load and remove a few bulky pieces. Use HE detergent and measure it; over-sudsing slows draining by foaming at the pump and confusing water level sensing.
Fixing A Washing Machine That Won’t Drain Safely
Safety comes first every time you open a service panel. Unplug before hands go near a pump, motor, or wiring. National agencies echo this advice; the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission’s electrical safety tips boil it down to a simple rule: if an appliance acts up or shocks, disconnect it and have it checked.
Smart Tips While You Work
- Keep the machine tilted back slightly when removing the front toe-kick on a front-loader. That prevents a fresh trickle from the filter cavity.
- Stuff a towel under the pump before loosening a clamp; small screws like to bounce into the base.
- Take a phone photo before you pull any hose or wire off a part. Reassembly goes faster.
What A Healthy Drain Sounds And Looks Like
On a proper drain, water gushes for 20–60 seconds, then eases as the tub empties. The pump tone stays steady. If the machine stops and starts several times with no real movement of water, suspect a jam at the filter or an airlock caused by a hose buried too deep in the standpipe.
When The Door Stays Locked
Front-load doors lock to keep you safe while the pump runs. If the washer won’t unlock after you’ve emptied water via the hose, leave it unplugged for a few minutes and try again. Some models include a manual pull release behind the lower panel near the lock. Pull until you hear the click.
Front-Load Versus Top-Load: What Differs
Both designs drain through a pump and hose, yet the service points and habits that cause trouble vary. Use the table for a quick comparison, then follow the notes beneath it for extra detail.
| Step | Front-Load Details | Top-Load Details |
|---|---|---|
| Manual drain | Use the small hose behind the filter door | Bail water with a scoop; some models offer a “Cancel/Drain” combo |
| Filter access | User-serviceable cup; twist out and rinse | Often no cup; obstructions sit in the pump inlet or hoses |
| Lid/door safety | Electronic door lock must signal closed | Mechanical lid switch or magnetic sensor must click |
| Common culprit | Coin, hairpin, or lint ball in the filter | Hose pushed too far down the standpipe creating siphon |
| Best practice | Clean the filter every 1–3 months | Verify hose height and secure with a U-clip |
Extra Notes By Type
Front-load habits: Empty pockets, use a mesh bag for tiny items, and clean the pump filter on a schedule. The LG how-to shows the exact panel and steps many brands share.
Top-load habits: Keep the drain hose at the recommended height and avoid cramming the standpipe. If the hose end sits underwater in a utility sink, siphoning can pull water back after a cycle.
Taking A Washing Machine That Won’t Drain From Stuck To Sorted
Once you’ve cleared the hose and cleaned the filter, repeat Drain & Spin with the drum empty. Watch the discharge end. Strong flow means the pump and control are doing their job, and your earlier obstruction was the cause. Weak flow or repeated pauses point you back to the filter cavity, pump inlet, and hose path for hidden debris.
Clues That Point To A Failing Pump
- Growling or squeal from the pump body even with a clean filter.
- Visible wobble in the plastic impeller blades or broken fins.
- Intermittent runs that improve when you tap the housing—then regress.
Those signs usually mean the pump is worn. At that stage, it’s time for a replacement, not repeated cleanouts.
Signs The Issue Lives Outside The Washer
- Standpipe overflows even when the washer discharges well into a bucket.
- Multiple fixtures in the area drain slowly.
- Sewer odors or gurgling near the laundry sink.
When those patterns show up, focus on the home plumbing. A pro with a camera or auger can clear the obstruction and stop the backflow.
When To Stop And Book Service
DIY covers a lot, but not every scenario. Pull the plug and schedule a technician if any of these occur:
- Repeated tripping of the breaker, sparks, or a burning smell.
- Leak inside the base or water reaching electrical parts.
- Door stays locked with water and the manual release fails.
- Drain pump hums loudly but won’t move water after you’ve cleared obstructions.
- Error codes persist even with the filter clean and hose corrected.
While you wait, don’t leave the washer powered. Safety groups advise disconnecting troubled appliances; see the CPSC’s guidance linked in the safety section above.
Keep Drains Flowing: Simple Prevention
A few small habits prevent most no-drain calls and keep your laundry space tidy:
- Empty pockets and shake out pet hair magnets like blankets.
- Measure HE detergent; overdosing foams at the pump and slows draining.
- Clean a front-loader’s pump filter every season, or monthly if the household is busy.
- Seat the drain hose with a U-clip and leave breathing room in the standpipe.
- Run a tub clean cycle with hot water to dissolve residue.
- Give the hose and filter a quick check after washing small rugs or heavily linted loads.
If you want brand-specific diagrams and dimensions for hose placement, model-specific error code notes, or a printable checklist, bookmark Whirlpool’s washer not draining support page. The guidance aligns with what you’ll find in many manuals and pairs well with the LG filter walk-through linked earlier.
What Not To Do With A No-Drain Washer
A few moves can make a small clog much worse. Skip these:
- Forcing the drain hose deep into the standpipe. That creates siphoning and traps air, both bad for drainage.
- Running repeated cycles with a full tub. Motors and locks aren’t designed to fight a blockage for long.
- Pouring strong chemicals into the washer. Those products can attack rubber parts and splash back during service.
- Prying the door open on a front-loader full of water. Use the emergency hose or manual release instead.
Grab-And-Go Kit For Fast Fixes
Keep a small kit on a shelf near the laundry so you’re ready the next time a sock goes missing and ends up at the pump:
- Shallow pan or oven tray for controlled draining.
- Old towels and a sponge.
- Long-nose pliers for coins and pins.
- Small flashlight or headlamp.
- Bucket and short length of clear tubing for quick tests into a sink.
- Zip ties or a U-clip to secure the hose at the right height.
After A Move Or Remodel: Extra Checks
New installs change the drain path and sometimes expose issues that never showed up in the old location. Confirm the standpipe height is within your model’s range and that the hose end isn’t taped to the pipe. If the installer pushed the hose past the U-bend, bring it back so the tip sits just inside the pipe opening. Verify the hot and cold taps are open and supply screens are clear; weak fill can leave wash water and confuse sensing.
Vibration from a move can shake debris loose. Give the pump filter a clean day one, even if the washer seems fine. If you have a top-loader with no serviceable cup, disconnect power, remove the rear panel, and feel both sides of the pump inlet for grit or a hairpin. Finish with an empty Drain & Spin into a bucket. Strong, steady flow means plumbing is ready for laundry.