When wiper operation stops, start with fuse, relay, switch, motor, linkage, arms, blades, and ice binding.
Nothing kills driving confidence like dead wipers in rain or spray. The good news: most failures trace back to a simple electrical fault, a seized linkage, worn arms, or blades stuck to the glass. This guide gives you a fast triage, clear checks you can do at home, and the fixes that get visibility back without guesswork.
Quick Diagnosis Flow
Use this at-a-glance path to zero in on the fault. Work top to bottom until the symptom matches your case.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | What To Check First |
|---|---|---|
| No movement, no sound | Blown fuse, failed relay, bad switch, open circuit | Fuse panel map, swap a like relay, verify switch power |
| No movement, motor hums | Seized linkage, stripped splines, loose arm nuts | Wiper arms tight on shafts, linkage play under cowl |
| Moves slowly on all speeds | Weak motor, high friction pivots, voltage drop | Battery/ground voltage at motor, pivot lubrication |
| Works only on high speed | Faulty resistor in motor, bad intermittent module | Low/med circuits at motor connector, module plug |
| Stops mid-sweep, won’t park | Park switch inside motor, control module fault | 12V at park circuit, scan for body control codes (if equipped) |
| Chatter, streaks, misses arc | Worn blades, wrong size, bent arms, glass contamination | Blade condition/length, arm angle, clean glass |
| Frozen after snow/ice | Rubber bonded to glass, iced pivots | Defrost, de-ice fully before switching on |
| Washer sprays, wipers dead | Separate fuse/relay for wiper motor, switch issue | Motor fuse/relay, switch output to motor |
Why The Windshield Wipers Stop Working Suddenly
Wiper systems are simple: a switch signals a relay and motor; a crank and linkages move the arms; blades clear the glass. Any break in that chain stalls the sweep. A popped fuse cuts power completely. A weak relay clicks but won’t pass current under load. A worn motor spins slowly or not at all. Linkages seize from rust, or the arm splines round off so the motor turns while the arms sit still. Ice can glue rubber to glass and overload the circuit as soon as you toggle the stalk.
Automakers must meet wiper performance rules that set wiped area and operating speeds. Those requirements live in FMVSS No. 104, which covers cars, multipurpose vehicles, trucks, and buses. That standard explains why two speeds and reliable park function are part of every modern setup; if yours no longer meets those basics, treat it as a safety repair, not a convenience.
Step-By-Step Checks You Can Do In The Driveway
Set the parking brake. Switch ignition to ON. Keep hands clear of the arms and linkage while testing.
1) Free The Blades And Clear The Glass
Lift each arm gently and check that the rubber isn’t bonded to the windshield. If iced, run defrost until the rubber lifts cleanly. Wipe the glass with washer fluid or a glass cleaner to remove film. Many “dead wiper” reports end here because the motor was stalled by ice or sticky rubber.
2) Listen For Motor Clues
Toggle low, then high. No movement and no sound points to a power delivery issue. A steady hum with no sweep points to seized linkage or rounded splines. Intermittent starts suggest failing brushes or a weak relay.
3) Inspect Arms, Nuts, And Splines
Confirm the arm nuts are snug. If a nut is loose, the taper can slip. Mark the arm position on the glass with painter’s tape, run the wipers once, and compare. If the motor shaft moved but the arm stayed, the splines are likely stripped and the arm or pivot will need replacement.
4) Check The Fuse
Open the fuse box and find the wiper circuit. Replace a blown fuse with the same rating only. A new fuse that pops again signals binding or an electrical short that needs further diagnosis before parts shopping.
5) Do A Quick Relay Swap Test
Many cars use identical relays for non-critical circuits. If your fuse chart shows a matching part, swap the wiper relay with a known good twin, then test. If the wipers spring to life, buy a new relay and restore the original positions after confirming operation.
6) Verify Power And Ground At The Motor
Unplug the motor connector. With a multimeter, check that battery voltage reaches the correct pins on low and high settings, and that the ground path is solid. Voltage present with no motion points to a worn motor. No voltage points back to the switch, relay, or wiring.
7) Inspect The Linkage Under The Cowl
Remove the plastic cowl panel. Move the linkage by hand with the arms off. It should sweep smoothly with even resistance. Gritty or stuck pivots need cleaning and lubrication, or replacement if the bushings are worn. A popped link will dangle; that calls for a new bushing or a complete transmission assembly.
8) Park Function And Intermittent Mode
If the blades stop in random spots, the park switch inside the motor may have failed. If only intermittent mode is dead, a control module or resistor may be the culprit. On many vehicles the module is built into the motor, so one replacement solves both issues.
9) When The Washer Works But The Wipers Don’t
That split result often means separate fusing or a failed wiper relay. Confirm power to the motor while the washer pump runs. If there’s no voltage at the motor and the fuse is intact, the relay or switch path is next in line.
When Wipers Move But Performance Is Bad
Streaks, chattering, or a missed arc usually come from wear or setup, not electronics. Replace both blades together and match the lengths to your manual. Clean the glass with a dedicated glass cleaner and a fresh microfiber. If the blade flips or skips at the same spot, tweak the arm angle a few degrees or replace a bent arm. Seasonal changes can help: beam blades shed snow well; conventional frames can ice up along the hinges.
Most drivers see best results swapping blades twice a year, often spring and fall. That cadence lines up with testing from broad consumer sources and real-world shop practice. If your climate is hot or dusty, shorten the interval. If your car lives in a garage, you may stretch it a bit and still get a clean sweep.
Need a simple replacement benchmark and technique tips? Reputable guides suggest a six-to-twelve-month window, with quick monthly checks for tears and edge hardening. A practical seasonal routine keeps performance consistent through storms and road spray.
Simple Tools And Supplies
- Trim tool or flat screwdriver for cowl clips
- Ratchet and socket for arm nuts
- Digital multimeter and test leads
- Dielectric grease for connectors
- Glass cleaner and microfiber towels
- New blades matched to vehicle length and attachment type
Fixes By Fault, From Easiest To Deeper
Replace A Blown Fuse
Match the amp rating. If it blows again, stop and find the root cause. Common triggers include iced blades switched on, seized pivots, or an internal motor short.
Swap A Weak Relay
A relay can click yet fail under load. A like-for-like swap test is fast. If the symptom changes with the swap, replace the suspect relay and retest.
Re-Seat Or Replace Wiper Arms
Loose arms slip on the tapered shafts. Clean the splines, seat the arm, and torque the nut to spec. If splines are rounded, replace the arm and, if needed, the pivot.
Service Or Replace The Linkage
Clean and lube sticky pivots. If the bushings are cracked or a link has popped free repeatedly, install a new linkage assembly. Many come pre-greased and bolt in under the cowl.
Replace The Motor When Voltage Is Present But No Motion
Consistent power and ground with a dead or weak motor points to worn brushes or a failed internal park mechanism. A new motor restores speed range and park accuracy.
Maintenance That Prevents Repeat Failures
- Swap blades twice a year, or at the first sign of streaks or squeaks.
- De-ice completely before switching the stalk on.
- Top up proper washer fluid; avoid plain water in freezing weather.
- Wash the windshield regularly to remove oil film and grit.
- Lift arms during heavy snow to prevent freezing to the glass.
- Rinse winter salt from the cowl area so pivots and bushings don’t seize.
Seasonal blade changes paired with clean glass keep loads low on the motor and linkage. That habit reduces blown fuses and saves the park mechanism from fighting heavy drag.
Common Conditions And The Right Fix
| Condition | Fix | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| No motion, silent | Fuse and relay check, switch output test | If voltage never reaches motor, trace switch and wiring |
| No motion, motor hums | Linkage service or replacement | Arms off but shafts turn = stripped splines |
| Only high speed works | Motor or resistor/module replacement | Low/med circuits open inside motor on many models |
| Stops mid-sweep | Motor with failed park switch | New motor restores park accuracy |
| Chatter and streaks | New blades, clean glass, arm angle tweak | Confirm blade length and attachment style |
| Frozen after storm | Defrost first, free blades, then test | Switching on while iced can pop the fuse |
Costs, Time, And When To Call A Pro
Blades: minutes and a modest price for a pair. A relay or fuse: minutes once you find the panel. A linkage or motor: one to two hours for an experienced DIYer with basic tools. If water has entered the cabin fuse block or the stalk switch harness is damaged, book a shop. Electrical diagnosis beyond simple voltage checks can get time-consuming without wiring diagrams and a scan tool.
Safety Stakes You Should Not Ignore
Clear sight lines are non-negotiable. Road grit, spray, and sudden storms arrive without warning. Wiper performance rules exist to keep that risk in check, and they cover more than cars alone. If your setup can’t sweep reliably at both speeds or won’t park, it fails the spirit of the standard referenced above, and it needs attention before the next drive.
Reliable References For Deeper Reading
You can read the federal wiping system standard at the link above. For practical care and seasonal change guidance, see trusted consumer auto care sources that recommend checking blades monthly and replacing them about twice per year. Here’s one such plain-language guide from a widely used testing outlet on maintenance during winter storms and another from a national auto club on seasonal blade changes:
Bottom Line For Fast Results
Free the blades. Check fuse and relay. Confirm power and ground at the motor. Inspect linkage and arm splines. Replace blades and clean the glass. Work that list and you’ll either restore a clean sweep at home or arrive at the exact part a shop needs to change.