Windshield Wiper Won’t Move? | Quick Fix Roadmap

Fast Diagnosis Checklist

Start with the simple wins. Work from outside the car to the electrical bits. The steps below keep you safe and save time.

Symptom	Likely Cause	Quick Test
No movement at all	Blown fuse, dead motor, bad switch	Key on, wiper set to low; listen for motor hum; check fuse
One arm moves, one stays	Stripped spline or loose nut	Lift cap at arm base; tighten nut; mark position and retest
Arms try, then stall	Frozen blades, jammed linkage, low battery	Lift blades off glass; check for ice and debris; run engine
Moves only a little	Seized pivots or worn linkage	Hand-assist with ignition off; feel for rough spots
Works on high only	Faulty resistor or control module	Switch between speeds; note which settings fail
Clicks from cowl	Broken transmission or binding	Open cowl trim; inspect link rods and bushings

Windshield Wiper Won’t Move: Causes And Fixes

This section explains the usual failures, how to confirm each one, and what to do next. You will see quick tests, safe work tips, and repair paths.

Frozen Blades Stuck To The Glass

Ice glues the rubber to the windshield and loads the motor. That strain can pop a fuse, strip a spline, or bend a link. Lift the arms gently and clear the ice first. Use a plastic scraper on the glass and a de-icer spray on the blades. Do not run dry wipers on heavy frost; the motor can overheat and the rubber tears fast.

Road clubs warn against yanking on stuck blades or pouring hot water on the glass. Use a proper de-icing method and let the defroster warm the base of the windshield before you try the switch again. See the winter driving tips on AAA for safe thaw routines.

Blown Fuse Or Bad Relay

The fuse protects the circuit when the motor draws too much current. A locked blade or seized pivot can trip it. Find the wiper fuse in the cabin or engine fuse box. The lid diagram or your owner’s manual shows the slot. Pull the fuse with a puller and inspect the element. A break means it is blown.

To confirm, test with a multimeter across the fuse blades. A good blade fuse reads near zero ohms; a blown one reads open. If it blows again right away, stop and look for a short or a jam before replacing parts. A sticking relay can also block power; swap it with another identical relay from a non-critical circuit to compare behavior.

Loose Or Stripped Wiper Arm Splines

Each arm clamps onto a splined post. When the nut loosens or the splines round off, the motor turns but the arm stays put. Lift the small cap at the arm base, mark the arm position on the glass with tape, and snug the nut. If the arm still slips, pull it off and inspect the splines on both parts. A worn arm is cheap and easy to replace. If the post splines are gone, the pivot assembly needs work.

Seized Pivots Or Worn Linkage

Age, dirt, and water make the pivot bushings tight. The motor tries, the rods flex, and you hear clicking or a dull thud. With the key off, move each arm by hand. Smooth travel means the linkage is free; stiffness points to seized bushings. On many cars the cowl panel lifts with a few clips, giving access to the transmission and link rods. Clean, lube with a light synthetic grease, and replace cracked plastic bushings. If a rod has popped off, a new bushing kit brings it back.

Failed Wiper Motor

Motors wear brushes and commutators. If the fuse is good and the switch sends power, the motor may be the culprit. Listen near the cowl while a helper toggles the switch. No sound often means no motor action. Backprobe the motor connector for power and ground with a test light. Power present with no motion points to a bad motor. Many assemblies come as a motor plus transmission; match the part number and park position.

Faulty Switch Or Speed Control

The column stalk feeds signals to a resistor pack or a small control unit. If high works and low or intermittent does not, the resistor or control path is suspect. Check for corroded contacts in the stalk and loose plugs behind the trim. On later cars a body control module times the wipes; scan tools can read faults. If the module sets a code, follow the factory flowchart before buying parts.

Low Battery Or Weak Charging

Low system voltage drops motor torque. If the car cranks slow and lights dim at idle, test the battery and alternator. Start the engine and switch on headlights and blower. If the wipers now move better, charge the battery and check belt tension. Corroded ground straps at the body or cowl can also starve the motor. Clean metal to metal, tighten fasteners, and apply dielectric grease.

Debris Jammed In The Cowl

Leaves, twigs, and pine needles gather under the cowl grille. They bind the link rods or jam the arms on their path. Remove the cowl screen and vacuum the channel. Clear the drain holes so water can exit. Fit new cowl seals if they crumble; fresh seals keep spray away from pivots and connectors.

Park Sensor Out Of Position

Many motors use an internal park switch to stop the arms at the base of the glass. If the switch misreads, the arms stop mid-sweep or refuse to start from a parked angle. Reset by cycling the motor with arms removed, then install the arms at the marks. If the switch never shows park, the motor assembly may need replacement.

Safety First And When To Stop

Clear sight is non-negotiable. Do not drive in rain or snow with dead wipers. If the fault appears while moving, slow down, pull over in a safe place, and deal with the cause. Check blades for ice, look for a loose arm nut, and try a fuse if you carry spares. If you smell hot wiring or see smoke, shut off the switch and disconnect the battery negative until the fault is found.

If you suspect a model-specific defect, search your VIN in the NHTSA recall tool. Some makes have wiper recalls or updated parts that fix water intrusion, linkage wear, or motor faults.

Step-By-Step: Quick Fixes You Can Do

1) Free The Blades

Lift the arms, knock off ice, and clear slush from the lower windshield. Run the defroster on high for a few minutes. Wipe the rubber with washer fluid or de-icer. Set the switch to low and watch for smooth motion.

2) Check The Fuse

Locate the wiper fuse. Pull and inspect. Swap in a spare with the same rating. If the new fuse pops, stop and find the mechanical bind before trying again.

3) Tighten The Arm Nuts

Mark arm position. Snug the nuts to spec with a quarter turn past snug if you lack the torque sheet. Refit the caps. Test again. If the arms drift up the glass, replace the slipping arm.

4) Inspect The Linkage

Remove the cowl panel. Watch the rods while a helper cycles the switch. A rod that jumps or a bushing that walks off the stud needs a new bushing or rod. Grease the pivots and reassemble.

5) Test The Motor Feed

Backprobe the power and ground at the motor with a test light. Light on but no motion points to the motor. No light points to a relay, stalk, or module fault. Fix wiring issues before buying a motor.

Costs, Time, And Skill Levels

Here are ballpark ranges so you can plan the repair and pick the right approach for your garage day.

Issue	Typical Parts Cost	DIY Time
Frozen blades, de-icing	$5–$15 (de-icer, scraper)	10–20 minutes
Blade replacement	$12–$40 pair	10–15 minutes
Fuse or relay	$3–$20	5–15 minutes
Wiper arm	$25–$80 each	15–30 minutes
Bushing kit	$10–$30	30–60 minutes
Linkage assembly	$60–$180	1–2 hours
Motor only	$80–$220	1–2 hours
Motor + transmission	$120–$300	1.5–3 hours
Switch or module	$40–$250	1–2 hours

Prevention Tips That Save Repairs

Pick Better Blades

Beam blades shed ice and last longer in tough weather. Replace at the first signs of chatter, streaks, or splits in the rubber edge.

Use The Defroster Before The Switch

Warm the glass for a few minutes on cold mornings. A short wait beats a stripped arm or a blown fuse.

Keep The Cowl Clean

Vacuum leaves each season. Make sure the drains run free. A clean channel protects the linkage and keeps water off the motor plugs.

Top Off Washer Fluid

A soaked windshield reduces drag on the rubber and keeps grit from scoring the glass. Carry a jug in the trunk during winter.

Protect The Arms In Snow

Lift them off the glass before a storm if your area allows street parking. Use a soft brush to clear snow before the first wipe.

When To Call A Pro

Book a technician when you see smoked wiring, melted connectors, or water inside the motor housing. Cars with smart body modules may need coding after motor or module replacement. If your car is still under warranty, let the dealer handle it so the coverage stays clean.

Bottom Line And Next Steps

Start with ice and arm nuts, then fuses and relays, then linkage and the motor. Keep vision clear, fix the root cause, and you will bring the wipers back without guesswork.